R32Abuser

+1 Need to do your homework with regards to cc'ing the combustion chamber, checking the deck height, piston pin height etc. etc. Most of these details you can get off SAU but its always best to check your build. If you just slap it all together and install it, you WILL run into issues i.e. detonation once its all going. Would suck to have to pull it all back out again and re-check. Engine building is an exact science and should be treated as such. My Q45 AFM is basically maxed out on ~ 5.05V for 280 RWKW on on my RB25/30DET & GT3076R 0.82 A/R. Was somewhat disappointed in this, considering it would have been easier to get a Z32 all setup. That said I did get it brand new for less than $100

Agreed you can work out the bar rate that is installed on the car etc. Thats not hard as all you need is the geometrical properties of the bar as you mentioned. Also agreed that you can work out the ARB M.R. based off on vehicle measurements. I also like to validate the above in a suspension modelling program Susprog3D or Optimum G. Has proved reasonably accurate so far on race cars... Just need to get round to doing it on my R32

To calculate all of this, you need a decent amount of geometry information from the vehicle in question. Aspects such as motion ratio (Anti Roll bar MR and wheel:shock MR) all need to be known to calculate the overall contribution. I've always planned to do this on my 32 GTST but have never found the time to do this...Sydneykid might be able to shed some light on this. However, he no longer operates on this forum... Firstly, sway bars ARE springs. In most cases (like in Skylines) they are torsion springs. I think there is some confusion with the wording being used here. Spring rate ~ The force input required to compress a spring a unit distance. I.e. N/mm = Netwons (force) required to compress that spring 1mm Usually when people refer to the "spring rates" of a vehicle you talk about the stiffness of the springs which sit around the shock (aka ride springs). These items dictate the ride stiffness of the vehicle, but also add to the overall roll stiffness of said vehicle. Wheel Rate ~ The force input required to displace the wheel a unit distance. I.e. N/mm = Newtons (force) required to displace the wheel upwards 1mm. This value is a combination of the vehicles roll stiffness and ride stiffness. Sway bars are a common, incorrectly used replacement name for Anti Roll Bars (ARB's). ARB's affect the roll stiffness and consequently the overall wheel rate of a vehicle on a common axle during a roll event/single wheel bump. ARB's do not affect the "spring rate" or front/rear spring rate balance of the vehicle when both wheels on a common axle are displaced the same distance, in the same direction. As GTSBoy states, drive over a bump with both wheels - the ARB contributes zero stiffness to the wheel rate. Drive over the same bump with one wheel and the wheel rate is altered. Although ARB's will not affect the wheel rate in a perfect world situation (double bump/droop), any dips, bumps, crannies etc. will caus the ARB to affect the wheel rate. This is why you don't want to go to stiff an ARB as the stiffer you go, the more the car will want to pull/follow these deviations in the road surface (aka "tramlining").

Simon, You running E85 I assume? I also think it will be a tad small. That said, Im curious to see how much boost you can screw into it and the number it will make. Dont think I've seen anyone use that turbo on a 3L bottom end on here but I could have just skimmed over the result. FWIW I'm running a GT3076R 0.82 A/R and I have 1 Bar (14.7 psi) @ 2950RPM and ~1.2-1.3 Bar (~18-19 psi) by about 3200-3400. On Jaustech's dyno, I made 281 RWKW but was out of AFM and fuel (need to do direct rewire of my Bosch 040!!!). Bare in mind, this is all on BP98. See below... http://www.skylinesa...pgrade-all-dyno results/page__view__findpost__p__6259379

Depends on what you're after.... Response or Outright power/number? For me, Im after response. In saying that, I would go the 264° / 9mm option. What head are you using out of curiosity? RB26? What turbos etc.? All of the above makes a big difference when selecting a suitable camshaft.

For starters, use a RB25 Neo head...do the VCT mod How much a built RB30 bottom end will cost is asking a very open ended question. Forged bottom end? High end components (CP, Carillo, Nitto, Weisco etc.)? All of this depends on how much you want to spend and what you need from the car. The RB30 thread has a wealth of knowledge in there. You just have to read it! In saying all of the above, ensure that you address oiling issues that all stock RB's have. Upgrade oil pumps (Jun, Nitto, Tomei etc.), install winged wet sump with trap doors etc, head oil drain modifications and appropriate oil restrictors. Have a detailed read of the following thread: http://www.skylinesa...ntrol%20in%20rb

At ~12V I already have issues with what sounds like the pump is "cavitating" with 1/4 a tank of fuel. Sydneykid talks about it in the following thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/91993-fuel-pump-direct-feed-rewire/page__view__findpost__p__1660416

Its just a shame that it isn't more readily available ALL over Adelaide. I hope with the increasing amount of flex fuel cars coming to the market that this will promote more servos to stock E85.

What he said!?

