R32Abuser

Firstly, always do a search...All the information you require has been covered before. If you want to be smart, search more specifically in the "R33 Rb30 Conversion" thread. Read the RB30DOHC guide which is attached to the VERY FIRST POST in the previously mentioned thread. It runs through the basics, and once again, answers your questions in one way or another. Secondly, decide on what RB25 head you wish to run. If I had my time again, I would run with an RB25 Neo or RB26 head. Both of these run solid lifters and if I remember correctly, will allow you to choose aftermarket cams which have significantly more lift than R32/R33 RB25 DOHC heads. Depending on the cam profile choice, higher lift can (and in most cases will) yield a higher engine power output. Thirdly, run VCT. Theres no real excuse for not running it other than being lazy. You can even run the RB20 ECU and use a third party boost controller to activate VCT. There's no such thing as too much torque ...even with an RB30DET. As you said, injector type will depend on the manifold you wish to run. What manifold you use will depend on what head you run. So first things first, decide on your basics then worry about the specifics. Similarly, your CAS item and wiring will depend on the head you choose. The RB20 ECU unmapped with the RB20 AFM will run the motor for startup and "limping" around purposes only. Since the RB30 is breathing in a significant amount more air for the same RPM (all things being equal), the RB30 will max out the AFM and you will most likely hit "Rich and Retard" very early. Up to you, but for the sake of some dollars, I'd chuck it on the back of a tow truck and let the tuner run it up on the dyno and remap the ECU of your choice (PFC, NIStune, Link, Vipec etc.). Do some reading of the above thread. You will learn ALOT!

My only concern with going a 3.5" exhaust system (cat back) was that it would make it louder. That being said, Im not that concerned with the power level of my car ATM anyway. The car is more traction limited more than anything and is plenty fast for the street. I was thinking (pending packing/sizing restrictions) chucking the following on to replace the middle resonator: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=main&id=10009 Then, Ill see how it is after that. For the sake of around $100-150 for it plus installation, Im hoping it will do the job. Thoughts?

[quote name=ClutchBurndout- ' timestamp='1336864848' post='6354154] so he wants the fastest exhaust, with no noise? lol. you can only have one or the other (usually) ok this is what you want. Obveously you'r chasing power by looking at your setup, so obveously 3.5 or 4 inch is the go, or you can splurge on a twin system which is pretty much going to cost double. resonators (hotdogs) decrease drone, everyone should have one. baffled mufflers are going to slow you down, so go the big sports ones, and just get 2 of them. this should be a pretty quiet. With regards to going 3.5 or 4 inch system - there isnt an immediate need to go this route for the power level I am chasing. My current setup with the turbo I have has been shown to max out at around 300 ish RWKW on 98 fuel. I am currently making 281 RWKW on a lower reading dyno. Unless I change fuel to E85 (which I am not going to), the current exhaust setup has enough flow to suit. Going 3.5" is just unnecessary IMO. A twin system is going to shut the car up, but its also going to cost the earth to replace the current system. From what I have seen, using a single setup, it is possible to get it down to legal levels or below. It's just a question of the muffler/resonator size and packaging constraints. Which is why I raised the thread to get some clarification on why I am being told one thing by an exhaust shop and reading a completely different argument on here.

Varex mufflers are in contravention of the ADR legislation unless fitted from factory. R33's I believe had an option for a "valve" in the exhaust, but Im unsure whether this would warrant the use of a Varex muffler. In any case, I have a 32, which didn't come with any "valve" from standard; so its a no go for me.

