SLY33

I just fitted 'low' as opposed to 'super lows' (Lows are 1 inch lowered and super lows are 1.5) My front also didnt seem to lower as much as the rear. Whiteline state that lowering a 33 any more than 1inch will actually start to affect the cars handling in a negative way, which is why i only went the 'lows'. Apparently once you go past an inch, you will no longer have 100% suspension travel or something. (this doesnt include adjustable coilovers, as they can go quite low and still have the correct travel) So i gather this will be noticed only when cornering near the limit. ive enclosed an extract of the article. (The whole article is on whitelines site. www.whiteline.com.au) "The whiteline car... uses springs lowered around 25mm (1inch) If you expect good handling, thats all it can handle."

Yeah, as mentioned, it is for improved flow through the cooler. Rather than having incoming air smack into a flat bar or tube, it is more smoothly redirected through its cooling passages.

i have also considered the RB30 block road.. but if you really think about it, its gonna give you a stack of extra torque right? Especially down low and mid range. The problem is, even a decent modded RB25 will have traction probs on the street, while still making killer top end power. If you had an RB30 bottom end, and say 250rwkw, would you be able to get traction?! This only became apparent after riding in whatsisnames car. when it had 230ish at the rears, 1st and 2nd gears needed serious throttle controll to stop the rears baggin! Awesome. 2.5litres is enough for street -i reckon:burnout: - i dont think his car has any head work done to it? Definitly a reason not to bother with your 30 bottom end. This has to be a great thing about skyline RB motors in general - you dont so much as have to remove the rocker covers let alone the head, to get SERIOUS street power.

dude, i had exactly your problem. When you got the cash, what to get!!? i considered 180's, 32's, 33's mainly. I looked at a few 180's, but dude, you just dont get the same interior quality that you get with a skyline. And your just paying extra for what is essentially silvia with different panels. (no offence to s13 drivers, as i like these cars! but anyway, this is SKYLINES AU!!) between 32's and 33's, the 33 is a generation ahead and the interior shows it, being much larger and newer. In the engine department, you cant go wrong with 32 or 33. The RB motors are so sweet! and i reckon they are far more satisfying to wind out than the rougher sounding SR20. However, you really have to drive each model, as there is a big difference in off boost drivability between 32 and 33's. On the 32 plus side, you can reprogram the factory ECU for a cheap tuning alternative. Exterior is simply a matter of personal choice. All skylines look great. Dont worry about being common, as 180's are flooding in now that they are in demand. Imports are all gonna be common as they are so popular! And as V-meister said, they are still an icon! If your concerned with the shape of the 33 (some think they are too bulky) do what i did, and park a 32 and 33 one in front of the other, and check out their profiles, youll be surprised at how similar they are in size physically.. Its just the 32's more angular lines make it look smaller. I ended up going the 33, and have never looked back. Considering that there isnt much separating 32/33 in price these days, i would go the newer car. Just my opinion, hope this helps.

shit dude, that sounds DAMN cheap for a 97! if only i hadnt recently bought my series 1... and i didnt get it that much cheaper than what your asking!!!!

dude, i might be interested... You say your open to offers.. that wont work well with me as i wont offer much :lol: let me know what you want for them and we might go from there!

gee, i was told S2 had glass lens, which is why you dont see clouded s2 headlights, whereas lots of s1's have the annoying smokey plastic look?? was also told 750 to 800bucks for a complete headlight (x1)!! but hey, this import business is still so reltatively new... and there are too many people in the business that dont know their shit, yet give out "facts" to others. When soarers were first coming in i had one guy try to tell me you could get an 8 litre v10 in them... Thats the craziest ive heard!!:lol: hopefully i will never need to know the price of headlights!!! :burnout:

Hey matt (whatsisname), I'll be back in adelaide early december, would you give me a run against my lowly 200rwkw?! As im curious to see how much difference your extra power makes on the street! nevertheless, we'll have to get some good cruises going this summer! Cheers dude, -also like your dog analogy!

IJST8U Ive had some similar probs with mine when i first got it. Do you have a BOV? if youve got vent to atmosphere one, then that could be a prob causing the stalling. BOV's can cause little problems that might not even have you think about the valve itself! do you have a bleed valve?? if so try turning your boost down. it sounds like the stock ECU pulling timing to me. Mine did it when it was cold weather, like at night. It also did it just after i fitted a front mount intercooler. Apparently air was getting in from somewhere and confusing the ECU, causing power dropping off, then suddenly surging back on. Lastly, have your throttle position sensor checked out.. I had some really weird idle probs which were cured by a slight adjustment. Although im no expert at coil packs, i dont think it is those. For one your car is a 95. The fact that many hard driven 1989 32's are still firing fine shows their reliability, and i read that age is their main enemy. And you say it is worse in 4th/5th gear. To me this would indicate an air related prob -> =ECU is the cause. It also makes coil packs as the suspect even less likely. Also you say that the power comes back on and pulls like crazy. So the packs are delivering voltage to your plugs fine. If it were the coil packs, then multiple packs would need to be faulty for the car to "die in the ass". One pack maybe, but the chance more than one has gone is next to nothing. (if im wrong let me know!) Put it down to a faulty/confused ECU or an air leak. Thats most likely. You didnt say whether youd taken the car to anyone? rock up at a performance centre and ask their opinion, easiest way to go no expert myself, but have learnt a lot during my short time owning a line :burnout:

