CEF11E

they are both tough. I have and slide a 2 door but i have also driven and hade a fair slide in a 4 door. if you are not partial to either just buy the best condition one you canfor the money you have to spend. 4 doors are a bit more forgiving to slide as they take a bit longer to get out but are easier to correct. the coupe is always a bit easier to sell and you will get more attention with it. but the 4 door is easier to live with day to day. 50/50 but i voted for the coupe

it all comes back to handling... I am going to change the setup on my car and was thinking of the following front +8 castor -1.5 camber +2 total toe out rear 0 deg camber 0 deg toe change cradle to max squat. the car has bilstiens, kinksprings, whiteline adjustable swaybar, alloy subframe bushes, 2 way mechanical, all urethane bushes. and has been set up for street with drift meets on the weekend. now that the 30det has gone in it breaks traction far to easily and needs to be altered to chieve more traction. best way i can think of doing it would be 0 toe and 0 camber on the back and change the angle of the rear cradle. am i heading in the right direction?

sorry long since gone

121,000 desired final price. not really that bad for the car you get

I suspected the 20det was thicker. thanks simon. its either a flushed stock 20det or a new JJ one. I really dont want anything aftermarket looking in my engine bay so i willl hunt for a 20det one

I need some bits and peices to finish off my comversion. cam wheel bolts x 2 from rb20, rb25 oil return from front exhaust side of head from RB25DE or DET cas bolt x 1 radiator RB20DET or better rb20det water temp sensor if anyone has any of the bits mentioned please PM me Thnaks!

hey all, my skyline has gone from RB20DE to RB20DET to RB30DET and still has the factory rb20de radiator and will need replacing due to summer. Is the RB20DET item larger and will it perform better? will any other nissan radiator with better cooling capacity fit? Is the just jap aluminium unit any good and a true bolt on? I really want to keep it stock looking so a standard unit would be preferred. Thnaks

I have a set of fedral 595's 235/50/17 and 9" rears. I am going to get 265's when the ones on there are ready to be replaced. also will get the camber set to 0deg. stock manifolds conservative timing and fairly rich tune ( 11.5:1 ) its a really touchy combination of turbo and engine. especially with a 2 way lsd, anything more that slight throttle around a corner and it will start to slide. the alloy bushes hold the cradle still but not sure if they are the best setup. if i was to do it again i would replace the stockers with urethane items.

this is really going to sound stupid, but i am having serious traction issues. my rb30det has the following rb25 de hear r33 vct rb30e bottom end rebuilt to na specs rb25 sliding hiflow tuned ecu, injectors 3' blah blah.... built it myself. tuned it myself. it is not making monstrous power. 264rwkw. and rev limit of 6500 rpm. but the torque figure is huge. even with 235 decent tyres as soon as it hist 4000rpm full throttle in 1st 2nd and even 3rd it will begin to loose tractiion. even with careful application and in a straight line its really not that practical and causes dramas for daily use. yes the exhaust housing is too small i know. but i do not want to increase lag. at the moment full boost of 17~18 psi is around 2900rpm. perfect. i have lowered rear tyre pressure and not a lot of difference. I have a very tight lsd and whiteline springs, swaybar and solid alloy cradle bushes. that are set up to neutral. ride quality is very good and the car handles quite well and is not overly stiff.

I have done a basic run in tune for 10psi and have everything running smoothly. At 10 psi it makes amazing power and is all in by 2800rpm with a slide hiflow that was making full boost on the 20det at 4000 rpm and it feels fantastic to drive. bucket loads of torque and throttle response is fantastic. I have a few annoying things to sort out. the water temp sensor from an RB25 does not work on a 20 computer. so i have to track a 20det one down. one of the cam seals is leaking. bugger... covers, balancer, camgears, rocker covers, timing belt off to replace it. it is just a drizzle but it has o be done. I have also had to fabricate some bits that i will replace with original bits further down the track, I ran out of time and had to put the engine in with the original unmodded mounts. so the bonnet would not close. I removed the bonnet heat shield and cut out small sections of reo where needed and refitted the sheilding and it now fits with 3mm washers between the hinges and bonnet. I will get the mounts lowered 10mm later and all will be good. she looks stock as a rock and pulls like a cut bastard! hehe the whole thing cost me about double what i budgeted (this always happens with conversions) but really was worth it. I am moving to VIC on the weekend and will not get to tuning till I am settled but will be aiming for 270rwkw with instant response. its still a street car and needs to be daily driven so i am not going to crazy.

really nice build and photos. I have just finished mine and was too lazy to take photos off boost torque is amazing! I cant wait to up the boost and get it tuned!

you will find they will be running very little timing. 9:1 is great for a street engine running less than 18psi 8.5:1 is good if you plan on running anything over that 8:1 is really a bit low for a street driven car I think with high CR and high boost you are walking a much finer line. water/methanol injection can be used to supress detonation whilst keeping a nice timing map.