Since visiting several exhaust places I have come across some conflicting arguments about what's best to quieten down my car to a legal level. First of all, on the exhaust side of things I have the following: RB 25/30 using an R32 RB25DE head on a forged bottom end - 9:1 Static CR Std Intake/exhaust manifolds, valves, etc. etc. 256deg/8.5mm IN/EX Tomei Poncams GT3076R Turbo Bellmouth dump and 3" front pipe combined Highflow cat (tubular design) with a number I cant remember of cells 3" pipe back to a ~4" magnaflow resonator Magnaflow resonator onto a 3" inlet 3" outlet Jun BL 5" Oval rear muffler with a single 3.5" tip In saying all this, the reason why I went with this setup was because 3 out of 3 well renowned/recommended exhaust shops here in Adelaide advised me to go with a middle resonator out to a big rear muffler. Currently the sound volume is definitely not legal. I'd approximate it at around 96 dB at 3-4000 RPM. This is comparing it to my older setup on my RB20DET (stock turbo, 3" turbo back, no middle muffler, rear cannon @ 97 dB). The current setup is somewhat droney, loud, and difficult to be inconspicuous unless I'm in 5th @ 60kph doing 1700 RPM. In saying this, its a hell of alot quieter than it used to be when I first got the new setup back with the old exhaust system. The consensus I get around here on the forums is to run as bigger middle muffler as you can, whilst keeping away from cannons/large tipped rear mufflers. I have recently read a recommendation to use as big a Borla/Hooker etc. muffler in the middle wherever it can fit. Generally speaking, your typical middle/rear muffler (without going into brands) relies on absorption method to dampen/absorb the noise produced. Whilst resonators rely on destructive interference of sound waves to reduce noise. Is there a reason why I was recommended to use a resonator as opposed to a conventional big middle muffler? Is my centre resonator too small to work effectively in my current setup? Any input is greatly appreciated as rather than spending the money AGAIN to help quieten it down, Id rather get it right... Cheers, David

Even considering going a Nismo twin plate. That said, what is the "bite" like? Small "window" of friction point?

got mine for about $1000 4100 lbs of clamping force. Plenty of clamp for my application - if anything its WAYYYYY overkill considering its a street car. Elite/Daniel, surely JB would have seen this? This has happened from day one, and he said that it would initially shudder but would come good after 1000km's.

Hmmmm mine definately shudders which is sent down my drive train to my diff. Subsequently, the backlash in the diff is sloppy as and all I hear is loud thuds if you sit on the clutch longer than a second. Clutch has done about 3-4000km's since new. Flywheel was machined by JB aswell. I thought it might be just a wearing in issue, but it would seem its not! Also, how does yours take up/grip? I've found mine goes from OFF to ON in a VERY small range of movement...

NYTSKY, assuming you have one, do you find yours shudders quite a bit?

Dobz - Yeah found it for $59 a bottle at Repco on clearance. NYTSKY - IIRC the sump I have is exactly the same as the Hi energy racing sump for the RB30 which are gated and baffled around the pick-up... not just an enlarged sump. Also comparing the items side by side, majority of the additional capacity is gained in increasing the sumps width, not depth. Therefore there would be no massive benefit in extending the pick-up as the oil starvation issue is being reduced via the gating and baffling.

Yeh as I expected. Since the pickup location has not changed, and the dipstick is as per stock, you fill the thing like normal. Just needed a confirmation. Just need to find somewhere which sells Motul 8100 Excess 5W-40 for cheap. Too bad I have to get 2 bottles worth...

Just after a clarification more than anything, I am running a Hi Energy style winged sump on my RB25/30DET and it has come the time to do my first 5000km oil change. Now, I assume that since the pickup is in the same position as on the RB30 SOHC, the oil level (as per the dipstick) will still be accurate? I should fill the engine with oil as per normal upto the full line? How I understand that the design of these sumps work is that they simply have the same profile of the OEM sump upto the oil pickup but are slightly deeper and wider overall than the OEM RB30 sump. Its this extra width and depth which gives you the higher capacity of oil.

Jez, To your knowledge, using a NISTune, can you disable and/or modify this feature? Its a complete pain in the arse on my car and makes the car drive like a bucket of shit when cold. Attached is my log file. This log file is with the car stationary and idling. You can see that as soon as I "blip" the throttle, the timing gets pulled from 40 degrees down to 10 degrees (at one point) and then shoots back up a moment later. Have you found a way to fix this? Or as Pete has wondered, is it "hard wired" into the ECU? Cheers, David ecutalk2142012.xls

IIRC I think the difference in the links is whether you go blade adjustable or fixed. Adjustable requires new links which are supplied. Fixed uses the standard links. I may be wrong, but that's what my experience showed and I was led to believe. Either way, Id suggest going with the upgraded heavy duty links anyway. They remove any preload in the system and do aid slightly in making the car feel a little more settled on corner entry. If those part numbers I gave you lined up with the ones on the website, grab a set and chuck them on...You won't be disappointed!