quote: im running a bovus maximus and yeah like GTST says my car also runs rich and stalls particularly after coming off boost and slowing to a stop. other than that, the sound is really nice and when i drive past bus stops, the chicks always look. ----------------------- Any BOV that vents to atmosphere will potentially cause the car to stall coming off boost (its very annoying, when i put my type 3 on, i simply turned up the spring tension and it cured it, as a negative though, it made the BOV quieter at lower boosts, as the spring was now too tight). This is coz they are AFM equipped. -When you boost up "x" amount of air is sucked passed the AFM, and the computer supply's "x" amount of fuel for that air. -but when you back off, most of that air is released from the inlet tract, and never makes it to the manifold to mix with the extra fuel provided. The result is a state of temporary richness as the car comes down to idle, which causes the stalling. Therefore:- vent to atmo BOV's confuse the AFM and stock ECU. I feel the need to state these facts as it took me time and frustration to figure it out, being new to the turbo game.

Anyone drop their comp. ratio to 8.5:1 in order to run more boost? eg like JMS's red 33, using a thicker head gasket. How does it drive off boost? Does it significantly effect drivability at low speeds and thru traffic etc?? Cheers SLY

Dude, that sounds like a crazy ride! you had it down the quarter? Sounds like awesome stuff... What compression ratio are you gonna use when you pump up the boost? What boost can be safely run with a std RB25 (forgetting the ceramic turb wheel on std turbos) I know that a simple head gasket change can drop comp down to 8.5:1, allowing more boost, but i dont like the idea of losing off boost drivability, a factor that made the 33 a more attractive buy to me than the 32. Will 8.5:1 comp ratio on RB25 make it drive like an RB20 off boost? I'll post this one as a new thread. SLY

Interesting about the older ECU's. And yeah, the tuner thing too. Yep. Stock turbo. Im not sure about the stock AFM or fuel pressure reg, but im pretty sure about 230rwkw. He had cooler, exhaust, intake, cam gears, basically all the available bolt on's and a good tune. Yes, the car was a freak. Well wasnt there a 33 at the recent tilbrooks dyno day that did 204rwkw on a stock ecu and basic mods? I wish i had the other details about the 230rwkw car, but i know his name was Leon, a big asian guy. Anyone from adelaide know him?? This power was made some time ago too. Think it might have been sold, i will see what else i can dig up. SLY

Dude, thats taking it a bit far- thats like comparing a mandarin to an orange. Its more like a small orange (Mtech) to a slightly larger and sweeter orange that costs a bit more (FC). If you want an orange, you will enjoy them both (btw, i just ate an orange, hence my analogy. And it was a bit smaller than I usually buy ) Well im not arguing about map specifics or maths, you obviously know more than your avg consumer, including myself, about that department. Im just relaying my first hand experiences to help others make a decision on which road they'd take. I could've really used this thread when i was ECU shopping! Just for the record, Tilbrooks push the FC. I dont think they even sell MicroTech. Even so they can obviously play with it well enough to pump out extra kw's such as in Matts 33! -Merli, just out of curiosity, what ECU are you using? -and lets not turn this into the afforementioned ECU war! Cheers, SLY

Thats probably the nicest 4 door ive seen dude. While they arent as popular, theres gotta be something in having the best one around.

it depends on the kit to some extent. I reckon ALL the skyline colours are awesome. White does look very sharp, but on a std series 1 with the small front bar, doesnt really look the best in my opinion. Black looks MEAN! with any kit, but yes, black gets dirty like nothing else.... Silver is a wicked colour on ANY car. It wears dust nicely, and looks great. Wine red, when in good condition, has an awesome gloss to it. Gun grey, like mine!, wears dust extremely well, is quite subtle on the road (this can be good if you dont want too much attention!) But also has a toughness about it. Those are the most common colours? theres also a bluish color yeah? I originally wanted white, but when you go looking to buy, its not the colour that really sways you, its the condition of the car and its price. You cant turn down a good buy just coz its not the colour you want, especially when ALL the colours look wicked!! GR33DyMANGO, white series 2 are nice, but a clean black series 2 looks bloody awesome!! but if its for a daily driver, then white is the better choice. VERY easy to find also!!

