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32vspecII

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Everything posted by 32vspecII

  1. of coarse ! ill "upgrade" to a fully sick 88 ca18de silvia auto . in all its jap built glory !
  2. ive looked at 4 02 xr6ts for 30k , 3 autos and 1 manual
  3. thats the idea ! Im ripping the turbo badge off , ill even be able to park that thing in the street ! with 2 kid seats in the back no cop will ever look twice . who would expect the family falcon actually ran 12s and did 350rwkw make sure you get a blueprint blue , cause then youve got the most common colour too .
  4. drive says 1,694kg , carpoint says 1690kg for manual series II . most of the forums seem to talk about 1700kg , so yea about 1730ish for auto the auto being 30kg heavier roughly . ford have no weight listed on their website which is strange . series I is a little lighter I think , dont know about 80kg , 1664 would sound more like a manual sI . i have driven 1 r34 triptronic sedan , it was a very nice car . dont get me wrong I love the line and its a great car , if you want a thrashy sports car but need 4 doors now and then get the 34 . but if you want a practical sedan then the t is much better . and if you want BIG power then defietly get the T . If you want something to just do a exhaust and intercooler and a bit of boost then stick with the 34 . The T responds to those basic mods just as well but it excells in making big power in the realms that would start to get very expensive with an rb25 and to me thats when the positives start to outweight the negetives like big weight and size and plainer exterior . I havent seen any oficial 1/4s but some owners have said 14 flats for their stock auto t's . No idea on the r34 , given the worse power to weight id expect slightly slower over the 1/4 but maybe quicker to 100km given the weight difference .
  5. im getting an xr6t , upgrading from a r33 4door line , ive looked extensively at the 34s . if you want to stand out get a 34 , if you want stealth get the xr6t . If you never want to be pulled over and get defected get a t . if you want cheap insurance and parts get the t . if you want to drift get the 34 . if you want drag get the t . if handling is your thing get the 34 , if massive power is it then get the t . if you want a practical sedan get the t , if you want a sports car thats a bit more handy than a normal coupe get the 34 they are 1730kg in auto form , about 20-30 less in manual . they actually have fairly advanced suspension setups and handle well for a car of that size and weight but sooner or later that weight does have an impact . sitting on the xr6t forums a fair bit theres actually not that much that goes wrong with them in the main part . the main issue is the T5 gearbox in the series I , it will never handle 450nm of tourqe well and will die with small upgrades . the auto is a better pick and can be built to handle the output of a 350rwkw upgrade for about 3k . The T56 in the series II is much better but a moded t will need a mega clutch and some strengthening still you could have got a cheaper auto and put that money strait into the gearbox . Budget about 6.5-8k for a stengthened 6 speed if you get a manual 5 speed and want to go modding . im sure it would be a lovely car though . personally , im looking for a practical car for a growing family that I can have fun with , primarily drag . for about 8-10k there are kits to produce 350rwkw and run 12s on street tyres . looking at the HPI r34 they spent alot more than 10k to get that to run 12s .
  6. no spacers . im going to replace the nuts and studs , incase any have been weakened and see if I need center locator rings for the rims . I have a feeling after talking to people it may just be the nuts are not the correct size but ill do it all just incase , studs are cheap anyway . after that a good balance and alignment and see how it goes .
  7. ok this is kind of wierd . I have 18x8.5 inch rims on my r33 . theres a little bit of vibration at about 80-100km but nothing too bad , id assume a wheel alignment would sort it . but my wheel nuts keep coming lose gradually and If i forget to check them it gets to the point where the wheel is loose and you will be driving and you will hear this knocking noise and a couple of the nuts are fully undone . This happened tonight on the freeway and one of my studs broke off! its happened on 3 different wheels , front right and both left so far . do I need locator rings or something ? theres no problem with stock r33 wheels . also ive got locking nuts . could it be a problem with those ? they do up tight and everything .
  8. nizpro phase 2 kit costs 8k and does 350kw and runs 12s . should be enough for me for now
  9. mc right , 70$ for 4 runs of say 90 seconds each ? or about 12$ a minute !
