SLY33

no oil cooler.

so guys, whos actually got Adj. cam gears, and what increase can be expected?

. . . . <------------ What a babe.....!:eek:

YEAH

I dont have an aftermarket wheel, but now that you mention it, last night we pulled off the wheel to take the dash apart, so we may have bumped or affected that plastic thing your talking about... The light comes on and off every now and then, but when you start the car it stays off, then after driving a bit comes on, then off, on etc.. How do you run the diagnostic?

dude, what car have you had for 15 years!?!?! jeez! Thats like, forever!

i am possibly in dude. Get them to 250 and im definitly in. See how much the one down from formula 1 is. I got that on another car and it was pretty good. And besides, i wont have this car in 5 years let alone 15!!!

Duncan, why dont you just go out at night and find out for yourself? dont tell me you dont redline your car

hi dudes, whats the deal with the HICAS light? Is it fine to leave it on? Does it just mean the HICAS wont work? If thats the case then i should leave it yeah? and not have to buy a HICAS disabler!? cheers

would rpm just give away their maps? Isnt that what they get paid to put into peoples cars?? Your welcome to my map, only mods ive got is FMIC, full exhaust, intake, bosch 044 pump, running 12psi, no pinging, 199rwkw. The tuning was actually done with the STANDARD FUEL PUMP believe it or not, and the 044 went in straight after. (dont ask me why, i think they forgot that i wanted the pump- i had to get them to put it in after the tuning) Ill be back in adelaide within a week, so maybe matt can extract the map out of my ECU. Or even better, wait till i go to Tilbrooks to get Martin to tune it, then get the map after that!! Bargain mate From what he did with whatsisnames car, im sure he can improve mine, as im not completely happy with the look of the current dyno sheet.. I got a few humps and dips that i reckon could be smoothed out.

Hi all. Just adding my 2cents on the microtech LT12. Megs, you love jumping on the microtech fuel consumption band-wagon, haha. I wanted to do city test, but was only in adelaide for 2 days, which were spent with foot to the floor, and driving in the most fuel consuming way possible. So i can report my absolute WORST CASE fuel consumption. It was 260ish km per a tank of 98 unleaded. And guys i seriously mean the car was flogged, as i was making up for lost time -in any case, my last performance car was a 355 stroker torana with a fat holley sucking avgas, so for me even if 260k's per tank was all i could get, id be laughing! Im going back for the summer, so ill be sure to do a propper test, and settle this fuel debate once and for all. 260k's a tank is bad, but i dont think its that bad considering how it was driven. What do the rest of you get out of a tank when giving it stick?? -you have to be giving it stick for the WHOLE tank! not just half or even most of it, before you go telling me you get like 350k's per tank of hard drivin or whatever! And Matt (whatsisname) any news on the LT12 upgrades to closed loop or quick lambda?

I'll give you a straight answer to your question. You will need a rising rate regulator if your car is producing over 215kw at the wheels. - this is when your injectors Duty Cycle are maxed out, ie cannot supply any more fuel. Also note that the standard fuel 'pumps' are only good for about 200 at the wheels max, and are not known for their reliability. All you need to know about the regulator is that it can raise the fuel pressure so that when your injectors are OPEN, more fuel will come out due to the higher pressure. You wont get any gains on a standard engine. Gains will only be realised if your injectors are too small to supply the required amount of fuel (which is around the 215rwkw mark). just beautiful!

Does anyone know the prices??!? please post. I assume as they are only just coming into the country, that no-one knows what these are like to drive on using street pressures??

Dude, Im speaking on the basis that the cars are being driven properly. But i know what your saying. There are a few tools out there that dont have a clue how to get going quik, and even change gears quick -and cant even drive with the pedal pushed ALL the way to the floor BUT $ does not make a car go faster, and Money aint a thing??!?! cmon man, that statement is a joke! Obviously you need to know how to drive. And money certainly IS a "thing" when it comes to going quicker. And when you went that 32, are you sure he was tryin? nah only joking, i know that with only those basic mods, the 200's are faster. Like that s13 that did me before he blew up. (not having a go btw!)

