CEF11E

yep the receiver is a good idea. I was going to a stainless tank welded up and use an intank pump with a decent volume air line feeding the tank from the manifold so it owould still fill quickly from vaccum to boost when it is nearly empty. I have a freind that has a 12v air compressor from a truck air horn that feeds air into a pressurised tank from the top and the water pickup at the bottom. using an injector again but running methonol 80 water 20. the tank has a pressure switch that turns on the compressor as soon as pressure drops below the desired level. the whole system is really compact and works much better than most of the commercially available kits. he is running mega boost. 40+ psi on a low compression gsxr1300 engine is his dethkart... I refuse to be a passanger

I have run water injection before in a turbo setup where there was no space for an intercooler. I ran a 50/50 mix and spray jet with a 43psi diaphram pump, anti drainback valve and pressure switch. it worked quite well I was able to run 13psi without pinging with it and only 6psi without, I then played with it quite a bit and ended up using an injector distilled water methonol mix and the same 43psi pump. the injector was fired by the standard ecu injector driver on cyl #1 but would only fire once the afm read 2.95 volts. (this was when the car came on boost under moderate load. this gave me a ratio of 1:6 as i was using the same size injector as the ones for the fuel. it worked really well but I had issues with the injector sticking as water is obviously not good for fuel injectors. it was a really simple setup. but there were 2 problems with it. 1. as boost rises you are LOOSING water pressure as the manifold pressure pushes against the pressure you are injecting. as 0 psi its 43psi at 10 psi its 33 psi ect... unless you use a rising rate reg hooked up to manifold pressure. never got that far before i sold the car. 2. if you ever forgot to fill the tank and you gave it a boot full the car would ping its tits off!!! happend to me more than once even though i had a reminder light installed on the dash.

Here are the photos of the modded wastegate flap. it is using a 32mm iconnel flap and has been done with a die grinder. really nice job. the guy who did this also took material out of the twinscroll devider so gasses from both sides can go through the gate. so its no longer a twinscroll housing. as you can see the stock gate is TINY! and the guy that did the mid did a really nice DIY job. I cant find the link to give the guy credit anymore but from memory it was on a volvo.

great reply. thanks Disco. I did a bot more testing on the way to work and disconnected the actuator leaving the flap open. I did a full throttle 4th gear pull and it hit 17psi and then tapered back down to 15. this has no real bearing to the gate normally because the turbine speed is not as high when the gate is open from idle as it never gets full cylender pressure pushing the turbine round. I will add some photos i have found of a modified hx35 gate.

i have requested the photos so we will see. my speedo is under by 4k's at 60 and under by about 7k's at 100. this was measured by gps

Hey all, As some may have read I have a HX35W installed on my rb30det. the turbo perfroms very well but boost control has become an issue and i need a bit of advice before i start pulling it off. The rear housing is a 12cm^ twinscroll housing (approx 86A/R) it has an internal gate and it is bolted to the stock RB25 manifold also a split pulse design. the problem seems to have started since i have retuned it and added manual boost control. in 1st and 2nd it holds boost fine. in 3rd, 4th and i am sure 5th boost creeps violently well above what it should it would just keep climbing well over 20psi. The 2 options I have are. 1 port the internal gate, 2 go external gate. If I port the internal gate I can take it out to 32mm but being a twinscroll housing it will only relieve boost pressure on 1 side. and this will also mean the rear 3 cyl will have far less back pressure than the front 3. is this a bad thing? I was thinking seeming as the rear 3 run hotter than the front it may not be such a bad thing. also will relieving pressure from 1 side of the twinscroll be enough to control boost? this would not be an easy mod nor cheap but would be my preference as it will look standard. If I go external gate I have no other option but to put a gate on the standard manifold as space is a MAJOR issue. if i get a steam pipe elbow welded to the collector and then install a 35mm tial gate them merging back into the exhaust after the first bend about 600mm after the turbine would it perform well? I am sure the external will work well but it will stick out like dogs balls and may cause heat issues. cost would be about the same any advise from those who actually know would be greatly appreciated.

Just a bit of an update as its been while, the turbo has now done 1000 k's and feels great! I am having a bit of an issue with boost creep and it looks like I am going to have to redesign the dump and bore the internal gate as a minimum. I really dont want to go the the cost/trouble of replacing the manifold and an external gate. it would give awsome results but i want to keep the car looking stock and would prefer not to spend almost $1500 on a propper gate and manifold. you can buy a cheapass $250 manifold and nasty $100 gate but i dont roll that way. oem parts are far better quality and more reliable. boost is steady in 1st 2nd and it creeps up hills in 3rd and is now spiking badly in 4th. this is running 17psi. the turbo delivers WAY more than the 3 litre can swallow and the little gate cant handle it. my dump design i admit is woeful. the gate gasses slam right into a wall and then have to turn 90deg and merge with the turbine gasses in a 3" pipe. I am going to rectify this before i pt it on the dyno for a final tune so it will take a while. I hope this is enough to fix the issue, otherwise its turbo off and pull down again to bore out the gate and add a much bigger flapper. I am still massively impressed with this turbos performance and dont think you will get a better performing turbo for less than 2g. Rather than just tell everyone how easy it is I prefer to tell it how it is so others having a go know what to look out for. it WILL be an unbeatable combo once sorted I am sure of that, jsut not yet Cheers!

