Guilt-Toy

where are you ? i would lend you my shaft, but there would have to be a deposit left. I will go insane without my shaft on my next box removal job. You need the shaft from a box itself, i had to sacrifice a old 4 speed box to get it but it works on all RB engines as well.

we had a spare r32 fan there, pulled my fan out and put direct power to it and it worked. so the fan works properly. One of the wires on the plug that goes to the FAN has power it may not be dropping earth for the different power steps? So im thinkin it could be the controll unit now? cos the fan works!

hey man there is such thing as a clutch alignment tool, the best tool i have ever made was when i cut the front shaft off the front of my Nissan Blue Bird gearbox which i would put in the clutch and slide into the spiggot bush then tighten the clutch and make sure the shaft can slip in and out easily then your set for putting the box in properly in the car, it has to be nearly 100% to slide in first go.

hey man there is such thing as a clutch alignment tool, the best tool i have ever made was when i cut the front shaft off the front of my Nissan Blue Bird gearbox which i would put in the clutch and slide into the spiggot bush then tighten the clutch and make sure the shaft can slip in and out easily then your set for putting the box in properly in the car, it has to be nearly 100% to slide in first go.

mate its going to be a good thing. Take your time you will enjoy it more.

does the diff have the ABS sensor connect to it ? if so il take it. please PM me your details and il come for a drive to sydney next week to pick it up. Thanks

The guys in the states must be using rocket fuel or something. sure anything can be done if tuned correctly but man thats one damn potential explosion your mate is going to have there... My rb30det uses around 7.8:1 and i am running 30psi happily with around 500rwhp. Engines with less compression are more forgivable on user errors

I have said it before and i will say it again. DO NOT attempt a rb30det build in your r33 skyline UNLESS you have broken your rb25. If you want more power then change the turbo and push the 25 then replace it when a 30 when it blows. Its just not worth the hassle unless you have big bucks and want the big power. & Using the "i will sell my rb25 to cover the costs" excuse is BS because they are only worth $300 - $400 second hand anyway. I got 260rwkw outta my stock rb30 with stock rings bearings etc and all the rings were broken and it spun a bearing and all other bearings were nearly spinning as well. Keep the 25, thrash it till it dies.

anyone ?!?

Today i turned my air con on, and it was working normal for a minute.. the air was cold everything was sweet but then the fan just stopped and the display says its on flat out. Why would it stop like that? could it be a fuse ? the motor is burnt out ?? what could be up with it ? anyone have any ideas? I noticed that cold air was still commin out of the vents from the air being pushed from the outside the fan is just not working the air con is....

what would a 33gtst with some slicks do with 360 - 380 rwkw ? bit off topic.. just wondering what i should be aiming for

anyone? $140 posted

i want one

Why do people allways run their cars on the edge to get max power at the expense of reliablility ? Running a engine hard on .85's can work yes. But what if there is a bad batch of fuel in the question ? or a fuel pump starts to fail a little or a fuel reg does something silly it could change the afrs to .87 .88's on a highly tuned engine after a short time you will have a broken engine. I like to see mine running at .80's and .82's when im pushin 25psi and 360rkw.. sure i could bag a extra 20kw if i leaned it off but i ike my engine and i want it to last. More power is not allways better.. reliability is where its at as far as i am concerned If you have a really good quality fuel system and EGT's in each cyl to make sure every cyl is getting the exact amount of air and fuel as each other and you are 100% sure everything is working correctly then sure run it lean... Using water changes everything and you can run it leaner.

it all depends on the engine and setup that your running. some cars need to run a little richer to run correctly on lower load points. I find that some cars can run fine at 14.7 on cruise across the whole board but some cars will run like a dog and will need to be richen'ed up to around 13.6... For AFR on boost it also depends on how modified the car is. If you have a stockish car then 12 afr is fine... if your pushing alot of power then its good to run it in the low 11's to keep the engine cool.

they are the same. Use the series 2 blocks because they have the lines needed

i would call the place you got the pump from.

when you think about it.. its a $1000 smash and grab. people even do this to air bags in steering wheels and sell them to dodgy repair shops

hmmm interesting.... how much oil do you have escaping into the catch can? what revs are giving this thing? and how long are you reving it for?

hey guys I got 2 burgandy R33 gtst tail lights from a 95 model series 1 Selling for $150 + post Located in Newcastle NSW for pickup

have you looked at our oil controll thread by Sydney Kid ? Did you run a oil return line from the back of the head to the sump? did you make the oil return holes bigger to the sump ? did you change the baffles and go for some after market ones?

i got a standard AFM & $100 sitting here that i could send to you for your z32 afm

sounds like the turbo is buggard. and it may have stuffed your cat as well

I have ACL in my rb30det

wow! a new vl! that is pretty cool... even though i hate holdens.