CEF11E

will do going to chane to some bigger brakes tomorrow and if i have time i will take some photos and post them up cheers

no just use the kaaz stuff that comes with the diff. it has a friction modifier in it, you use it for 1000 k's and then change it. and it will look metallic when you drain it as the plates have to bed in and alot of metal particals end up in the oil after the first 1000 k's then just change it to the stuff kaaz recommend. its not as bigger job as putting in an engine but its a hammers and blood type of job

wouldnt you be better off putting in a vg30dett out of a 300zx tt? i am thinking this because there was a vg30 powered navara. so x members and gearboxes would not be an issue

hey all, i am after a front lip for a stock non m spec front bar for an r32 gtst. please PM ME! if you have anything or even if you know where to get one. Cheers!

i have replaced diff centres quite a few times here is a bit of a run down.... you have to undo the following. drop off the exhaust suppurt the diff with a jack remove 5 or 6 bolts in the 1/2 shafts both sides. unbolt the 4 tail shaft bolts unbolt the 4 rear diff plate bolts wrestle out the 1/2 shafts from the cv's wriggle the tailshaft off lower the jack and you will have the centre out of the car. it weighs about 30kg changing the centre. remove all the bolts off the rear diff plate about 20 of them drain the oil tap out the 1/2 shafts remove the 4 carrier bolts from the u saddles get a block of wood and a hammer and wedge it under the centre and carefully tap it out keep the shims either side of the centre aside and mark them and the saddles l and R, top and bottom put the centre in the biggers mofo vice you can find and get the longest breaker bar in the world and remove the crown wheel bolts THESE ARE FUCIKNG TIGHT!!!!!! throw the centre in the bin attach the crown wheel to the new centre fit the bearings to the new centre unless already fitted place the centre back in the housing with the shims either side as they were. get the block of wood and hammer the centre back in. it needs a fair bit of force to go back in the housing. refit the saddles and tighten. tap the 1/2 shafts back in and make sure the circlips are still in the right place and the 1/2 shafts are going in the correct sides of the diff. turn the spindle that joins onto the tail shaft and feel if there is any freplay. pour 1.3 litres of good oil in the diff. kaaz diffs need special run in oil replace the rear cover and gasket refit the diff to the car. drive carefully to a large free carpark and spend the next hour doing tight circles and figure 8's. some at light throttle and some at harder throttle take the car for a drive and drop the clutch on a fast takeoff and see if it spins up both perfectly. learn how to deal with push mid corner understeer put up with girls winging that your car is broken when you are in carparks its a 1 day job if you have never done it before. you will need good tools and a huge mofo vice, probably about 6 beers and 1/2 a pizza to get the job done

I just had my 32 gtst painted millenium jade. its a really tough color but i now need to do a few more things to the car to make it look right. the thing with millenium jade is it needs a lot of black to contrast with. and orange looks dogs balls with it. so i have done the following rolled the rear guards over an inch powdercoated the wheels satin black headlights have been pulled apart and the insides painted satin black the corner indicators have been replaced with clear ones all trim has been painted black darkest legal tint has been applied to windows to finish it off it needs a black or carbon front splitter and a pair of 255-40-17 semis to go on the rear. it should look subtle but mean when finished and i have been holding off on photos till it is all done

I have met Jim and spoken with him at length. he takes a lot of pride in his work and knows what he is doing. he is not a hack he is a professional with over 30 years experience. If i was to get a new clutch i would have no hesitation in getting one from him. he does cluthes for v8 supercars, group a rally and all sorts of hipo applications. if it was a faulty cover or even 3 I am sure he will look into it and do what needs to be done. I hope it all works out.