Well she is in and running rough as guts but running... mr rbman you my friend are owed beers just before you posted this this afternoon I looked at an RB photo and realized exactly what i had done. I then had to sit at work and look interested for the next 3 hours... race home swap them over and ALIVE! it will not hold an idle and misses loke no tomorrow but it is running. tuning and testing will commence in a few days I have had enough for now

thanks dudes pulled the timing cover off and made sure the cas key is correctly set to the cam key. the afm is plugged in and there is fuel getting to the rail. I am starting to think it is of 2 things. 1. there is no spark. because i have tried advancing and retarding the cas and no difference. and i can hear the injectors pulsing. 2. I have buggered up the injector firing order while making the new injector loom. this wil be a bastard to diagnose and will mean pulling off the plenum again. I will make sure i am getting spark tonight. also battery would be going flat but seems to turn over the motor fine. I am sure it is something silly. it will get there. Also how long should you have to turn over the motor with ignition disconnected to get oil pressure?

it won't fit in a million years I have tried it. the rail is nearly twice as high than the side feed rail with the injectors fitted and it will not fit under the plenum. also none of the bolt holes line up. i even looked at modifying it but there is just no way.

I am using the following bits RB30E bottom end RB25DE VCT head from an R33 - removed VCT solenoid and used the hole to feed oil to the head - stock plenum R33 R33 injectors R33 AAC valve R33 tps, (all sensors on the head are R33 R32 CAS R32 ECU remapped to suit the 370cc injectors Will try the timing light tonight. hmmmm wake up at 6am go to work finish work at 4pm. go home work on car till 1am. sleep for 5 hours - repeat for 3 weeks... damn i am tired...

After a lot of hard work and long nights my RB30det is now in the car. I have spent a few hours tonight trying to get it started and have not got there yet. this is frustrating Fuel pump working - check. CAS working - when i remove it and rotate it with the ignition on the injectors click and the fuel pump turns on everything is wired up bar 1 plug on the AAC valve. the r32 loom has no provision for it. I am still working out the best way to test spark. any ideas? I have had to use R33 turbo injectors and it involved cutting up the original loom and grafting in the plugs but I have done it before for GTR injectors and no problems. the motor turns over fine just does not start when the crank is set to o deg btdc the cams line up with the locator pin marks perfectly. so its fuel or spark i am missing or some electrical gremlin somewhere. if anyone has any ideal please shoot them my way. my goal was to have it running by tomorrow night. so so tired...

hehe all 3 previous owners of this car are reading as we speak????

Hey All, Just a really quick one. with an RB25 head, am i likely to suffer interference with both intake and exhaust cams set 1 tooth advanced? this would mean both cams are advanced approx 7 degrees. I am thinking, VCT will advance the inlet cam 20 deg + 7.5 for the extra tooth to 27.5 deg is a lot and I don't have a profile for the cam so just wanted to check with someone that knows. I am not interested in performance aspects as the car only needs to be driven to perform some other diagnostics in its current state.

Do'h! that's no good tom I will ask around and see if anyone wants a sorted drift pig. what soet of money are you chasing? How are you

bunch of S%*T... they should be accountable for their turbos. Do you think Garrett would do the same? no they would honor their warranty. not cool sorry to hear that.

Hey Michael, the TE37's will not pass anything that sits outside the guard is an instant fail. put the 17x7.5's on. it will not matter if they are in the guard quite a bit. cheers

Ok, Ok, gimmie 1/2 an hour to convince the crazy freinds and the bikini twins to move to Melbourne with me :laughing-smiley-014:

Where have you people who are using R33 heads been plumbing you oil return pipe from the front right hand side of the head? do you get a "T" peice and blumb it into the turbo drain into the sump? cheers

hey VIC dudes I have just taken a new job in Melbourne and need to get some things sorted pretty quickly. I originally planned to move down in January but my new job needs me there on about the 15th of October so I need a place to live for a few months till I find the right property. I will be working in Broadmeadows and am planning to live around Macleod, Preston, Coburg area so I am reasonably close to work. I would be interested in sharing a house or renting a room around the area and like most people on here I need a garage or at the least off street parking. I am 30, fairly neat and work in Television/I.T. I am a good cook and also tune and work on cars in my spare time. I am a non smoker and don't have any crazy friends the are likely to come around and break stuff or party till 2am on a Tuesday If anyone has something available please PM me a phone number and we can talk Cheers!