CEF11E

Falc, I had a look at the compressor maps when i was choosing a turbo for mine and had difficulty getting the correct compressor map for the turbo I was looking at so in the end i just looked at the power it was making at what boost on as many cars as possible. I came across the map that is for my compressor after I pulled the turbo apart and infact the compressor is rated to flow an incredible amount. on my setup at 20psi it will flow just a shade under 47lb/min at full noise. at 3500 rpm it will flow 22lb/min. and that's only 220odd hp. I might have got my volumetric efficiency wrong and therefore my calc's could be wrong. any once you put the compressor in a cover and bolt a turbine in a restrictive side all the maths go out the window. I am guessing that the 12cm^ or even the 10cm^ @20 psi with these turbines will still flow enough for 350rwkw. I am basing this on the fact that a .63 rear can flow 300rwkw and the 10 and 12cm considerably bigger. so the HX35 looks like it will flow 47lb/min. @20psi. that's 350kw. the 10cm^ housing looks like it will also cope with this power level and the standard RB manifold will start to choke at 300rwkw and that would be approx 330 to 340 flywheel kw? so in theory the HX35 looks to be the perfect turbo for us. I have included the map for mine with a line at approx 20psi.

that is a very nice tune well done!

all you have to do is run the rail pressure that you should normally use 43psi is standard. running a lower rail pressure will give you a poor spray pattern and bad atomisation. as said above, readjust your fuel pressure to 43 psi and retune the car at that pressure level. cheers!

this is how i have done mine RB25head VCT from r33 including r33 cams with vct. cas, coilpacks, loom sensors from rb20det. rb30e bottom end rb30e head gasket oil feet tee'd before the pressure sender going to the VCT solenoid hole. works perfectly have done 34,000 k's on this motor like this now and it has not missed a beat. making 250rwkw at 17 psi and now 314rwkw on a bigger turbo at 19psi (still not tuned perfectly yet)

I have a a melted metalcat in my garage. the roll has come loose and rattles around in the barrel. this was on a car making around 250rwkw with afr's that were between 11.5:1 and 12:1. and there was no excessive exhaust gas temps. the car also saw the track around 3 times with the cat on. it only lasted 9 months before it started rattling.

the jaycar thingie is an analog voltage bender much like a safc. it comes in kit form and costs about 80aud. hmmm the ones i was looking at used a variable voltage input to change the a/r in a linear fasion. i guess i would have to buy one to find out. so far on mine i have not upped the boost yet, its only running 14psi at the moment. i will have to wait till i get get some dyno time to tune it properly. even at 14psi its to dangerous to look at the boost guage to see if boost is steady to redline. will have to wait till I get it on the dyno to find out. even then for the longevety of the motor i am going to cap power at 300rwkw so i will not see over 20psi. I might upp it a bit on the dyno to see what it will do but i really dont want to lunch the motor for the sake of a few figures cheers

I was thinking of putting one of the 351ve's on the 30DET but it would not fit in the space I had for it in the low mount position. I would love to use one of these. they would not be hard to control. all you need to do is buy a digital fuel adjuster from jaycar, splice the output from your AFM into the ecu as normal and run the other feed to the adjuster. the output from the adjuster is completly programmable. and will output from 0 to 5v or 0 to 12v. this then goes to the actuator and presto! completly programmable vairable geo turbo!! you would have to spend quite a bit of time on the dyno to tune it though. the other way to do it would be via injector duty cycle. but airflow would be the better but harder way about it. I also looked at using a map sensor

yep I liked that one too. so the T88 and the TD06 are also no good going by that rule. but both were originally designed for diesel trucks!

I have a hiflowed set making 300+ rwkw no problems, they idle like factory and were a peice of piss to tune.

