CEF11E

congrats! looks great! you will not be sorry with the RB30DET. jeebus its going to propel that 240sx at a rate on knots!

no one has mentioned an engine ballancer. they make the job a lot easier.. i removed the engine and box from my r32 alone with a crane and balancer. ONE OF THESE you can use it to adjust the angle of engine and box by up to 45deg either way.. a good way to do it but take my advice... dont to it on your own,,, have atleast 1 mate with you.

I went thru the exact same dilemma when I installed the HX35 on my RB30det. and I looked at these but was stopped by the sheer size of the turbo. there was not enough room without the turbo touching the strut tower. also I was worried about it cracking due to sheer weight. I ended up using a 20 mm spacer to get the clearance I needed and then going and external gate mounted on the manifold from a section of steam pipe the same as worp3d's but joined at the collector on the top. I ended up with PERFECT boost control and decent clearance. I fabbed up the lot myself and it looks reasonable. what foolboost has posted is the way to go. but it would require a lot of custom work making it to expensive to justify as by the time you had it done you could have bought yourself a 6boost manifold. HAVE A LOOK HERE FOR MY TREAD WITH DETAILS AND PHOTOS

best wheels ever... lightest forged monoblock wheels available for skylines. look porn!!! i just bought a set and they are fantastic. buy them you wont be sorry!!

its going to be the rear seal on one of the turbos. oil is passing the seal when there is no back pressure in the rear oulsing. oil pressure is overcoming the pressure in the housing and then a bit of oil passes the seal and smokes in the hot turbine housing. I had this happen with the last turbo I bought. I rebuilt it myself and no more smoke cheers!

hmmmmm. I am in melbourne and stil know who you are talking about... I would be hitting him up for a new engine you have seen the compression tests for. you are owed at least that. I would say the cost of installation would have to be recovered by you. no fun but probably the best you can hope for.

a lot of the time, the car's is calibraded against the dyno speedo. this will tell you the multiplier (diff) datio. if the car is in 4th (1:1 ratio) if this is done correctly its a good indication on your actual speed. RPM is based off the same calculation of dyno to tacho and is quite often off by a few 100 rpm. that is why most operators leave speed as the reference. its pretty easy to work out rpm from speed. all you need to know is the diff ratio. and as long as the tyres used are close to the correct rolling diameter you will be right. sorry I hope some of this makes sense, my head is all over the place., might read it later and see WTF i ment...

I have since retuned my car and it is now making 326rwkw at 19psi with my HX35. specs as follows RB30DET - rb25 NA head rb30e bottom end rebuilt to standard specs. modified standard manifold with external 40mm gate HX35 with 10cm^ rear housing 740cc hiflowed standard injectors Z32 AFM, 3" exhaust, FMIC, splitfire coilpacks Remapped stock R32 ecu. idles like factory and still returns close to 400km's to a tank! standard everything else. full boost at 3400rpm, power keeps climbing to redline. controllable power delivery with part throttle make it a VERY fast car. or if you give it a quick sharp stab it will fry a set of 255 semis is a straight line. I am looking at modifying a HE351VE and fitting it. these turbos are MASSIVE. and I mean MASSIVE if you have a look at a T88 you will be getting close to their size. have a look HERE TO SEE WHAT THEY ARE ALL ABOUT one of these puppies will spool 1000rpm earlier than most making them similar in response to a stock RB25 turbo and when the housing is fully opened the rear will flow enough to make 400rwkw+. Imagine a turbo that has full boost by 3000rpm and makes 400rwkw!!! a lot of reading buy well worth it. there are now a few guys that are using these and controlling the rear housing opening and closing with an actuator. Cheers!

that is a genuine holset and looks brand new!

they are good injectors, I tested them when looking at producing hiflows. they flow just like oem injectors and as mentioned apart from having to chop up your loom and wire in new plugs they fit. the reason no one often goes for a set of these is because they are expensive once you buy 2 sets even if you buy 3 sets and split them. you also have to source at least 2 sets of injectors. this is the reason I went with hiflowing the standard units. cost and having to modify the loom.