I have been doing a lot of reading and yes, you can not be booked on the same stretch of road within a cetrain distance. so it is an error. also the stretch of road the fine was issued on is not sutiable to use for a speed camera due to the bend in the road and downhill slope. I am going to appeal it, not sure what course of action to take yet how but i will, thanks for all the advise so far!

I got a nasty surprise in the letterbox yesterday and wanted some advice. I have just been booked for going 15km over the speed limit TWICE within a 2 min period. The first offence was for doing 68 in a 50 zone at 12:45pm The second offence was for going 65 in a 50 zone at 12:47pm Both fines are $227 and 3 points. Here are the problems I have with this. After doing some tracing back I can clearly remember the day. I was driving along a suburban stretch of road and was flashed by another driver coming the other way. I instantly looked down at my Speedo and checked I was not speeding. I was doing 50 spot on. I continued to drive along looking for a speed camera and saw a station wagon on the side of the road with a speed camera in it. I checked my speed again. 50... fine I thought. I continued to drive along cautiously. So I remember distinctly NOT SPEEDING past the camera. And there was only 1 speeding camera not 2. Also the camera was well and truly parked on the side of the road in someone’s front yard and not on a straight bit of road. The fact that hey have issued me with 2 fines 2 min apart and both the speeds are different suggests to me that they are in error both for issuing me the fine twice and the fact that bots speed detections are different. I am discussed with this as it is blatant revenue raising. I am a 33 year old male, with 1 speeding ticket issued in my 15 years of driving. This is a street that kids play on and I was most certainly NOT SPEEDING. I really feel this is unjust and do not feel like I should have to cop it. If you have had something like this happen to you or have any advice please post away. Thanks!

if its a billet rail and there is enough material there to drill i dont see it being a problem. it depends on how the oring seats in the rail. best off googling it or seeing what they do over at GTR UK cheers!

top mount will be a lot easier. keep this updated, keen to see how it works out for you. cheers

hey turbz, consider it sold pm sent.

well said trent, they are not a magic turbo, just a damn good one that are cheap but by no means easy to fit.

stock rb30e headgasket will be fine. I am using one on my rb30det with rb25head and rb30e block. it cost me about $60 for one. cheers!

no there were 2 of them, i messaged him as i was going to get a spare. they both got snapped up on the same day.

its really a lot of guess work until we have a few results on a few cars. i know what you mean about the results not adding up. the compressor maps are all over the place. in regard to the turbine housings the holset ones are BIG... if you look at the 10cm^ housing it is considerably bigger than a .63 housing in any brand both internal volume and external size.

you can use the stock actuator. I modified mine (not the gate) and will have to draw up a diagram of what i dod to mine to make it fit. also, once the mod is done you could quite easily set the actuator at about 10psi if you wanted to. You should probably port the gate before you put it on but mine seems to hold boost fine, but as cjmartz has said others have been having trouble keeping boost stady with the stock gate. robots, i tried taking some photos last night but light was no good and they looked worse than the ones i already put up. I will get some up soon. Hmmm, the EMU is probably not the best choice unless you already have one I would remap the stock ecu. or run the rb25 on an rb20 ecu remapped

Who bought the 2 holsets the same as mine on ebay I know it was two people from sau just not sure who! I am wishing I had bought one to squrriel away now!

hey strong, good luck! not an easy fit but if i can be of any help let me know. Yes you wil need a spacer. I made one out of 2 10mm flanges welded together and put a devider in the spacer to keep it split pulse. I also used a gasket on each side of the spacer sp the total thickness would be around 23mm thick. you would not want to go any thinner than this. as my comp housing is VERY close to the manifold. you can fit the oem heatshield but you will have to cut a section out of it to clear the comp housing. you will also have to cut one of the cast standoffs on the manifold off to clear the compressor cover. best way to do all this is to take the manifold off and fit the turbo to the manifold on a workbench. you will also have to rotate the compressor cover and exhaust housing for the rb orentation. the internal wastegate will fit but you need to cut the mounting bracket and bolt it on in another position and shorten the actuator rod. I am going to take some better photos and update them in my thread. these might help. other than that, if yours is lhd i am not sure but the p/s resivoir on mine has to be modified to clear the turbo!