CEF11E

jeebus!! got torque? that is awsome...

oooh yeahh!! lamps on chapel and also on high street in notrhcote. the best spit roast lamb.. also try KATIK on Barry road in broadmeadows/campbellfield. they are hardcore. the best is an Adana kebab they are roast over charcoal beads and are super smokey. plus they claim to be the best adana in aus or something, and i would not argue.

I have an Rb30det that maxes out the afm at 190 rwkw. but the car makes around 260rwkw. it can be done. my previous setup was an RB20 making 240rwkw and it maxed out the afm too. you can do it and it will max out the afm, there are a few things you need to consider. 1. will the car be used in a colder climate than when the tune is done? 2. are you planning to drift it? if your max target is 220rwkw and full boost is made after 4500rpm then it will be fine. otherwise go for a z32. it will not increase total power but it will make your tune safer. cheers

hehe cubes... your engine bay looks exactly like mine minus the dirt i got pulled over for a "random inspection" and was congratulated in being one of the responsible import drivers that leave their cars standard... he did not know he was looking at a 270rwkw rb30det hehe I love stockness...

there are always chance of plans I have decided to hold off on the upgrade. i gotta curb my spending habit for a while. I just seem to get bored and spend money on cars but i did a bit of thinking and decided 250odd rwkw is really enough for a daily driven R32.

excellent! i was pretty sure it would do the job. the turbo i am looking at is stupidly cheap at $900. i would then have to buy a gate $400 and dump/front pipe and lines. so all up i should be able to get in in and running for less than 2grand. but i am planning an injector, fuel pump and afm upgrade all at once. turbo gt30/40 $900 tial wastegate $400 custom dump/front pipe in stainless $400 braided turbo lines $200 custom afm/turbo pipe and turbo outlet pipe $150 z32 or q45 afm $250 bosch 040 fuel pump $220 detchwerks 770cc injectors $440 so just under 3g and a few hours of dyno time should do it. the car is being resprayed at the moment and will be back on the road it 2 weeks. it's going to look cool millenium jade r32gtst no sideskirts, no pods, non mspec front bar. guards rolled 2 inches 9 and 10" 3 piece mesh wheels powdercoated satin black I am hoping its going to look stock but F#@koff tuff. I will post some pics in 2 weeks when it is finished.

hey dudes.. I have just come across a cheap 30/40 with a 1.06 rear housing and really do not know much about these turbos at all. it is a new garrett item with no wastegate so i would have to buy an external gate and dump pipe aswell. my power goal would be 300rwkw and wanted to know what sort of boost i would have to run with this turbo to get 300rwkw and when it would start and have full boost by. also would the 1.06 be a bit big? because if i can get away with a .82 or .07 housing and still reach my target i would prefer to do that. alternately seeming as i work for ford I could get an OEM xr6 turbo for a good price. would i be better off going with one of those? I am looking for fast smooth power delivery not lightswitch style. i have a hiflow at the moment and it is all on in no time and chokes up after 5700.

sounds like an interesting combo, but you should really have it tuned rather than getting a base map unless you know what you are doing. i can help you out with a base map if you want one. pm me your email address

the respray is going to be a dropp off and pick up 2 weeks later deal they are doing the lot. it's going to be a budget job and will cost $1600 it won't be a full show job by any means but i have seen their work and it looks good. they will remove lights, bumpers, mirrors, trims, door handles and locks but will not pull out the glass. also just going to get the surfaces painted and door jambs, boot and engine bay will remain black. it's just a bit of a freshen up.

hehe thanks steve no probs kosmokram whenever you are ready just give me a buzz. Rekin, Hi mate that's funnny! i should have clued up to some sau dudes being there! yep the price includes chip, socket and tune. i have all the tools to do it on the spot and don't really need a dyno. only if you are changing drastically from stock. and it will give you a real before and after. yep the dyno reads low by quite a bit but the power curve was perfect. what did your car make?

hehe thanks dudes yep the brake setup is all in bits waiting to go on. I have a set of r32 m spec calipers adapters and 326mm rotors. just have to get some decent pads and lines. I am going to paint it without a kit. i really want it to look as low key as possible I might fit a garage sirius front lip and leave it satin black but that's it. I am still remapping ecu's and have done a few for people in vic so far. A basis remap and road tune will be $150 and will cover anything up to gtr injectors and a 2530/hiflow ect. anyone going to the dyno day today? its in the events section

yep that's what I ma running a sliding RB25 hiflow. its probably not doing my gearbox and diff a lot of good having that much power come on with such a kick,

