CEF11E

some aftermarket diffs come with a key that activates the plates under load. the key is shaped like a triangle in a 1 way and like a diamond in a 2 way. I am unfamiliar with the stock centre but it must have a key of some sort. if you were to replace it with a less aggressive triangle it will lock the diff slower and more predictable under acceleration and not at all under braking. here isa very good link about different mechanical lsds. there are pictures of the different keys down the bottom of the page cheers

Do'h! I thought i was being cool

geez that sucks... is the head damaged? and the bore in no1 ok?

haha! bad timing. i just sold a pair for mint pair for $25 sorry.

i have a bride zeta and the plastic bits just pull out. but i know the ones you are talking about they are 1 piece either side, there will be little plastic tabs and will most prob break when you take them apart. just retrim the seat and glue both sides together.

m24 is a garret housing and the cartridge looks like a garret bust bearing item. looks like it may be an old to4e?

if i had not just bought an r32 that has to be stripped and rebuilt for dorifto i would have snapped this up, it looks great!

the rear trims are the lower ones not the a pillar trims, they are still in the car, i will have a look at them and let you know the condition from memory they are pretty good.

I have some genuine rocking horse shit for sale please see below and some really cheap parts i would like to get rid of... Interior - all parts are fro an R32 GTST 2 door: Complete set of unbroken unmolested R32 dash vents! - $75 R32 drivers side window combo switch! - $75 2 door carpet - $40 center console - $30 drivers seat in good condition passengers seat in good condition - $100 for the pair or $50 each complete front a pillar trims - $20 ashtray - $10 boot carpet, complete in good condition - $25 rear trims - $30 door trims - $30 roof lining - 30 heater fan, box plumbing - $50 Stereo gear: kenwood cd head unit with remote control - $50 cheap ass california gold cd headunit - $25 Mechanical/Exterior: r32 front rotors 280mm redrilled to 4x114.3 to suit non turbo stud pattern. - $50 coilovers standard and complete in excellent condition - $50 standard castor rods in good contition - $25 set of 6 coilpacks - pretty sure they are rb25 coilpacks will confirm - $100 GTR front bar fibreglass and missing bottom lip - $50 stock 14's from an R31 with tyres with tread 4x114.3 stud pattern - $0.01c pair of stock orange front indicators - $25 TOOLS: Airbrush compressor, airbrush and airline. compressor comes with regulator and moisture trap. - $100 for the whole setup! things I need and will trade parts for: pair of rear coilovers to suit R32 Manual gearbox, pedalbox, flywheel - even r31 box will do intercooler - any fmic dented ok. as long as it holds pressure steering wheel - even stock shit one will do boss kit to suit HICAS r32 all parts are located in Melbourne 10 min north of the city. if anything seems stupidly priced please let me know, really just want to help out anyone that needs some parts and beer money is always a bonus

these things are about as accurate as counting. i have seen another app using teh built in gps and tested on 2 phones at the same time in the same car. readings were over 1 second apart.

is your ignitor bolted down and earthed? also is the earth wire near the ignitor bolted down

get a z32 afm and have it the ecu remapped. run 17psi and you will have a nice quick r32. also replace that boost controller with a turbotech boost controller for faster spool and better boost holding. you could also get cam gears and have them set up.

they look to be a great turbo but even better is the borg werner... sp?? the hx35 would be my pick though and neither of them is small enough to low mount. the hx35 is good for 300rwkw anyway and should bring on full boost fairly early.

a lot of cars now run thermo fans as standard oe equipment. and if they have a shroud like the standard fan they work well. its when they do not have a shroud that they are inefficient. one case i know of was a brave 4x4 that had a thermo fan fitted and he gained about 40 k's per tank. thats a pretty decent fuel saving. provided its a decent fan with the power to draw enough air thru the radiator i think its the way to go. i am going to be replacing the fan on my track car with thermos and see how it goes.

looks like there was no oil supply. it looks like those scores are dry as a bone. that really is some nasty stuff right there. perhaps the oil galler is fouled up or got something lodged in it. or perhaps the head gasket you are usinng does not have provision for oil supply in the gallery between the head and the block. could be worse! that dosent explain your blow by tho. did you stagger the gaps in the rings when they were put in?

geez mate that is terrible news. i hope it is all ok. going by all your hard work its probably something minor. lifters perhaps? or did the belt skip a tooth or two?

massive write up very inspiring. i jsut bought a 32 that will be stripped fro track work as i cant bear to smash up the one i already have. you have done a lot of work in a really short time. looking forward to seeing it fnished! what a handy gf you have!

that's some good advice right there stick to 270rwkw with a stock bottom end if you dont have the time or money to replace it speak to sydneykid about this combo and its reliability at power levels. he has extensive knowlege

adjustable actuator and temp probe in the exhaust housing. looks like an early hks 2535. nice turbo and will make great power. you could bring spool on earlier with a turbotech boost controller and more actuator pressure. short of that you would have to swap for a smaller turbo. my vote would be run 17 psi with more preload on the wastegate and a 240rwkw auto you will have just stall it up for fast launches and kick down gears for boost

19 deg is based on running 98ron fuel with no more than 17psi in a twincam rb engine. i should know what i am talking about i have tuned over 30 of them not trying to start a war, just giving my personal experience. and you can run more boost but he asked what would be reliable.

if you have a stock bottom end here are my rules to give it a decent lifespan 1. No leaner than 11.8 to keep tempratures down and supress the chances of knock 2. Keep your timing below 19deg at and above peak torque. it's plenty of timing to make big power wth a long stroke, big turbo and large cubes. this will also prevent knock if your afr's are no leaner than above 3. keep your rev limit set to no higher than 6800. rb30's dont like high revs. the psiton speed in an RB30 is around 16% higher in a 30 than it is is a 20 as the piston has to travel further top to bottom of stroke. as for boost, limit it to 17psi if your comp ratio is close to 8.5:1 or 300rwkw whatever comes first. rod and piston strength becomes an issue over this level. remember boost is compounded by compression. so if static is 100 psi then 100psi +15 psi of boost will not mean 115psi don't have a calc but would be more like 170psi cheers!

looks like a garret verion of a hks 2535. and at 12 psi at almost 300hp from an auto that sounds almost spot on. if you take a photo of the centre from the top down someone may be able to tell you. 50 a/r comp side is perfect would say thr rear is .70 a/r and you need something with a smaller exhaust housing on the 20 to bring soppl time down. that turbo would be good for 350+ hp at 19 psi.

I was also thinking of doing the swap but have twice decided to give it a miss. my issues are 1. boost comes on to hard and fast and i wanted to bring on power more progressivly. and the solution is a more progressive turbo, better boost control and better tyres 2. fuel economy as i do a lot of 100km/h commuting. solution to this is to change the afr lo make it much leaner at cruise at 100. both of these will work but so will changing the diff ratio. I am going to get my hands on 3.2:1 and take the car to the salt flats one day. but for the road the 4:3 is ideal

this is the best value skyline i have seen all year and am in disbelif it is not sold yet. look how clean it is!!! the engine alone would cost you 4grand installed. and it comes with an rb25 box!! wish i had the spare cash!

i really want one of these too. i looked at a gtr lip but they are far to wide. need something for a gtst. can you please tell me if you find one?