due to lack of interest the group buy has been closed. thanks all!

hey all, looking for a cheap 2nd car. and am after either 1. 180SX CA turbo at minimum, up to 5k must have been registered in vic or currently registered in vic 2. R32 4 door - any spec. must have been registered in Vic. will pay up to 5k 3. R31 is immaculate condition. must be registered in vic silo preffered but would consiter a TI. need something fairly soon and RWC is a huge bonus. not looking for anything to modded or fancy. please pm me if you have anything to offer or if you spot something i might be interested in. thanks!

you can see the machining marks in the wheel. wow! billet wheel is pretty cool. the tips are on quite and angle. they look like the hx35 compressor wheels any specs on weight?

I posted a huge reply to this but it got lost in the ether... here is a sum up I posted a huge reply to this but it got lost in the ether... here is a sum up the K value is probably wrong. Here are some tips that may help… 1. disconnect the o2 sensor to the ecu 2. plug in the wideband and start the car and monitor the AFR’s. if they not 14.7 the K needs to be adjusted till its close ( less than .05 afr out) do this when the car is warm so cold start does not affect the afr. 3. once the AFR is correct on idle plug in the o2 again and drive the car logging afr’s and compare them against the map. They should be very close. 4. adjust every cell in the last 3 colums above 3000rpm to 11.5:1 5. adjust the primary timing map to 14deg in the last 3 colums above 3000rpm 6. adjust boost to 10psi or less. drive the car logging afr’s thru all rev ranges to 5500 on varying loads. Compare AFR’s to the accompanying load cells. Adjust as needed. 7. you can now put the car on the dyno and start winding up the boost. Tune to desired boost level. 8. road test the car full throttle in 2nd 3rd and 4th. Monitor for knock. Also boost up a hill in 2nd to 6000 fully decelerate and then when revs die to 3500 mash the throttle and monitor knock. The cells between 3500 and 6000 should be no leaner than 11.5:1 9. put the car back on the dyno and do a power run, monitor final afr’s and you will have your power figure  the turbo should make full boost by about 4000rpm and make 350rwkw.. huge fat power curve and climbing all the way to redline!

what size are your injectors? I have a 7 blade HX35 on my rb30det and now have it tuned and running smoothly. I am running an external gate, 740cc injectors, z32 afm, stock modified manifold ect. How far is the Z32 away from the turbo? I had issues having the Z32 to close to the turbo idle would hunt and was a bit erratic. I put an intake pipe in with a 90deg bend and about 45cm from snout to afm. I also removed the silencer ring from the front of the turbo and think this made a difference to idle quality. I think it has something to do with the fact that the turbo has a 4" snout and the amount of turbulance in the intake pipe. as for your afr's make sure you do not have an exhaust or vacuum leak somewhere. keen to see your results! cheers!

Have a look at the holset hx35. its what I have on mine and it makes 320rwkw but at more boost than you want to run. i am running 19psi. I paid $150 for mine and then rebuilt it. you can get good ones for $300. I have an entire build thread in the forced induction thread. read it and be the judge

turbo sold!! injectors still available.

sounds loke a simple but effective engine. If I was going to build one again, and i probably will shortly, I would use gtr rods prepped and a set of forgies and new rod bolts. but that would be to lean on it harder and shoot for 400rwkw. totally un nessacary power figure but I have all the supporting mods for it. for your power figure it sounds like a good reliable combo. my build had less effort put into it and pushes 320rwkw now and shows no signs of trouble. rev limiter set to 6700 now

wheels sold!!!

wheels sold!

had a few pm's but no confirmations. if interested please confirm in this thread

actually I need another 30e for my daily. was quoted $200 delivered for a runner, I guess the $50 was for delivery to my door.

have not heard of them but sounds like a good service. the engines here cost $200 complete so i guess once you factor in labor, packing and administration its a very reasonable solution.

tailshaft sold pending payment.

they would need 15 or 20mm spacers to clear r32 brakes. in the photo there are 20mm spacers on the front. thanks