CEF11E

buy a bolt on hiflow and forget the manifold and wastegate. a bush bearing hiflow can be had for under $1000 and will bolt right on and make 250rwkw, it will look stock and retain nissan housings. it may not look "fully sic" bit it will work

that is no good. i have had a car stolen before and i learned my lesson. I now have top of the line alarm with 4 points of immobilization alarm hidden, siren hidden, kill switch, ear bleeding screamers, insurance and a license to beat car thieves. hehe... the bastards deserve being caught and taught a lesson they will NEVER forget.

heya mate, this is pretty comon with gtr injectors. you just need to replace teh leaking ones. you dont even need to take out the fuel rail to do it. A full set will cost about $300 or $50 each. have a look in the for sale section. I have had to replace mine before. it's no big drama, just look at the plenum and make sure there are only fuel stains around the 1 you think is leaking. labour wise if you are not doing it yourself I would estimate 2 hours max. so around 160 for labour and $100 for a couple of injectors.

that looks like the table i have seen before where did you get it? Cheers

Looking at the Z32 ECU I have tried to come up with a conversion table to ms and came up with zip! I have tried longer dwell on standard coils and had better burn and more torque but prone to detonation and shorter dwell and less prone to detonation but guaranteed way to fry coils. From what I have gathered there is 2 increments per RPM scale and they seem to differ. by best guess would be use the RPM scale as a guide and devide each increment by 2 for your 32 points. As for dwell values there was a table somewhere I will have a look and see if i can dig it up. but the results were a bit shady. there was actually a brand of coild called FET. and they gave specifications that indicate they were designed for a min of 2ms and no less. sorry can't be much help there are numbers of GTR's in japan making 800ps with standard coils so they know something we dont... high on painkillers right now sorry if my explination is not the best...

downloaded them both and have watched teh 1991 race. crompton is a funny dude

My wife asks me what we should buy to make the car drift better I was told I needed a hobby while she was overseas so I am building an RB30DET. this means filling the garage with car parts and even a spare car.. she is cool with it I guess she has to be she has no choice.

I have an xforce stainless catback ,stainless cat and stainless front/dump on mine and there is no drone and it flows very well. it was as good quality as the jap branded ones i looked at and i would buy on again.

white smoke is never good

Hey Abu, Firstly replace the fuel filter just to be sure it is not blocked. Have a loot at your AFM and check it is on good nick. you also might want to pull the intercooler off and check that it isnt full of oil. Also take your ECU out and have a look and make sure it has not been chipped and you are running a jap tuned .rom Most of the jap tuned roms i have seen run ridiculous timing. Cheers

14 to 16psi will be perfectly acceptable anything over that and you will need a FPR . I will put you down for one

looks like R&R to me aswell. it pulls a heap of timing out as soon as you hit 13psi and then when it tapers off again the ecu starts to behave again. I hope you did not get charged for that "tune"

I = down for drinking and GTR racings we need someone with a plazma

18 psi on the standard injectors with a hiflow from slide will be well and truly over what the injectors can supply. If you added a FPR you should be able to run that sort of boost with a slide hiflow. I can not guarantee it, but many have dune it with success.

Toasty, don't touch the controller without having it on the dyno. a small percentage of gain can be a big boost increase with RB20 hiflows. gimmie a call and i will help u sort it out.

yes but you would need to do it on a dyno to get the correct result. you will find by placing the boost nipple after the turbo elbow you will get a more linear control. this is quite often the case with small housing hiflows. not really a problem just needs a bit of tuning.

the boost tapering off is not a restriction it is related to the controller setup and I am betting the controller is getting its boost reading from a nipple on the front of the compressor housing. if placed past the elbow by about 30cm you will get the most stable reading

hehe I can offer a bit of advice, The dip in the AFR's have been put there for a reason however they are a bit over emphasized. I will explain... The dip to 10.5:1 happens at exactly 4000rpm, this is where you are hitting full boost. with a turbocharged engine you will be at peak volumetric efficancy at full boost and peak torque almost instantly after. you are most likely to suffer detonation at this point so adding fuel (to a certain extent) will reduce the possibility of detonation. this is what has been done. also just by looking at the power curve you can see that timing has been reduced between 4200 and 5600 rpm. seeming as you are running 16psi as a rule of thumb with 98 octane BP ultimate you should be running around 18deg at peak torque and then 19 and 20 deg in the following cells. this is due to the engine becoming less volumetrically efficant at higher RPM (that combined with the fact that boost is tapering off) I would be happy to have a look at the remap for you and see what needs doing to correct it. (QUICK EDIT)... you should be able to safely run more boost. looking at the way boost is ramping up you are only just in the efficacy of your compressor. 17psi would make a lot more power especially if you were able to hold it to redline

I am also considering getting a VG30 housing on my hiflow. I have a slide RB25 hiflow that is going on a RB30DET. as slide is no longer doing hiflows I would have to get the VG30 housing machined to fit elsewhere. anyone have any idea what sort of cost is involved? I have rung a few places and incl gcg and got a lot of different answers. The reason for keeping the hiflow is wanting to retain the stock look and I am not going for any world records. 260rwkw will be fine. currently the hiflow makes 240 on my RB20.

What would you like to know? the dyno sheet above for 204.2rwkw is from the remap with the modifications listed with 98 octane BP ultimate, speed limit is removed RPM limit is 7300rpm. AFR's are 12:1 response and power is improved timing is increased to produce more peak torque and power pls let me know exactly what you want to know

A lot of PM's and a lot of questions for all those that are interested but need to ecu modified PM me. i have a list of electronics shops that will fit it for you on the spot for a few $$$. and yes $150 includes the remap for all these that have asked

Thanks BAMR33. I have pretty much got it worked out. that photo shows turbo oil and water return and also another return from the front of the head that is tee'd into the turbo oil drain. but from what I can see no VCT I have drilled and tapped the VCT feed to M8. and will be putting a grub screw in there. I have also drilled and tapped a new supply point in the VCT gallery on the front of the head about 50mm higher that it has been blocked off. I just need to get a few fittings and it will all be sorted. I havent got my gaskets yet. but will take a lot of photos of the build for others.

enjoy it for a year with no more mods. when the 20 pops build a larger capacity engine. it is so much easier to squeeze power out of a larger capacity to begin with. don't waste any more on it it is already a more than capable package just enjoy it

thanks Craved, is the other whole the VCT return and if so do i have to block it aswell and plumb a return in? I will not be usibf VCT now and never will so i am looking for the simplest solution.

My head arrived today. complete RB25DE from R33 with VCT. 100% complete except for injectors and fuel rail. I took the cam covers off and the head is a clean as a whistle. Would someone be able to confirm a few things for me. please bear with me, I am 60 pages of the way there I have taken a pic of the front of the head and highlighted the area I believe to be correct. Is it OK to tap a M8 or 10 thread and put a grub screw in here instead of welding? locktite would hold it in place. then drill in the front of the head that lines up with the gallery and tap a fitting in that will be supplied from the OPS. I have read the thread and am about to go ahead with these mods and just want 100% confirmation before I bugger the head Also what to I do with the other gallery highlighted?