CEF11E

have a look at my thread and tell me if u are interested

The car has now been tuned and is making in excess of 310rwkw.

strapped with 2 straps from the lower control arms going to anchor points on the floor behind the dyno, with the straps on a 30 degree angle with enough tension in the straps to make a twang noise if you struck them. unsure of the ramp rate but we added more ramp with no or little difference. I will chalk it down to wrong tyres and leave it at that. the tune is right so the only reason to stick it back on the rollers would be for a power figure. cheers all!

yep, I think i buggered $600 worth of tyres.. they are fedral 595rs-r's in 255/45/17. we tried strapping it harder. perhaps not hard enough by the sounds of it.

yep I remember reading you were going to get one and low mount it ages ago what sort of power is the 3076r making on your 25 at 19 psi?

Hi All, I have recently finished tuning my R32 and had some issues. I did a light tune on the RE customs dyno and the car made 280rwkw plenty of torque and was fairly well behaved, T The dyno operator did back off on the first few full power runs as it was coming on that hard it felt like it was going to climb out but it was fine. A day later I fixed a boost control issue and ran a few more PSI with the AFR's tidied up and took it back to the dyno. this time it was a different story. the car was strapped to the dyno from the rear cradle exactly the same as the first time and the chocks were under the front wheels exactly the same as before. the car was fine at low boost. as soon as the boost was set to 19psi the car would alpost launch out of the dyno. it would shudder hard and sit of the front rollers and then bounce back and sit on the rear rollers. the chocks then had to be pulled out from the front wheels to get the car back where it should be between the rollers. While this was happening the graph was all wavy the same as if you had wheelspin but much worse. during these runs it was making 310rwkw but possibly considerably more. I called it quits. even though the car was strapped down I thought it was a safety issue. I have tuned cars on dynos for years and never seen this before. the only thing that I had different was semi slicks on the back and they were HOT by the time we finished as were the rollers. can anyone shed some light on what might have been happening? I mean 300odd kw is a lot but nothing compared to some cars.

Dale, I used both ports on the wastegate. bottom port was sent everything in terms of boost and the top port was sent bled boost. this kept a fairly steady form of boost control. The manifolds and blocks of nissan engines are cast from the offcuts of panels after the stamping process. so even though it is cast it is of a fairly high grade with a low level of impurities. Hopefully it holds up well. there are no signs of stress as of yet. Lithium, I also was hoping for full boost earlier, It may be the stock manifold holding it back or the lack of timing coming onto boost. its a fairly conservative tune. and if a 3582 is a 3540 with a .82 rear housing then you'd be very close. I think with a better manifold design and some more tuning time you would get it coming on quicker. I am still happy with it!

UPDATE: I took the car to DMD Tuning at packenham this afternoon as I wanted to verify the power figure and tidy up the boost control. First at the same boost level run netted 265rwkw. 15 down on the RE customs dyno. I sorted oun the boost issue but it still trails off. After a few runs playing around with boost settings it made 310rwkw and proceeded to climb out of the dyno we strapped it down harder and also tired less tension and different ramp rates but nothing helped. out of safety I decided to call it quits. I am not sure if it would have made more than 310rwkw at that boost level. and I was not keen to up the boost as the car was already trying t get the FU%$ off the dyno. It's now hitting full boost of 19psi at 3800rpm and tapering off to 17psi but holds 19 untill 5500. So I am going to leave it at 310rwkw. the interesting part was that this dyno reads atleast 15rwkw LESS than the last dyno. The car is great to drive it comes on smooth and fast and pulls in every gear regardless of rpm. fantastic turbo and unbeatable budget engine/turbo configuration. 350rwkw would be done EASILY with this turbo and probably 400rwkw. the DSM guys in the states are pushing them this hard. [EDIT] no dyno sheet. for the 310rwkw the file was wiped before we printed it out [EDIT]

Excellent! the turbo should do exactly what you are after. Looks like I will put it back on the dyno tonight and push it some more! keep reading for an update tonight. cheers:)

Nice one mate! well it looks like you have bought the perfect turbo for the job. I was thinking lastnight about the tune, and why is it that your 'sensible' side tells you to leave it where it is while it is on the dyno and as soon as you get home your 'testicle powered' side tells you you should have pushed it harder... I am thinking about putting it back on the rollers and a. sorting out boost control and running 20psi b. leaning out the mixtures to 11.8:1 There are quite a few guys running 24psi on this turbo and making rediculous power. and as many have said they start making REAL power around the 22psi mark. Zurlox, what sort of power are you aiming at? and will your engine have forged bits? cheers!

