CEF11E

I have had a 4.3:1 and a 4.08:1 in my R32 with big turbo and can give a bit of feedback.. my 0 - 100 went up when i fitted the 4.08:1 as the rate of acceleration was slower but each gear was taller. the car did not feel any slower but i lost 1/2 a second. Over the 1/4 mile this would probably be a lot less as the taller gears would produce more load and keep you on boost slightly longer but for road use the 4.3:1 suits the R32

If you are after a cheap 1, 1.5 or 2 way give sss automotive a call. the guys there are pretty good and will not sell you crap. they will sell a centre or complete housing with 1/2 shafts from $600 to $900. depending on what they have.

S14 diff is 4.1

I can 2nd that. I have an R32 with the following suspension. whiteline springs and unknown shocks front castor arms whiteline adjustable rear swaybar set to medium. the car drifts like a champ. no front bar needed.

hey Eiji, drifting the R31?

just some of my observations... 1. you are maxing out your AFM and by the looks of it the wiring from the AMF has a bad ground as if it is earthing out somewhere. this is possible causing your surging. 2. you are running way to much timing at full boost possibly to much between 2000 and 2600 rpm. cheers!

In the 2nd pick the red line is the before tune power not the AFR

hehe done mate! you can pick it up when ever you like, I will pm u my number

heya dudes.... I have the drivers seat out of my 1994 r32 gtst that has been pulled out for an upgrade and i have nowhere to put it. It's Grey and in pretty good condition no major stains and no rips. it comes with the standard rail first to post in this thread stating they will pick it up, it's theirs... donation of a few beers would also be welcome!

hehe thanks for the plug haysey I would just like to add a bit of information and you can choose to dismiss or take it on board as you like. Tuning an engine is not something to be done with a few seconds thought. your engine is a valuable piece of equipment and needs to be respected. yes you can buy a remap for your car from ebay but it's a bit like buying a kebab late at night when you are drunk... do you really know what you are getting? There are people that you can go to and get a professional result: Dr Drift - Melbourne. really knows what he is doing as is a pioneer, has been doing it for a long time and he is a professional from all the results i have seen. Speedlab - Jeff - Brisbane? Jeff also knows nissan ecu's backwards and has a lot of proven results and is great to talk to. Toshi - from these forums also has a lot of results and has been tuning for years since the old schooldays of fj20's in japan. Yoshitokio - from these forums also has some proven results and has tuned 300rwkw+ cars using the standard nissan ecu. All these tuners will do a top notch job and you can feel safe shelling out a few bucks to get your pride and joy tuned safely and with fantastic results. they all differ from the fly by night operations that sell a one size fits all tune for $80 bucks from who knows where. I am by no means a professional and tune for the love of results and interest in performance nissans and I am happy to help forum members out. I have a lot of love for the RB as do all the guys listed above. I have no knowledge of the tunes sold on ebay and do not wish to comment on their merit. But ss the saying goes... pay peanuts, get monkeys... there is a lot that needs to be done right when tuning nissan ecu's. Is the chip being used the correct NS rating? Has the TP scale been set to suit your mods? what has the tp limit been set to? What has the rev limit been set to? Do you have any idea what the timing you will be running be? seriously ask these questions, it's your engine after all. Thanks for reading CEF11E

I have a new 2 way and it is not noisy at all. you can feel the clunks when driving up carpark ramps and when doing fast 90deg turns but apart from it makes no noise, the car however feels completely different to drive. I would not recommend having one on the road if unskilled driver is to use the car. exiting a corner and accelerating even at the apex will induce drift and a lot of it. the Kaaz 2 way are noisy i have heard quite a few people say. the diff i just fitted is a nismo sss I used penrite 80/140 oil with limslip addetive. the oil you use will make a big difference to the noise. I couldn't be happer with my new diff but they are almost $500 more than the Kaaz

erghhhh.. I have a problem much the same. I was sold an R31 import turbo gearbox and fitted it to my R32. the speedo drive on the r31 looks exactly the same as the R32 except they have different size cogs and the screw thread that holds the speedo on the r31 sender is busted. the r31 cog is smaller than the r32. a performance place told me i can just put the r32 one in there and it will work. bit the cog is bigger. also how much oil will i loose if i take the speedo sender out? i just filled the box with $130 oil and i would prefer not to loose it. Cheers

Hey all, I have managed to collect 2 R32 gearboxes and need to get rid of them both. Gearbox no1. is an RB20det box that came in my car when i bought it. and it has worn 2nd gear syncros. it will crunch if you change over 3500rpm from 1st to 2nd and from 3rd to 2nd. I tried redline lightweight shockproof in it and it made a bit of difference but still crunches. the bearings are still in good condition and the box did not whine at all. would be a cheap fix for a good condition box. $50 Gearbox no2. I bought this box off a forum member and was assured it was in excelent condition. it was most certainly not..... from the day i put it in it made bearing noise. the syncros are all fine and it changes very smoothly but the bearings are completly shagged. when i drained the oil there was little bits of bearing in the oil MMMMM! once again if you put a set of bearings in it you would have a good box for cheap. $50 Make 1 good box out of 2 for $100 and have a spare gearset! Wooo Hooo! Also have for sale a viscous LSD centre. only fitted to my car for about 3 months (mind you that includes 7 drift days Yikes!) it is for an R32 and will also fit an R33, S14 ect. it was starting to open wheel so it was removed and replaced with a 2 way more suited for drift duties. When i bought it it had only done 50odd thousand k's I have removed it from the housing and the viscous centre, splines, spider gears and all are in excellent condition. I have 2 brand new shims from nissan ready to put in it and once done it will be super tight and should feel like a mechanical 1.5 way. I also have a housing, pinion and backplate and crownwheel (entire diff - halfshafts) $100 for the lot All located in Canberra. will post the diff centre but not the gearboxes.