I have built the same thing. I used a stock rb30e out of an R31 that was rebuilt 35000 k's ago. I just cleaned it and the top of the pistons and replaced all the gaskets and bolted on an untouched rb25de vct head. its running on all stock internal parts and makes 270rwkw and 650nm of torque. and it runs like a factory engine and has no signs of stress at all. It has been daily driven for nearly a year and has clocked up over 20,000 k's

hey all. I really don post here much and haven't really introduced myself. I have been in Vic for about 8 months and really like melbourne. I have been on sau for years and have had a few skylines. anyway I thought I could make a bit of a diary of my respray, wheels and probably interior, I have a 1993 model R32 that was a non turbo. factory black. I have since built a RB30DET for it using RB30e block and RB25de head. i built it myself and tuned it too. it is the first engine i have built and it was a great experience. anyway the 32 has some panel damage and it looks a bit tired so i have decided to respray it. atm its factory black, has no sideskirts or pods, factory gtst bar and bonnet. but th rear guards have been pumped 2 inches and it has 19x9's up front and 17x10's at the rear. I really don't like too much attention so i wanted it to look stock but aggressive. this is what it looks like now. except the guards are now pumped and it has a gtst front bar not GTR but i have decided to paint it millenium jade and powder the wheels satin black anyway is will be all done in about 2 weeks so i will post some pics when it has been done. cheers!

I was thinking of gettimg a pair of nitto 555's in 265/45/17 or a pair of federal 595 rs- r can anyone reccomend any others that are less than $300 a corner?

I have a set of fedral 595's 23545ZR17 treadwear 240. and usually run 38psi. but have tried anything from 30 to 40psi. they are on my R32 with the following relevant mods: RB30DET producing 270rwkw 650nm torque king low springs and fairly good shocks. cant remember if they are koni or bilstien, solid alloy cradle bushes, adjustable swaybar set to medium, 2 - way (might as well be locked) nismo sss 2 - way diff so my setup really should hold traction no problems. it did with the rb20det making 240rwkw but 1/2 the torque. now with the rb30det there is no traction in 1st, 2nd and it breaks loose in 3rd even in a dead strait line this means the car really is not that fast as you just cant get the power down. going lighter on the throttle increases lag and dosen't help. What I need is some more traction. now don't get me wrong the fedrals are pretty good but don't do the job. I can only go as wide as 265 before i get into clearance issues so i am looking at some 265's that can be used for street use. I don't mind if the treadwear is not the best. is there something wring with my setup? i know the alloy cradle bushed will not be helping but they eliminate axle tramp and i don't feel like pulling out my whole rear cradle at the moment. cheers!

THESE HAVE MADE MY DICISION FOR ME... mine will be all black with black dish and gold bolts. the car is being resprayed millenium jade. wooo hoo!

taking em apart is no prob I have air tools and FWRRT FWRRRRT! and they will be apart.

the rims are 9 and 10" they are bee-R and are not sandwich fit. so i should be able to take the center out without having to split the rim. hmmm guess i have to decide wither to leave the lip polished or coated. here i go hunting for some pics of wheels

I am just about to have my car repainted and am going a color change. so my wheels will be painted to suit the car. They are 3 piece an inner and outer and a centre. they are held together with about 60 bolts per wheel and i just had a tyre refitted and they are siliconed together as a seal. I would prefer to hve them powdercoated but am not sure if the silicone will be ok to be coated. what sort of tempratures in powdercoating baked on at?

I will go too will be there 100% is it ok if i just turn up on the day and pay? if i transferred money now it would be to late. my bank always takes like 4 days for funds to be transferred.

sounds like compressor surge. the turbo is developing more air at that rpm range than the engine can eat. but without a tune you really don't know what you are dealing with. who built the hiflow? i had an rb25hiflow on an rb20 and it was insane, 240rwkw and smooth as factory. you can tune the standard ecu to fix the problem if needed, pm me for more details if needed. cheers

yep. i have done some more reading about it and have found the same results. the car was making 6500 tractive effort with dips and bumps in the curve that look like wheelspin. the cae was tied down HARD and you could feel it trying to walk forward. the rear cradle was point of anchor and the wheels were between the rollers. Also I thougnt a car making that sort of tractive effort at 4000odd rpm would be making atleast another 50rwkw, sheets to come later

Hi All. I have just finished tuning my car and have come up with some curious results. firstly let me say i really don't care what the number is but it would be interesting to find out what the story is here. previously my car made 254rwkw and 420nm of torque on a dynodynamics machine when i first built the engine on a conservative tune since then i have retuned it and it is a lot faster and has a lot mor torque. this time it was done on a dynodynamics and it made a max of 220rwkw but it made 65onm of torque. the setup is an RB30det with hiflow, the tune was done in normal ramp mode not shoot6, tyre pressure was the same. temp probe was hanging it the air like normal, the dyno just reads 20% less than before, boost is now 18psi and before it was 16. i have added more timing and it runs 12:1 dead flat once it reaches full boost. the car is substantially faster and gtech time is 0.3 0 to 100 faster. so it is not my imagination. the only difference is that the car was heavily stralled down during the runs. this is because it was trying to climb off the dyno and the operator rightly doing the safe thing. anyone else have any experience with this?

also 26's have a different head bolt diameter