Washer bottle motors? working? Postage to SA 5064? PM me with details Cheers, David

As GTSBoy said, from what you have said I'd be looking at: AAC valve Thermostat Coolant channel in the cold start valve. Sounds alot like the problem is temperature dependent! IMO easiest for me to work on is the AAC valve. Hook it back up and see what it does in similar ambient temperatures. If its still carrying on, take it off, give it a clean (I believe there is a Tutorial on how to clean it properly), re-install, connect it back up and re-evaluate. If its still carrying on, then take the thermostat out and check its function via heating/boiling some water on a stove. Check its movement as the water gradually gets hotter and hotter (to a point where it will stop moving). Or you could do it like these blokes do on youtube Lastly, I'd be checking the coolant channels to the cold start valve. This is due to accessibility issues, but it will depend on your intake setup etc. Originally, I was getting my motor pulling timing (not to your extent where its like cold start) via the knock sensors. My sensors would falsely detect knock, pull timing accordingly and the car would feel all sluggish etc. I doubt that this is your issue, but something to keep in mind. The fix was to take the ECU to Pete at NIStune to disable the knock sensors in the ECU itself.

LOCATION?

I more than happy to pay quite a high amount. However, I want the job done right. First time. As the saying goes - poor man pays twice! I'll be sending you a pm

Surely there are more suggestions/trusted panel beaters in Adelaide? I have been suggested a painter, however he doesn't panel beat so I need a panel beater to remove the dent.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yunSRfnsVck&feature=youtube_gdata_player

+1 If you had gotten a garret, you would have been further out of pocket and in the same boat you are in now.

From this entire thread, you've come to this conclusion? The turbo is by NO MEANS your problem. There's obviously many other issues with your setup, supporting items and the work that has been performed on your car not being carried out correctly. This is why you've needed a whole 43 pages worth of thread to sort issues with your car. Im surprised you haven't been warned by now for previously rubbishing a company's product (proven to work!) and then blaming them again for not being able to sell your car. Sort your issues, THEN sell the car.

Hi all, Yes, I know that this topic has been started 100 times. And yes, before you say it I know that there is the workshop listing stickied in the SA section. However, none of the previous topics or the recommended workshops satisfy my query. In short, I have substantial damage to one of my rear guards (dent about 20mm deep about the size of a small football) right on the body line of a 32. Each thread I searched through had a recommendation for crash repairers of some type, quickly followed by a person coming along and saying "don't use XXXX. They're crap" or the like. As you could understand, this becomes frustrating as all my previous workshops I have used I have had issues with their work. I want the job done PROPERLY first time. Do it once, do it properly! Is there any recommendations which people can make (or PM me with!) about getting these problems with my car sorted? Cheers, David

Yup. There wasn't really anything I could think of on a Neo head/block that wasn't as good as (if not better!) than on a R33 RB25.

Neo bottom end has GTR rods from factory which are better (stronger) in design. Not really that important imo unless your running serious power but doesnt hurt. Neo top end (head) from what I (and many others on here) have seen/proven flows better and has a superior chamber design. Less prone to detonation, and overall will be able to move more air when compared to a R33 RB25 head. Obviously there are many variables to take into account. But when comparing apples with apples, the Neo head is a better option.

IMO: R34 RB25DET Neo + Decently sized turbo (GT28/GT30 or larger) + R32 GTST chassis Of course this is assuming you have all the supporting mods.

PM Sent with number.

I have a JB Full monty carbotic with 4100 lbs of clamping force for my RB25/30DET + GT3076R. Its drivable, but DEFINATELY not slippable off the line like a few other clutches I have driven. It also shudders like crazy if you do slip it. After all the hype about them on here, I have to say I was disappointed with the end result. Makes the car far less of a street friendly car. I was contemplating going a Nismo Coppermix twin plate or an NPC 10". But at 700-1900 dollar expense, it's something I dont want to do just now considering I need a new diff aswell.

My whiteline castor bushes couldnt get more than about 5-5.5 degrees. Sydneykid reckoned 6-7 degrees was the limit of these replacement bushes.If you're after more its best to go with a fully adjustable caster arm with a threaded shaft and rose joint (aka rod end) connection. Much more adjustment, just not ADR approved. IMO run as much castor as you can get away with. To a point!!! Caster promotes favourable cambering of the wheels specific to the corner (left hand bend - inside and outside wheels camber towards the inside of the corner) to promote higher lateral grip. However, There are a few disadvantages to running alot of caster. With symmetric geometry, the effect of caster in a left steer situation is to roll the car to the right causing diagonal weight transfer. This will generally lead to the car bearing more load on the right rear tyre, unloading the left rear. This leads to reduced traction when exiting corners.

My 30/25 got 165-170 across the board at an approximate static CR of 9:1. This was on a rebuilt forged bottom end though.