Finally got around to sticking it back on the dyno. its making STUPID amounts of torque. as you can see the boost tapers off very quickly due to controll issues but its probably for the best as there is no traction anywhere above 4100rpm. I now have 4:1:1 diff gears in so the ramp rate is slightly wrong. you need to adjust the figures bit. bacically it hits full boost at 4000rpm on the road anda bit more on the dyno. at 4000rpm in 4th with my tyres I am doing 106kmph the AFR's are rich but its like that to keep the stock bottom end happy. If the boost was 19psi all the way to redline it would do 300 on its ass. but trust be it does not need another 20rwkw. as it is it makes MORE power all the way to redline. Interestingly enough, there was an R34 rb30det with a 3540 at the dyno today making 300rwkw and the power curve was IDENTICAL to mine but it was running more boost and more timing and cost $25000 more to build there's your proof holset HX35 potential users. they will make the power with decent spool...

Here's Mine RB30DET RB25DE head from R33NA with VCT disabled (completly stock) RB30E bottom end rebuilt with new rings and bearings 35000 k's ago stock cams stock inlet & exhaust manifold Holset HX35W 40mm external gate 740cc injectors Z32 3" turboback Stock R32 ecu remapped by me enough torque to break lots of things... boost tapering from 19 down to 16psi (got to get the control issues sorted out) running bugger all timing and 11:1 AFR's to keep the block in 1 piece Also was done with a set of semi slicks! good on the street but no good for dyno figures... The dreadded stock manifold brick wall is very close. Once the boost is stable at 19psi it will do 300rwkw easily. it kept making power to redline LOL!!!

just a kick up the arse to take it to the top. still not entirely sure i want to sell it

Millenium Jade R32 Skyline 140,000 k’s currently making in the vicinity of 300rwkw. The car will be tuned next week so an exact figure will be confirmed. At last tune it was 314rwkw. It is a full on performance car and would be very dangerous in the wrong hands. It really is a handful to drive if pushed but is fine in traffic and had been daily driven by me since buying and modifying it. It returns 400+ km’s to a tank and is comfortable to drive. I built the car myself to suit my needs at the time. It we designed to be used as a daily that I could take out to the track or to the skidpan on the weekends. It looks nice without getting attention from the wrong people. It is not overly loud I am in 2 minds about selling the car but have decided as much as I love it, I have 3 motorbikes and 2 cars and would like to consolidate and have just the 1 car. please check my garage below for photos http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mage&id=580 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mage&id=579 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mage&id=578 ENGINE - RB30DET I built this engine using an RB25DE head with less than 60,000 k’s and an RB30E bottom that has been rebuilt. All new gaskets and seals were used and VCT is disabled. The engine runs perfectly makes ridiculous power and torque. Misc engine additions: Holset HX35W Turbo Turbomotion 40mm External Wastegate Splitfire coilpacks 800cc Hiflow Injectors Z32 AFM K&N Pod Turbotech Boost controller Blitz Stealth same side return FMIC Braided stainless lines for turbo and VCT GTR fuel pump 3” turboback exhaust – Custom Frontpipe 3” Stainless catback Suspension/Handling Replaced front and rear struts Kingsprings front and rear Whiteline adjustable rear swaybar Solid alloy cnc steering spacer Adjustable forged castor rods Driveline Exedy 5 puck ceramic HD clutch Rebuilt RB20 Gearbox with hardened shafts : 0 4.1:1 diff to give it longer legs and better traction! Wheels/Tyres RS-R 3 piece 17x 8.5 F – 215/45/17 RS-R 3 piece 17x 9.0 R – 255/40/17 Fedral RS-R Semi Slicks Interior BRIDE BRIX recliner Ital Volanti steering wheel Quick release wheel kit GREDDY turbo timer Autometer boost guage Tinted windows – darkest legal Dash lights changed to red for that Darth Vader look Chrome gear knob and new leather gear / handbrake surrounds Full 3 point immobilizer and premium alarm insurance approved Stereo Sony CD/MP3 headunit Jaycar 6.5 splits Eclipse 12” sub in custom fibreglass sub box Soundstream Granite 4ch Amplifier Boot retrimmed in standard grey carpet I am not in a hurry nor do I need to sell it. I am looking for a trade for a Stagea or possibly a Legnum in good condition with minimal mods. Or will sell the car for $14500 The car will be sold without rego due to the legalities of an RB30det I am not interested in haggling and am not hard up for cash. I built it for a lot more than this and anyone that wound be genuinely interested would know what is involved in putting together a machine like this.

depends, Limiter bashing kills oil pumps and you really dont need to rev a 30 that hard. setting the limiter to 6300 is fine even for long tracks (not often you see over 230kmph) and for drift you simply use a good oil pump in them not an rb30e item.