how did you end up with a set of headlights?! And are they the series 1 plastic jobs, or the nice glass ones from a series 2?

thats interesting about the piping theory, as mine only made the sound after the FMIC went on. I reckon i have the answer though :- How about the fact that with all the new piping and a big cooler core, you have more than doubled the volume of air in the inlet tract, so this extra air, if not let out by the BOV, will have to work its way back out through the turbo (flutter) and out the air filter, just as classic reversion!? Thats why most skylines flutter at low boost, as the pressure was not high enough to trigger the blow off, and hence, puh puh puh puh puh puh(flutter).... This is the sound that VL turbos WITHOUT BOVs make really well! Exstatic, Are you saying that the factory BOV's are adequate? or that you dont need a BOV at all?

Risto when i was running 10 psi on my 33, i hooked up a second hand but nearly new Turbosmart Type 3 (so called "supersonic") This is said to be one of the loudest around. Even at 10psi it was still nice and loud. They often come up in the trader. Mine cost 200 bucks. I thought the quality was fine, and they look tough, with a nice fat trumpet. I found that just going up to 12psi makes the thing sound crazy! There is one for sale in the classifieds forum, as new, for only 280 bucks.. If i were you id buy that. Its also the current shape Anodised housing, they look real nice :uh-huh:

GiJO, Cheers for posting that table! Getting back to resolution, The table actually shows: Microtech 500rpm Vs "480"rpm for the FC 20rpm difference, not the 100rpm difference first indicated by someone. Cmon guys, that is insignificant on a tuff streeter!! I dont know why they use a MAP sensor!? Motec are really the kings, and they use MAP dont they?! The MAP gives you a bit more freedom with your blow off valve, as there is no sensitive AFM to confuse... But hey, if micro tech offered an AFM option it would be great for those concerned about fuel consumption. Someone with a LT12 please do a decent test!! as i wont be driving my car for a while! (its in Adelaide, im in Sydney at the moment) SLY

Merli, I spoke to some big name tuners before purchasing my MicroTech, Tilbrooks for the FC and RPM for the Mtech, and thru all the questions i asked them about both computers, tuning resolution was never mentioned. I dont know why it didnt come up, but it would seem that if the microtech was at a 'significant' disadvantage over the FC in this area, i would have been told this by Tilbrooks'?? You said it doesnt matter whether WE can tell the difference in load points, but surely it does! Say the tuner prefers an FC, but the end result is the same, and WE the drivers cant tell the difference, then why spend extra money on load points you wont even notice? I like the point whatsisname made about the stereo with the functions you never use and probably dont need- very good analogy! I dont think your particular analogy is that accurate - 8V pre outs vs 1V pre outs. In this case i think its more a case of 45Wx4 vs 50Wx4!! that works out 1 or 2 Watts RMS. You wont be able to tell the difference.

GiJOr33, to my knowledge, the MTX12 and LT12 are the same computer. Just that the LT12 is the new Plug and Play version for the R33 GTS-t, so if you went the Mtech, the LT12 is what you'd run, like myself and whatsisname. Also i believe freebaggin is running a LT12 (is he the one with the black R33 in adelaide??!) If so, then it is him that reported only a few litres per 100kms increase in fuels consumption. Quote: "I don't like the sound of 100km a tank drop in fuel economy. Is that a side effect of the MAP instead of the AFM setup? or does it just relate to the microtech?" Like i mentioned before, 100km loss per tank sounds excessive. The extra fuel thats used is a result of the MAP vs Airflow Meter, as the AFM is more accurate.

hey, an adelaide boy. Me too. Go to RPM Performance centre or Tilbrook's. They'll sort you out for sure. whats your car look like? maybe ive seen it around?

If it only happens when you are taking hairpins on half a tank, then by fuel surge, you mean it all sloshes to one side of the tank when you take hard corners? and it still does it at low boost, which should eliminate the fuel cut defender as the problem... does sound strange. is it possible for the pump pickup to become exposed to air if you dont have a surge tank? (ive never seen inside a tank) Coz thats what it sounds like, only happening when you corner... Ive just had fitted an 044 myself, but have yet to take it for some punishing corner work. But with my old pump, i used to rip around the hills on empty and never had any probs hope you get it sorted, any big tuning house should be able to tell you why its doing it.

From one of Matt's Posts : "The only extra requirement is an inlet air temp sensor (fitted into piping before the throttle body) it's not needed but without it you don't get air temp correction." Does the air temp correction make lots of difference? By the sound of it, does it just increase or decrease the amount of fuel according to the temp and hence density of the inlet air??