SLY33

They must make more than one core, coz mine is said to easily outflow 300kw.

I have what ur talking about on my car too. Go to the thread I/C Spray under the performance forum, on page one, i have posted a couple of pics of mine on my car. These are wicked coolers. Mine has been great. unless its a real hot day, you can go for a fang, pull up on the road side, and put your hands on the inlet and outlet cooler piping, and the outlet pipe is totally cold, while the inlet is quite warm! Its not scientific, but its satisfying I have been told by the ppl who sell them that they flow 30% better than a 33GTR core does, and they cool good too. This is coz they are a Bar and Fin core. Apparently the best of bar-n-plate and tube-n-fin. Official name is Hybrid Supercooler. Most people overlook them straight away coz they dont have a big name like HKS or Apexi, and coz they arent expensive so people think they cant be that good. But like Macka says, aussies have their shit together here.

yes, factory guages are shit. Mine dosnt work, im running 12psi and the factory guage only goes up to 7psi, but the needle rarely goes this high!! so hook up an aftermarket guage. realy easy to do, just plugs onto back of the manifold to get vacuum/pressure readings.

i had a REALLY annoying idle speed hunting deal going on with mine. A quick fiddle with the TPS and it was solved.

Thats a really good point, but i could swear it looks as if some liquid has dribbled down the INSIDE of the lens. Mine arent scratched or even foggy, just has what looks like a water mark or something that you cant clean off from the outside.

hi dude, this topic took me a while to get my head around when i first started playing with amps, but now wreak my knowledge!!! When you bridge an amp, each half of the amp sees "half" the load. So if you bridge a 4ohm sub over your 2 channels ( + terminal of one channel and the - terminal of the other channel) your amp will see a total load of 2 ohms. This is why you get doubled power output, as the resistance is less. This is ample power to run any half decent 12inch sub. But dude, your not going to use one amp per speaker for your front stage or rear fill! That is crazy, as you need no where near that amount of juice to get your mids and tweets cranking!! It is your sub that requires the power and is why people bridge amps to run them. -if you had a decent set of 6x9's or whateva connected to your sony amp in normal stereo mode (75w per channel is HEAPS of grunt) you would be sure to feel pain in your ears if you turned up the volume. Consider a decent modern high-po deck, say 50 watts MAX. This deck has about only 22Watts RMS, and these will still crank hard enough for most people. So 75 per channel is loads! Also your amp may be bridgeable, but you still need to know at what load it is STABLE at. eg it may be bridgeable but not 1ohm stable like RATTUS's amp, in which case if you load it like that you could smoke your amp.

actually they must be bigger than 5 1/4 coz thats what i had in there before and they were too small, and had a backing plate to fit them in. Anyone know exact size??

yeah i think your right... im not with my car at the moment but ive seen pics. Oh well, im gonna get those fat 6.5's in there somehow!!!

anyone know what diameter speakers bolt straight into r33 doors? I just bought some 6.5 inch mids to go in, then someone told me they are a bit too big.

do you have aftermarket temp guage? if not i was just wondering how you know your car is running a little warm? As once my car is warmed up, the temp guage just sits dead in the middle and never moves, even after long hard driving.

drift spec, can you PM me a mobile no. or something?? as its not uncommon for flights to be delayed, i might have to meet you guys on the run. as it stands the plane should get in at 7.20pm. So by the time i get my luggage, drop it home, quick catch up with the family, and warm up the 'line, i could be cutting it fine

I will be there dude, havent met anyone here but whatsisname! Matt you gonna come?? and how about freebaggin lachy?? guys, lets make it a good one!

Hey, sounds good, but who is going!? I fly back to adelaide that evening, so would be a great first night back.

i heard GCG were great and really good to talk to about upgrades, but when i rang i got this old dude who couldnt talk kilowatts, and couldnt give me a rear wheel figure on his st2 turbo rebuild!! I asked him about rwkw figures, and all he kept saying was his st2 turbo was good for 450hp. He couldnt be specific with me about boost either, so im glad you posted this A31. I like the power figure at the wheels, but at 25psi, thats way too much boost man. You cant run anywhere near that with the std head gasket. It sounds like their turbo is inefficient, and ive heard from others that they are a bit laggy too. Look at whatsisnames turbo. 257rwkw at 13psi!!! damn, thats great power for basically the same boost im running with my std turbo!!

i would say its not worth bothering to use a filter twice. Whats a filter, like 11bucks?! The oil system is your cars life-blood dude!!