See this group buy which has since been closed - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/88141-r34-gtt-bilstein-whiteline-suspension/page__hl__sydneykid The Sway bar sizes are listed: Front; BNF24X (or BNF24Z) - 24mm Rear; BNR11X (or BNR11XZ) - 22mm I personally haven't felt this setup, however from what I've heard (and having the R32 GTST sydneykid group buy in my car) the handling is supurb. When you purchase these sway bars you receive new "D" bushes which are the bushes which clamp the sway bar to the car. Also included is a grease satchel for lubrication. Aftermarket links can be purchased from Whiteline directly. Shoot "Daleo" a PM on here. He should be able to get you the items you need Cheers, David

INBOX FULL Hey mate interested in Drift Teks Size? Width? Offset? Colour? Pic? Condition? Gutter rash? Cheers, David Will SMS aswell

Too bad SK no longer resides on this forum . The damper valving complimented the spring and ARB setup amazingly. I said to a mate the other day (as he complimented my SK setup in my R32 GTST) - You could always take a front and rear shock from someone who bought the SK shocks to a damper specialist with a shock dyno. Valve the shocks to mimic the damper curve of the SK units and you're done. Not hard. Just takes a little bit of R & D and most importantly money... Cheers, David

Sydneykid GB Whiteline/Bilstein Specs for R33 GTST Please note the part numbers listed are the Whiteline Part No / Catologue numbers. Either way, IMO, Sway bars are your biggest and best bang for buck handing modification to buy. As a bonus, they are an absolute piece of piss to install aswell!

Saw Vu on the Ninja tonight at Cafe De Villi's to pick up a speedo cable Thanks again! Now to pull it all apart to change it

^^^ +1

Nismo 1.5 or 2 way diff. Preferably to suit R32 GTST (5 bolt patter half shafts). PM or sms 0401 317 009

Dont worry, I've been on here since 2004 and been seen all of about once or twice.

Yup...all of these things about the 26 head were an afterthought for me. You can run bigger cams with less issues with a 26 head and overall the head has more potential to make big power. The extra deck height of a 30 makes it a pain to fit a 25/30 under the bonnet of a 32 GTST without modding the engine mounts because of the intake. Whereas using the 26 intake and ITB, life would have been so much easier As its been stated, chances are the 30DET will cost less to build than the 2.7 kit. IMO, I dont see the reason (except legality!!!) to build tough 25/26 bottom ends when it costs just as much to build a tough 30 bottom end. You get more "area under the power curve" via an RB30DET which translates generally to a faster car overall.

Its horses for courses IMO How is the car being driven? 100% street? Majority street (90% Street / 10% Track)? 100% track? All makes a difference when considering what avenue to go down... For the street, IMO torque, throttle response, and low down power off boost are the most important things. 99% of the time will be spent at <5000RPM unless you wish to lose your license, bring the wrong attention to yourself or get defected. Hence, having a car which has plenty of punch off boost allows you to take of from the lights at quite a pace, without having to look like a hoon "stalling" the motor up to get it off the line quickly. In saying that, IMO the RB30DET conversion is the better option. For the track; its a different ball game. All depends on what you're actually doing i.e. motorkhana, private track days etc. etc. If it were me, and I was doing motorkhana I'd still prefer the RB30 for the low down punch and other reasons stated earlier. If its for private track days the 2.7 kit might be a goer with regards to having a few extra rev's up your sleeve. However, as TiTan stated, the hydraulic lifters in your RB25 head is what will let you down. I built my RB25/30 using an R32 RB25DE head and my only regret is that I didnt use an RB26 or RB25 NEO head to being with. No real downside except for legality (looks-wise) and wiring.

+1 Keen to hear results