Done and Done! thanks all! that was a quick sale

As PSI said it can be done and mine is an example. standard bottom rebuilt with new bearings, rings and seals. $800 RB25DE VCT head - $500 oil lines, tensioners, timing belt - $300 RB 25 hiflowed injectors - $350 Z32 AFM - $250 Holset HX35 - $500 Standard manifold modified to take external gate - $350 Custom dump pipe, piping and silicon joiners - $300 coilpacks, pick your brand these days - $400 ECU remapping - $500 Fuel pump - $200 all this costs just short of 4.5g and is the bare bones prices. you will make 300rwkw with these mods and it will be reliable but I wouldn't want to push it much further. this is a ball tearer of an engine/turbo combo! this does not count the gearbox you will smash or the expensive clutch. nor will you get 300rwkw to the ground neatly without a mechanical lsd

Hey All, I have decided to sell my 2-way LSD. It has been in my R32 for about 15 months and is the tightest most predictable diff you can put in your skyline. I bought it when the car was used for drifting on a wet skidpan and it was fantastic. the car has not been drifted now for over a year and I have not made use of it. Recently I had a catastrophic rear end failure caused by a worn CV and 300rwkw so I bought a whole new rear end for the skyline and decided to put the Viscous that came with it in and put the 2 way diff aside till I start drifting again but its not going to happen for ages so I might as well sell it. I bought the diff from SSS automotive and paid a premium for it. It was fitted to my R32 skyline and will fit R32, R33, S13, and S14 you would have to check if it fits an R34 I am 95% sure it does but have never fitted one so i would check with your mechanic. You can pull your diff out and swap this lsd into your housing but If you need it I can also throw in a 4.3:1 crown wheel, pinion wheel, bearings, housing and a backing plate. that will suit an R32 or S13. It has been dissasembled and checked but can be put back together for you if needed and you just want to bolt it in the car and get going. Located in Melbourne but postage is no problem. Just to note: if you are looking at getting an LSD this is as TIGHT AS A NUNS NASTY!!!! it will get you sliding better than anything else available but really is a very tight diff. Asking $550 Cheers!

I have got all the bits to replace my rear end New R32 non HICAS cradle GTR drive shafts Replacement diff. I have decided to use a 4.1:1 ratio. mainly to reduce the revs at highway speed and there is plenty of torque to pull the car around with the longer ratios. Acceleration may be reduced a bit but more likely I will just have traction for a change!

yep! that is what i am thinking. gtr whole rear end if possible.

just looked at it and it was in 4th 80kmph roll on from 3000rpm. in real world it spools the turbo at about 2500 and full boost by 3200 in 3rd. 4th th ect... I have discovered what had happened with my rear end. the rear cradle might have a minor twist in it but it was enough to throw the diff out of alignment by a degree or two. massive torque and a 2 way with semis are a good way to start breaking things. I am going to fix it and then take the semis off and replace them with normal street tyres. all 6 bolts were sheared in 1/2 and the cv came off the 1/2 shaft. the cradle might be ok. I will have to take it off and measure its dimensions and see whats buggered. it could have just been the bolts shook loose and all gave way under acceleration. anyways after I fix it I might end up selling it. at the moment I have 2 skylines, 3 motorbikes, 4 bicycles and a trailer in my garage. to much work!!!

Its going to be a while till that is done. The car suffered a catastrophic failure on the weekend, Imagine what would happen if your 1/2 shaft separated from your drive shaft at 100kmph. at this stage it looks like I need every mechanical part under the rear end. it was an expensive weekend and I didn't even get pissed...

just pulled this off my phone. REALLY SHITTY VID. but atleast you can hear the gate. it was done on low throttle so pay no attention to spool. cheers!

yeha I will get there too much on the go at the moment, I have jsut finished rebuilding a CBR600R and now have to cafe racers is bits in my garage. it never ends, i have kind of given the car a break for now but will finish this soon, The car is on the road and daily driven at the moment when the gate opens it breaks traction HARD! its pretty loud! has anyone else got any figures from these turbos on RB's yet?

good work what sort of turbo have you got strapped to it?