surely mine isnt the only line with the unlock switch by the drivers window controls?!! For those of you who find the auto door lock annoying, do you actually use this switch, or do you let your passengers fumble around trying to unlock their door themselves??! :shake:

in terms of what can be handled by these engines (SR vs RB) many ppl think SR's are tougher, because they have a good reputation. There are of course examples from both engine ranges that show high power from unmodified internals. Personally, the RB's are better. While the SR is a tough as nails little motor, and you can screw big power from them, they are a harsher sounding/feeling motor. The RB is just so smooth and refined at ALL revs from idle to 8grand, while giving you a sinister angry racey type of howl/scream depending on your zorst!! This is a big factor as to why i bought one! As to running SR's against RB's, with 160 at wheels, i just lost to an sr20 silvia with the SAME mods as mine, apart from him running more boost (no ceramic turbine to worry about.) Annoying as it is a cheaper car than mine! So yeah they are tough the SR's. Now i got 200 at the wheels, and the afforementioned SR silvia has blown its engine But at the end of the day, once you start modifying, whoever spends more will be faster. If you spend the same amount, they arent gonna be that far apart on the street. on another personal factor, i prefer the comfort, and classier style and better ride quality of the line (it is a more expensive car after all) to the more sparse 180's/silvias. -NB, Early s13 seats are the worst! Who likes em?!! no one ive ever met. And that early check trim.... cant compare that to the smooth velour of the line!! BOTTOM LINE IS:- S13=boy racer. Lines=boy racer with a bit more cash??!! and as said, they all nissans, they all awesome. Seeing as this is SKylines AUS, i should be pretty safe for leaning towards lines!!!

chalon, you took your import to a DEALER?! dude, if i BOUGHT a car from a dealer i wouldnt take it there for servicing (after the free services!) Everyone must know that dealers are more expensive than garages, and SO not necessarily better! Usually you get what you pay for. This isnt true with dealers as they do everything by "the book" ie a job will be listed as taking an amount of time, say 1/2 hour, and even if the job takes them 5 minutes, you will be charged the 1/2 hour price, and the dealer will give the mechanic a bonus. If you want a place that knows skylines, Tillbrook auto and dyno is your place. They arent the cheapest, but you dont want to skimp on your line and let some grease monkey do a backyarder job!

Oops, thanks for pointing that out! Im in sydney and my car is in adelaide- i guess i cant remember the hose! when i get back ill check which one it really was :D

I had this exact problem. Really pissed me off! had a petrol smell and it seemed the engine was pumping fuel thru even though it wouldnt start. What it turned out to be was a vacuum hose came off this thing here (in the picture attached) dunno what it is, but plugged it on and it went perfect straight away.

that retouched cruise shot looks sick dude! Do you make the cloudy dark background you use from scratch?? can you post a better pic of your cars wheels?

I was speaking to RPM perf centre a little while ago and they supply the koni adjustables. They are pictured and priced here: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/sk16.asp if you do some looking around, 1100 bucks for damper adjustable shocks is pretty cheap. The bilstiens are another BIG name, but they are still around a grand, and not damper adjustable. While i knew bilstein were excellent (standard on mercedes and other expensive cars) I wasnt sure about Koni's credentials, but then i found out that Koni shocks are factory OE on Lamborgini Diablos! So they gotta be decent!

I agree Kik-ass. Adding some rear fill can give you a great effect, and you tend to feel more "surrounded" by sound. On the other hand, i love the simplicity of some tuff splits up front and a phat sub in the boot. Easy to put together, no stuffing around with fades. One question id like to put forward to any experienced audiophiles- Ive had systems with rear speakers in the shelf and a sub in the boot, and the resulting pressure changes in the boot completely distorted the shelf speakers! ie the cones were reacting to the pressure from the sub. I find that leaving the rear speaker holes empty (covered with a grill) the subb works and sounds better. -im not talking about hatches. Anyone else have this problem in a line? as i havent put in my sub yet. I did notice some vents toward the rear of the shelf that communicate with the cabin air though.

if shocks are completely rooted, if you push on the car, it will bounce up and down until it gradually stops. But if a shock is just worn, which will be the case for most cars with a few years on them, then you wont be able to tell without a shock test from a suspension place.

im also in the same situation. My shocks arent "gone" but the car is a 1994 so nearly 10 year old shocks arent gonna perform that flash. Also if youve put in lowered springs, you should change your shocks to match the spring rate anyway. www.horsepowerinabox.com have some pretty decent Koni shockers that are adjustable. and for about a grand thats pretty good value. i believe non adjustable bilsteins are around that mark anyway, only a little cheaper.

i have the standard cat with its guts knocked out. Sounds really tuff. Have been told by a few people its the best sounding 33 they've heard . I used to think they all sounded tuff, but these days you get some funny exhaust notes getting around.