I have one on my car and they are good if set up right. you can adjust the seat pressure, meaning the threshold at when they open. they are machined and the seal in mine is fine. i use lithium grease in between the piston and the chainber. this is the same design as the super GT300 class in japan uses so they can't be all that bad... they do not sound like that in the video in if set up wrong they tend to "bounce" producing a choo choo choo choshhh sound much like fulleh sic "dosing"

in reply to an earlier post about the wastegate on the hx35w. it seems to hold boost qiote well in standard form. i plugged a manifold pressure guage up to a logger on my pc today and its quite steady with the standard gate. it does spike 1 psi just as it hits full boost and then tapers of almost 2 psi by redline but for manual control that is fantastic. I have been using the adjustable actuator to controll boost. it has a screw thread on the rod. and you can set it from about 10 psi up to wel and beyond what you would want to run, but i am guessing it would hold 36psi no problems. i am going to keep the preload set to 15 psi and control boost with a turbotech. once I have time it will be going back on the dyno to tidy up the tune. I might tone it down a bit and cap it a 300rwkw to keep the motor in good health. the torque off boost is very good and boost is very progressive. The turbines in these turbos are HEAVY!!! i really noticed it when rebuilding it. and after putting it together I tried reving in with a few short stabs before taking off and noticed it comes on boost a lot sooner by doing this compared to a smaller turbo. I have also noticed short sharp gear changes keep the turbo spining and there is NO LAG between gears if you keep your changes smooth and fast. I still have difficulty beliving this is a turbo off a 6 litre diesel truck that cost $150 having said that, from bolting the old one off to bolting this one on and having it running has cost me in excess of $1500 and that was with me fabricating everything. dump, manifold adapter, lines and pipe work are all custom and then there is labor ontop of that. so if you were going to pay a work shop to do it all for you it would be the same price to buy an off the shelf gt35r or something the like. but It is something different and I am glad I went this way. not just for the sake of doing something different but I learnt a lot and will be sticking to holset's for future projects.

some advice as most of your replay are pretty short and not very helpful... you can remap rb25 ecu's but due to the chips needed they are more expensive and not many people do them. Toshi from these forums does and his reputation is very good. alternatively, you can use nistune. very good and there is lots of tuner support and you will get good results, this is the best software out there for remapping ecu's. you can run the following ecu's rb25 rb20 - any variety, but you will not be able to control VCT. this is not really a problem but if you can its good to be able to control it VG30 - can be rewired and remapped to run an rb25, you retain VCT control and its just as easy to remap as an rb20 ecu. it sounds like whoever did it for you has done a bot of a dodgy job and you need to talk to them and get it sorted out. you can run an RB25 on an r32 ecu with no problems, mine makes 311rwkw on a remapped r32 ecu. its all in the tune, also if the socket has been soldered in your ecu incorrectly or without precision you can lift a track or join 2 with solder. if this is done the car will obviously not run properly and you will have symptoms described earlier. so get it checked out by who tuned it first and if you get no joy, pm me and i will see if i can help. Cheers!

if your car is an r33 as in your sig, you will have lost VCT. also if your cat light on the dash is flashing it means the map on the eprom is either wrong or it is not seated in the ecu properly. take it back to whoever did it immediately you could be doing your car damage... also ask them what they have done with VCT.

alrighty, the turbo is back on and running. its no longer blowing smoke. the rebuild was fairly easy. anyone with a really good set of tools and good mechanical knowledge could rebuild one. I am getting fairly quick at removing/refitting turbos now. it took me 45 min to get it off the other day and it took me and hour and a half to refit it last night. CJmartz2k, I have taken out the silencer ring in the compressor housing and the turbo makes a really high pitch whizzzzzzz type whine when over about 15psi its fairly loud... does your turbo do this? i have seen a few of your clips and have not heard it. The turbo has a 4 to 3" silicone reducer being fed from a 3" mandrel bend that is metal so this might be amplifying the noise. can you describe your hi boost noise? I had to remove to standard BOV due to clearance issues with the bonnet and I now have a blitz superwank, oops i mean super sound BOV fitted in the intake piping. it is not relieving pressure at low boost and I have fulleh sic compressor cho cho choooo happening so I have to sort that out. To give those who know bikes a comparison, I have a CBR600R with a pipe and a jet kit, it puts out 108rwhp. the skyline now smashes it!!!

