Race__24

I'm not sure who I'll go with to get them done, I'm not getting them cold wound or anything special like that. Basically as long as they can make them to sit the right height, with the spring rate i want, out of quality steel i'll be happy. The goal is to get the springs so they go straight onto a standard bilstein strut and work with no mucking around. I'm thinking about getting them made about 25-30% stiffer than standard and sit around SK's recomended height. And as for price, I'm guessing around the $250 mark, but i have no idea.

Where abouts are you? I don't suppose you've got the shocks too by any chance

Get a quote and shop around mate, list price for fronts is $296 incl.gst when i checked earlier this week. That's for a RS4 but all prices would be similar. They should be able to do better than that.

Not sure if they are the same or not..... Also, I'm in Adelaide

Stock S1 Stagea RS4 springs, only need them to have a set made off of them, only slightly firmer and lower. I just need a starting point

Also, another quick question. If you change the shocks to bilsteins with stock springs, what height does it give you at the standard circlip position. Is there a change or are they dimentionally identical? We're talking - B46-1471 for the front (r32 GTR)- B46-1916 for the rear (r33 gts-t) Sama as SK group buy from what i can tell I'm going to get lowered springs made up to suit the standard circlip groove. Try and sort this spring mess out for good.

I would like to borrow someones stock springs so I can have a set made for myself and list the details of the new slightly harder and lower springs for everyone else. Do away with the uncertainty of what fits and what doesn't.

Hi everyone, I've done my head in reading 1000s of suspension posts, looking for a suspension upgrade for the stagea (s1 rs4). I am wanting Bilsteins, I have the part numbers for those, they are not a problem. Front springs are no worries, but the rears....... what a pain. I don't have standard springs, and the ones I have in there are unsuitable. And I don't want to go coilovers due to the legality issues. Early on there was a post saying that the part number for the rears was 70191 (whiteline) which was great, until I found out that Whiteline have ditched spings from their line up. A quick phone around and I can't get any. Where I'm at now is trying to find a set of springs to suit the stag. I don't want to increase the rate too much. Don't want to wait 4months for some teins to come in. And the SK group buys are unreliable at best at the moment. What I need is either -the specs of all 4 ofthe original springs (coil id, number, diameter, free height etc) so i can get a set made. -confirmed part numbers from the sk group buy or what they are for (pm might be best) -part numbers / info from someone who has had a set made up Thanks guys/girls, muchly appreciated

Hey, just thought I'd pop in and give my 2c since everyone else is. Forgive me if I'm repeating things already mentioned, buy I don't really have the time or desire to read through all 300+ posts of sh... slinging. Being involved with the birth of a new club before, I know what sort of effort needs to be put in, it's a huge amount. For those of you who havn't been involved in the starting of a new club, here is what you can expect. 1. The idea - Self explanitiory 2. Interm Committee - A group of motivated people who do the ground work to get the club up and running. Generally they do a lot of brain storming, look into things like idemnity insurance, places to hold meatings, membership requirements, legality issues and the big part is the constitution. The constitution is a written document detailing the working of the club, things like how are comittee members elected, how should members behave, how often are there committee meetings, how will the meetings be conducted etc. etc. 3. Members - At this point the club is ready to start operating but needs members to get off the ground and can start conducting events etc. under the Interm Committee. 4. The Committee - After a period of time a the Interm Committee will hand over to the Committee propper. This may happen anytime, but a period of 3-6 months after memberships open would be the norm. The process of forming a committee should be done as outlined in the constitution, usually via a nomination and vote of all paid members. Ok, that's a quick rundown of how most clubs start up, it is a monster undertaking for the people involved in step 2, but can also be very rewarding. These people often cop a bit of flack because from the outside not much seems to be going on, but trust me, it's a lot of work and lots of red tape. If I have one piece of advice, things are so much easier if you can model your constitution off of an existing, well set up, one. And remember the idemnity insurance, a disclaimer isn't worth anything and accidents do happen. If there is anything little that needs doing I don't mind helping out here and there, just PM me.

or you could try united fastners on cavan rd, probably the cheapest option by far.

Here's my 2 previous cars, a LX torana and a R33. just watch the file size on the 33 pic

Hey mate, after a steering wheel, don't need the airbag bit. And also the passenger side handle that lets the rear seats fold forward(the one in the boot). Hmmm, not sure what else.... could you pm me some prices, cheers

You won't need special LSD oil for your standard GTS-T Viscous LSD diff, they work via a different principal to the clutch, cone and mechanical types. If you've got an aftermarket diff........ well I don't know. But rule of thumb, go for the best you can afford. Diff and gearbox oils don't get changed like engine oil so you want to make sure you've got something that'll go the distance.

I'm not familiar with that particular model but reducing the gain will reduce your boost. Take 5% of and see how that goes. I'd recomend only running a max of 11psi for stock turbo and computer, 10psi if it's your daily. For more information on the unit do a search, there will be plenty of threads on here about it EDIT- I think it's the set gain that you want to adjust, just lower that and see what happens. From what I just read the %gain is to do with how fast the actuator opens and the set gain controls your overall boost

Nah, i had mine done at nissan, cost around $700 there but i had all the manifolds machined, plus they are buy no means the cheapest place around. I had my exhaust fitted there, they quoted me $100, but a bolt snapped, which happens unfortunatly, had to remove turbo to get it out, cost another $100 on top. $200 still a good price just for the install. They also did my timing belt and water pump at a very good price.

Looking at the gasket you're replacing it's the one between the turbo and the manifold. If it leaks you can probably hear it, I had one done on my 33. As for not booting it i'm not sure that it will do harm to your turbo. Since exhaust gasses leaking before the turbo would mean less going through, less boost and less pressure on the turbo. If it was leaking at the dump side then it may cause it to spool faster but no more than you'd expect from a high flowing exhaust.

I had a similar problem with my 33, turned out the computer got shorted and was running -40deg timing. Chuck a timing light on it. Also if you're not sure of their condition or type, change your plugs to Iridiums and gap them to 0.8mm

Biggest looser big!!!!!!

Mate, if it's a car you'll be happy to keep for another 5 years, just get the engine rebuilt. Should be able to get a basic bottom end rebuild for a reasonable price or spend an extra 2k and go the forged option. Atleast that way you know it's all good and you'll get to enjoy your mods. If you're handy with a spanner you can take the engine out yourself, strip it down and get the machining etc done and put it back together, and save a heap. Even if you get it built back up you'll save a bit.

Nope, S1 stag has the R33 S2 engine, S2 has the NEO.

I'm after 1 splitfire coilpack to suit RB25det out of a s2 R33, or a s1 Stagea. One went on me last week.

When a car rear ends another car it is always the back cars fault, even if you stop to do an illegal u turn, slam on the skids for no apparent reason etc. The exception is if there is an intoxicated driver, then it's his fault no matter what. A mate of mine found this out the hard way, he was in a 6 car pile up at a set of traffic lights, in the middle, and had to pay for the lot after he blew just over the limit (0.07 i think) He's still paying it off after 5 years

My Stagea RS4 turns sharper than my R33 Gtst ever did. I have a very tight driveway and noticed a reasonable difference.

If you search this site you may find a procedure for getting the codes, I know you can for the R33, not sure if the 32 is different.

R33 Gtst calipers, rotors and brake lines, good condition