  10. I posted this in the 4 sale section , but I thought it might be ok to post in the WA one as they are east cost dominated there . If its not my apologies and delete it . Im upgrading to a XR6t , the line just isnt big enough for my growing family . Its a late 95 GTST sedan Auto 98xxxkm Genuine Hybrid FMIC and custom piping done by hyperdrive . Not a hybrid copy ! Full 3inch Xforce Exhaust from the turbo back Blitz SBC electronic boost controller FET auto turbo timer HKS 2 bar boost guage (glows blue) AKUZA 18x8.5 rims with 90% tread left K&N Pod Filter decent AXIS cd head unit , Great front 6inch splits and pioneer 6x9s in the rear Sporty auto shift handle ! Rare burgandy pearlish factory colour (not the same as the usual 2 door wine red) Factory sun roof New RAWS compliance about 6 months ago Autowatch alarm/keyless entry . All the usual skyline power everything . Looking for 15k , located in perth . Bargain . Ive spent about 5k on this car since getting it 6 months ago . but what can you do . pics in this thread , its missing the rims , exhaust and front mount ill have new pics up tonight http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...highlight=arkon
  11. Im upgrading to a XR6t , the line just isnt big enough for my growing family . Its a late 95 GTST sedan Auto 98xxxkm Genuine Hybrid FMIC and custom piping done by hyperdrive . Not a hybrid copy ! Full 3inch Xforce Exhaust from the turbo back Blitz SBC electronic boost controller FET auto turbo timer HKS 2 bar boost guage (glows blue) AKUZA 18x8.5 rims with 90% tread left K&N Pod Filter decent AXIS cd head unit , Great front 6inch splits and pioneer 6x9s in the rear Sporty auto shift handle ! Rare burgandy pearlish factory colour (not the same as the usual 2 door wine red) Factory sun roof New RAWS compliance about 6 months ago Autowatch alarm/keyless entry . All the usual skyline power everything . Looking for 15k , located in perth . Bargain . Ive spent about 5k on this car since getting it 6 months ago . but what can you do . pics in this thread , its missing the rims , exhaust and front mount ill have new pics up tonight http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...highlight=arkon
  12. diagonal means bend over ive never had a defect or been pulled over in 4 years of turbo import driving
  13. fujitsubo make quiet exhausts , from memory the power getter , legalis and rm01 are all under the legal limit in aus
  14. does anyone actually go into perth if they can help it ? i mean its dead . its like dirty and scungy , theres all deros and the alley ways smell of urine and vomit and people ask you for money . and its totally boring , all the shops are stupid and there closed most of the time . basically i think all perth city council wants is high priced yuppie appartments so they can get buckets of residential stamp duty and everything else can get screwed
  15. oh , you should have said compliancing , that is very different . the car has to be returned to total stock , rims , exhaust , everything . theoretically . sometimes you get away with things . id find a set of stock pedals , or stock looking ones and remove the guage . less hassle than having to go back again .
  16. this is registering , not RAWS compliance . the car does not have to be %100 stock , only meet roadworthy requirements . Even then stuff gets through RAWS , my line had aftermarket suspension and got complience . drilled pedals have to have grip , cant be a glossed or painted surface . %90 of the pedals on the market wont pass . guage doesnt sound good . technically I think your not allowed one that has a vacume line running from the engine (mechanical) , it has to be a type with a sensor in the engine bay that sends to the guage (electrical) . but they dont pick that up much . most important thing is its location if its in a head impact area youll fail immedietly . that is usually on top of the dash or pillar guage . behind steering is ok as long as it doesnt block the cluster
  17. yea he takes the stock ones back as he has to have them for raws procedure . still a good deal , i mean stock rims are handy to have around but who wants a stock exhaust ? and you could get one for $50 if you needed one for a yellow or something .
  18. it is a waste of time and money
  19. i was negotiating with paul for catback and rims for an extra $800 but obviously type is a big factor . autoworx are tops , this is my second skyline and ill go there again if I upgrade to a 34 4 door , just have to wait till they get a 5 speed
  20. i think the old threads are amusing
  21. my real hybrid doesnt whistle , but its an older one and there are visible differences to the newer copies . the kits for 33/34/32 will definetly differ slightly
  22. sydney had some rex cop cars when I was there from about 98-01 but have been phased out NZ has some s14 200sx cop cars . sweet .
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