Clint, i am very interested! How much am i looking at for bilsteins?? I know bilstein has a killer reputation. I think the Kings springs (lows) would be similar to the whiteline springs, as the hub-to-guard measurements are exactly the same. I dont think spring rate would vary by much, so they should go together well.

Clock winding is way too common. The drivers seat is a good indication as mentioned. Also the steering wheel and the gear knob, as they wear the most. Ive seen TOO MANY imports with completely worn steering wheels and gear knobs, very worn trim etc, only to see 50 or 60 grand on the odo- and the dealers seriously expect us to believe they are genuine k's! Maybe they believe it themselves.. A car with 50,000 genuine ks should be practically new. This is considering many imports with 90,000 ks can still clean up pretty damn well. Its a worry. Or you get a car in seemingly near new condition, that has a noisy timing belt indicating 100,000!! Bottom line is too many dodgy operators. Apparently it happens in Japan, and not by people here when they land.

Arent you supposed to change filter every oil change?!

what year car is it from? How did you come across it?

Im pretty fanatical about oil. I do mine every 2000kms of hard driving, or around 3000 of not so hard driving. But then i dont drive it that much, so can afford it easier I do it for peace of mind more than anything. Just like to know that the engine always has clean fresh oil.. MMmmm. :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: (Motul 6100 synthetic ~50-60 bucks for 5 litres i think. Have been using Purulator filters, but changing to the Hard Driver filters)

skylark, your on the money about the brake using vacuum thing. Problem has to be vacuum related. It can be real hard to locate very small leaks in the system tho. as lark said, is there a reason you pump the brake pedal?? Or you might just be fussy like me and think "i should be able to pump the brake pedal whenever i like, and not have any problems, this is a SKYLINE!!" :P :D

I just wore out some big dollar pads over 2000 kms After just buying FMIC, 044 pump, LT12, and extreme clutch, i got bugger all cash left. I didnt realise all these decent pads were hundreds of dollars a set (front only!) So im going a set of Bendix Metal Kngs all round. 70bucks for the fronts, WOOHOO!! bargain. haha Ill let you konw how they compare to the big dollar pads. Should be interesting.

What shocks are suitable for the lowered Kings springs?? I need a new set to match the new spring rate, (im using LOWS), and my original shocks are probably pretty worn). I know there is a huge range of adjustable coil overs, but theres no way i wanna spend 3grand on a set of these. (i also dont want a second hand set). are there any cheap "new" alternatives, such as an aussie product? I was after a set of adjustable KYB SS's, as used on HPI's project R34, but i cant seem to find anyone to get them for me, also have no idea how much they cost. I want something adjustable, so when im at the strip i can go softer for better launching. -Does this work?? or is the softer setting on these types of shocks still pretty firm?? If thats the case, i dont really need adjustables I know that stacks of skyline owners use Kings Springs, so let us know what you guys are using. Cheers, SLY

You only have the LOWS matt! I thought yours looked lower than an inch for sure! The point that often comes up (with any car) about the front being higher than the rear, is a bit misleading. This makes a lot of people think that the car is not level, as the tyre-to-guard clearance is different from front-to-rear. This is not the case however (or shouldnt be if you purchased springs lowered the same amount!) Not many cars are designed to have front and rear guards at exactly the same height. It is the "sill" height that needs to be level, and if you lower a car more at the front in order to get the guard closer to the tyre, you will get a "raked" look -your nose will be angled toward the ground. And while this can look tough on some cars, its not good for handling. Take most older commodores as an example, where most models have a very low rear guard, which makes the rear look majorly low when lowered, but the front tyres will never go that far up into the guards.

Anyone who is even near being professional, will tell you DONT cut a coil off your springs! Leave that for the backyarders (or commodore owners? -hey, they all seem to go chop their springs, especially the rear ones ) I cant remember the exact reason, something about spring rate?? I think its okay to have them RESET to your desired height though. This is also very cheap, and you still keep all your coils.