its all good. happy to have a conversation about these turbos in 1 place. feel free to chat about these turbos in this thread. I had a bugger of a time getting the circlip that holds the compressor cover on back in place last night... its the worlds biggest circlip! HERE IS A GOOD THREAD documenting a rebuild of a holset. check it out

yep thats some big power right there... what sort of boost are you running? looks like full boost at just before 5000rpm but still good power before then. i was going to put mine back on tonight but couldnt be arsed,,, will do it this week though. there is a guy here at work that used to build drag cars and said the holsets have been his choice for reliability for a long time. he used to run 2 super hx40's on a hemi. it made 1236hp at 36psi on c16. he laughed when i said i was hoping to get 300rwkw out of the hx35 i have. he said it would piss it in.

it would be a lot cheaper, but not sure if it would be a good result you could try a hx30. they are supposed to be the ducks guts on 2 litre engines... it will push those numbers at a bit more boost. if you have a 25 you could get away with stock injectors and afm and just get a remap and bolt one of these on and go for it. or you could get one of the op6 rear housings and get hypergear to do a hiflow for you for about $800 by the time you make up all the bits the hiflow would be cheaper and will flow 240rwkw so for those sorts of power levels you could go either way... it would be cool to see what a hx30 is capable of on a rb25.

I tuned the stock ecu myself. my setup is rb25vct head from r33 rb30 bottom end r32 ecu, z32 afm, 800cc side feed injectors that are standard RB25 ones modified to flow 800cc!!! r32 gtr fuel pump, 3" custom exhaust intercooler yada yada yada... I map tracing via consult and adjust the maps on pc using oldschool but very reliable tuning software. pre nistune by years... then burn the finished chie to an eprom and put it back in the ecu. nistune is fantastic, i just dont have it. Hmmmm... boost control issues, I will have to do some more testing on mine once it is back on the road but yep the standard gate hole is small. but i guess the rb30 swallows up most of what the turbo can deliver so the small gate is big enough.

actually there is a nice hx40 for sale on ebay at the moment. 17cm^ rear housing is Huge!!! and its a t4 flange but for a bigger engine or insane build it would be great! good for a hipo rb30. its brand new and only $500 at the moment.

hehe.. jokes mine is running on an r32 ecu i remapped and goes well. the wastegate flap on mine is unmodded and holds boost fine. what sort of mods were you thinking of doing to it? and would it be in an effort so stop creep or hold boost?

I know SK, they come with red top 270cc top feed. but if you are building a 30det based on a 33 head and you want a remapable ecu you end up with a bit of a bastardized combination like I have r32, rb25 na vct head, rb30 block, rb20 loom, sensors, ecu, side feed rb25 injectors

hey adriano, I would be guessing an HX35 with the small rear housing. probably the same as the one i have. 12cm2 or even 10cm2 I may be able to get a few of these over the coming months. they will be a bit more but still well worth it. they will be coming from a turck spares place near where i work. and i will be able to get them for about $500 if anyone wants them.

I have finished the turbo and managed to get zero shaft play using a combination of old and new bits... pretty sure it was the new thrust washer causing problems. but it now all together and i will put it back on the car this week. both front and rear oil seals were shot and my cooler piping is full of oil its going to need a good clean before it goes back on and my afm was FULL of oil!!! no wonder the damn thing was running rough and smoking. fingers crossed the new seals do their job

its going to be tight to find something that will fit in there. I would take out the nipples and braze some brass tube onto them that is about 40mm long and then have a olive/sleeve collet fitting connecting to a braided line. that way you can screw the original fittings in place and leave them in place and screw the lines in situ. hope this makes sense. just take the gate with the fittings to pirtek/enzed and tell them what you want to do probably cost a bit but it will work and withstand 100's of degrees. cheers!