Race__24

Yeah cheers chook, just the sort of info I was after. I have some wiring and stuff that was removed, will have a look to see if there is something there that resembles the unit you posted. I'll also ask the installer if he touched/saw something as well.

It's just strange that it worked before and now it doesn't. The main reason I want it working is so it can display track info and it will look prettier.

Hey guys, just wondering how to keep the TV/GPS screen on S1 stag active while driving. When I first got the car with standard stereo etc it i could see snow when driving, now that I have got a headunit installed and running visual through AV2 it cuts out as soon as I put it in gear. Even when I try to view what I was seeing before the install. Is there a way around this? I expect there is as I know some people out there are running GPS through this screen. Maybe when they were installing the headunit they did something, or is it just s setting or something? I've tried doing a search but after several hours of reading I still havn't found what I'm after. Thanks for your help guys

I might be up for a ride one day, nothing too serious. Like a trip up to Bennets or something. I'd only be able to manage a couple of runs these days, too unfit and it's a looooooooong walk back up. Belair runs might be a goer as well, catch the train back up. Never done it as yet.

Mine was selling for over $3750 at some places. That $2000 on the site is $US even with the exchange rate as good at it is, bikes seem to retail over here for 75-100% more again. Same with MX stuff. I think it's a 2005 model, didn't realise I've had it that long, price drop $1750 review/specs HERE Anyway I'm not hear to haggle, if anyone is interested please let me know, price is negotiable. It's a very well spec'd for it's rrp

Hey mate, I've got a Mongoose Black Diamond Double that has done very very little work. It's got all the good bits. SRAM, haynes nines, hussifelt cranks, headset, bars, chaid guide etc,etc. 8inches of travel from memory, easy to crank due to the suspension design. I'd only want around $2k for it. If you're interested in having a look give us a buzz on 0439685079 Here is a link to the 2007 model, mine is 2006 but has pretty much the same stuff Mongoose

this post is a bit old mate

Looking to sell my S1.5 R33 GTST so I can buy a Stagea. Looking for $16,500 or swap for a Stagea 1995 model, with s2 engine Silver M-spec front bar and S2 spoiler 17XXXXkm Replaced engine at 110,000km by Tilbrooks (new waterpump, oil pump,belts,tensioner and idler bearings etc. etc.) Custom stainless exhaust CES split dump Power FC tuned by Simon @ Morpowa Genuine Exedy clutch - less than 10,000km old Exedy chromoly light weight flywheel - less than 10,000km old Bosch 984 fuel pump Trust fmic Blitz SBCid-iii Exhaust cam gear Custom HICAS lock bar New shockies <20,000km ago The car is making around 190rwkw on 11psi.All it needs is an aftermarket turbo and injectors to make somewhere around the 250rwkw mark. Will put some photos up this weekend if i get the chance. Call Aaron on 0439685079

I've got a YZ250 2 smoke. Good fun, but I'm new 2 riding so I'll give it a miss cos I'll take someone out!!!

Look here

Ok, just read your latest posts, after i posted mine. Everything should be good on your car, no motors needed!!!! Possibly more brains required from the installer tho!!

Ok, the thing people get confused about is the difference between "central locking" and "keyless entry". If you have keyless entry everything is sweet, all doors will have motors in them, you press the button and all the doors unlock. If you have central locking (on a skyline) the drivers door lock is basically a switch, when you turn the key it activates the motors on the other doors and unlocks them, and the reverse happens when you lock the car. There is no motor on the drivers door in this case as you are doing the unlocking. Some cars have motors on all doors but still don't have keyless entry. This just means that the central locking setup works off of all doors, not just the drivers door. This setup will also work with an alarm without additional motors etc. Basically, if the only way you can lock/unlock the drivers door is with a key, or manually from the inside, then you will require a new motor because A) you don't have one, or B) it's stuffed I hope this helps Aaron

The front page is up again, but the forum is still down

I'd steer away from Monroe shocks, I know one if their inspectors and some of the stories arn't good.

That's a great fish Dangerman, where abouts did you catch that beauty, down the mouth???

Click Here Says they do transporting in their ad, and close to you.

Ring a company that sells them, they may come do it or recommend someone who can. I think i may have even seen a specialist company around somewhere.

I've seen around the place that there are quite a few fishermen among us. Just wondering what sort of fishing people are into. So, what type of fishing are you into? Me, I'm into my lure fishing, mostly for bream but give anything a go! I also do a yearly trip down the peninsula chasing salmon and am looking to start live baiting in the port searching for that big mully

Bad luck dude, but it's 80km/h through there. If you're heading into the city, Port Wakefeild changes to 80km/h between Globe Derby and that intersection (just befere the right hand turning lane starts) You would have had your own lane there so I'm guessing you were heading out of the city. The limit out is still 80km/h and changes up to 90km/h 100m or so up from the merge lane. I don't agree with cameras near merging areas, I think it is more important to be paying attention to what's around you rather than looking at the dash.

My family has an Escort that they would like to get rid of. I was driving it when my line was off the road. It's a 1300 Auto- Euro slow as #### but better than walking. PM me if you're interested

Still for sale? What condition are the tyres in?

It's got a couple of areas that are a little nasty, 3/4 trottle under 3000rpm and high load areas as you mentioned. It just needs a good road tune to get the bugs out. All the knocking dissapears if you take 4deg out across the map but i just want to take it out where it needs it. It's very hard to track down when the knock gets under 60 and the light doesn't flash. The FC needs to be able to display the knock level and the map to do this easily but unfortunatly it doesn't

I was just wondering if anyone has a Datalogit or FC-Pro box i can borrow for a weekend or so as I need to diagnose a knocking issue that is a little too intermittant for the tuners to pick up. I'm hoping to use FC-Tune to run the diag I can leave a deposit etc if need be, your help is greatly appreciated Aaron

Just get the O2 sensor checked out, or just replace it anyway cos it's probably shot and causing your bad mileage. There is a way to convert a universal sensor i think, do a search.

Grab the filter and turn it clockwise, looks like it may be the problem as i had the same drips when i changed the filter and spilt a bit. Also since you said it was on the bottom and not the top it has to be coming from there somewhere.