i shimmed my stock lsd nearly 3 years ago and it was great for less than 2 weeks untill it started to open wheel again. i pulled it apart and it had cooked the viscous coupling and had fine metal paste all through the oil. not reccomended. I fitted a nismo sss housing in my centre and it always plants both down even when you don't want it to. clunk clunk clunk in carparks. and sideways action in the wet. also understeer pushing you into corners.. if you are going to get a mechanical diff... 1. if you are going to driver it on the road get a 1 way (only lock under acceleration) 2. wear it in properly... dont go drifting on it the day you install it as this will fcuk it big time 3. use the right oil with a limslip additive you can buy a centre and have it fitted and set up in your diff for $1500 dont shim the stocker its a shit option. its cheap and works for a small amount of time before it f*kcs the diff

the numbers have been ground off the compressor housing so visually it's hard to tell. there is a way to tell. take the elbow off that turbo and see if it bolts onto your rb20 turbo. if it does it is an RB20 turbo. if it dosent it is an rb25 turbo. cheers

this turbo wpold be good for 200 to 210 rwkw on an rb20det at 16 to 17 psi. you should keep it dude.

please check your pm cheers

hehe best of luck.. i am going to run 0deg toe in or out and .5deg neg camber and thats with 270rwkw. and i will be using 255/40/17 federal 595 rs-r tyres. as nothing i have done up till now will keep the bastards on the tarmac...

cosmo :0 looks great! we going to have to go for a cruise when its done... bayside and millenium R32's i have pm'd you my number.. cheers!

have just been a bit sidetracked... sorry for the no good photos. I just bought a new toy CBR250RR mmmmm! I now have 2 fast toys in the shed.

hehe. the 30det is already in there. the hubs and wheels stay. the wheels are 3 piece Bee-R 17x9 and 17x10's and are light and strong and would cost a mint to replace and i like them plus, i just spent a few hundred having them powdercoated and cleaned up. the 297mm rotors and calipers are going on soon. and trust me i need them. nothing wrong with forged 4 studs. they will do fine on a 1300kg car.

take a photo of it and post it up. i may be able to point u in the right direction :0

here are some last min pics. sprry for the shitty quality and bad compasition. I am jusing my mobile phone. NEVER buy a samsung digital camera. they are the worst cameras. stupid piece of shit... worst purchase ever. the photos make it look quite ordinary, but it looks mint! hope you likey... I will take some better photos as son as possible. you really can't see how much the rear guards are flared in the photos. next purchase will be a black front lip cheers!

yep paying visits to check progress twice a week helped and paying cash on delivery also helps. car looks awesome. its not a show job but looks good all the same. glad the remap is in and working abu enjoy the new GTR...

Woo Hoo! I pick up the car today. i just went and had a look at it and it looks hot! it's still in bits but will be ready to pick up this afternoon. the wheels are also done and will be going on tomorrow. I will take some pics tomorrow and post them up.

also, once you have finished the cut, use clear nailpolish to seal the cut edge slightly overlapping the clear coat. this will prevent it from splintering and cracking. cheers

awesome work mate. it's really nice to see some self built power. I bet it's 100% more satisfying knowing you built and tuned it yourself. and a big upps for the 30det

thanks for the responses. statements like don't be gay dont really help as i said i know nothing about bikes and don't know where to start. also waz, thanks for the advice and i know how dangerous they are. your concern is appreciated but i am pretty sure i made up my mind. my wife knows the risks and is happy for me to ride one. any othewr advice??

I have just decided to get my bike license and have always wanted a bike. I am 31 and 6ft tall 90kgs so nothing to boy racer. it will have to be big and comfortable enough. i am not sure if i will fit properly on a 250cc road bike like a ninja. I really know nothing about bikes but love them I was thinking of getting something like a motard or trail bike with road tyres because they look like a lot of fun. and you can take them off road aswell. but a road bike would also be fine really I am after advice on what is the safest, best choice for a new rider. it will be used for a commuter when i dont feel like driving the skyline. and i live in melbourne inner city so parking and quick commute is a bonus. can someone give me an idea of what they ride and what i can expect for a $3000 bike? I will most likely upgrade in 12 moths of having it and would like a duke monster but it will have to wait for a while. cheers!

hmmmm never have seen hat. as duncan said it sounds like you might have a lot of subframe movement. I also don't run circlips in my diff as i lost them and i have never had a problem with it.

Jeebus/!!! this is a BARGIN!! you are mad to sell it for that you should be asking 4 grand.