Nismo SSS 2way

Wooo Hooo!!! 2WAY! 2WAY1 2WAY! the diff is in and feels fantastic. I have just finished fitting my nismo sss 2 way. i bought a center and fitted it in my original housing. it was a bastard of a job but was well worth it. Getting the diff out from under the car only took 45min and was easy apart from the bit where i dropped it on my little finger... then getting the center out of the housing was impossible till i decided to use a bench vice. smartest thing i did all day then out with the viscous, remove the crown wheel (also very hard) and swap it on to the new center. next came the spacers either side of the new center and putting the new center in the housing was a bit fiddly then getting the 1/2 shafts in was an absolute bastard... i got the short one in 1/2 an inch and it got very very stuck... about 65 bashes later it was back out and i noticed the c clip in the new diff was too wide to fit with the 1/2 shaft thank you very much mr nismo... after figuring that out they popped in with small taps. i put the end caps on and filled the diff with 1.5 litre of penrite 80/140 synthetic and limslip additive. gooped up the rear cover and fitted it and had some lunch. fitting the diff back in was as easy as taking it out and it was done! took the car for a drive and noticed immediately the difference... it does not skip in car parks or tight turns but you can feel the difference cornering even at low speed turns. the car now under steers accelerating around roundabouts but i can deal with that that's what you get with a 2 way. This is not really a job i would recommend for your ave ridge backyard mechanic but is doable. the preload on the diff is perfect as is the backlash. seeming as i was quoted $700 to fit the center i am happy i was able to do it myself

cool diff going in this weekend... I will leave the pinion alone

A lot of people will disagree with me here. but in terms of boost stability and simplicity i will allways recomend a turbotech boost controller. mine holds 18psi as a dead flat line...day in and out. no electronic parts to fail, be stolen or set. they cost almost nothing and if you are after a set and forget controller they are simply the best. Once you start looking at larger capacity engines that spool turbos quickly an electronic item is good to allow boost delivery to be more linear and not come on like a bomb, there are a lot of excellent boost controllers out there but do not dismiss the turbotech. it is a good simple invention and will do just as good at holding boost at a flat line. if you want a high and low boost setting these are not for you. I had a profcb in my car and removed it and replaced it with a turbotech and will never go back to an electronic item Just some food for thought

Glad you are happy with the results paul there is a dip in power as you can see due to the boost controller spiking and then dropping back down, this is due to still having a fairly restrictive (standard front/dump pipe and standard cat) combined with a super efficant. As you can see boost comes on in very short space of time and comes on hard. the compressor is only just in its efficant operating range at 16psi and there is a lot left in it. Paul, I think i have found out what the issue with the boost controller is I will pm you the details... We settled with 200rwkw with 12:1 afr's due to still running stock injectors. With a set of GTR's and new front pipe and a cat 220~240 would be realistic

putting the car on the dyno without the remap will acheive nothing you will not be able to adjust fuel and only timing by cas. get the remap done if you can

I am also not made of money but i got my priorities straight I will be going and giving the car a workout.

cool a shower and 2 beers later and i feel a whole lot better. I had a couple of other minor bits... 1. the dumb ass the did up the tail shaft bolts last time did them so tight they stripped the nuts so i had to get under the car with an angle grinder to get them off. so for now i an using non Nissan hardware store bolts (no boost fro me for the week) i will be getting new ones and put them in next weekend. so seeming as i have to undo the tail shaft next weekend I might aswell take the diff out and put in the shiny new Nismo SSS mechanical 2-way I have sitting here 2 questions... 1. what size it the diff pinion gear bolt under the tailshaft ? because i may have to adjust the backlash after putting the new center in. 2. what sort of oil is best used with a nismo 2 way... i can't get nismo oil in canberra. will any limslip diff oil do the job?

hehe get this I got really lucky and this will be gold information for anyone that ever has this problem... If you take the reverse switch out of the box the reverse selector fork will be right there in the little hole and it will be facing the front of the car towords the bell housing. if you get a small sharp object like a stubby screwdriver and put it in the hole untill it stops. this will be the selector fork. push it backwards towards the rear of the car with a levering action. the fork will push bact to its original position and this will put the car back in neutral. you will need a really short screwdriver to get between the gearbox and the transmission tunnel but it works!!!! then just put the reverse switch in and happy days! it saved me a whole lot of trouble and the 6 hours it would have taken to get the box out and back in again... Thanks all very much for your help.

GEarbox in happy not OK so i got the box back in with relative ease... and it all bolts up nicely. THE DAMN THING IS STUCK IN REVERSE!!!!!! here is exactly what it is doing when the car is in Neutral with the clutch in it is stationery when the car is in neutral with the clutch out the car reverses ( so it seems to be stuck on reverse ) you can select 1st and 2nd but if you are rolling forward with the clutch in as soon as you let it out you are stationrey as the car seems to be in reverse and 1st at the same time. The box was rebuilt supposedly and has new gasket material between all the parts and came with warranty from the supplier. When i bought the box i asked for an RB20DET box from an R32gtst however the box seems to be from an RB20det powered R31. not sure if this matters.

Righto going to try and tackle it myself this morning and if i get stuck you are all coming round to my place for a gearbox/bbq beer party

Hey all. I have just taken out my gearbox and am putting a new one in and am having dificuilty getting it back on. I have the car on reamps on the front wheels and the back wheels still on the ground. I am using a trolley jack and balancing it on the lug on the bottom of the box and it seems to be pretty clost to balance there. to get the box out we pulled it back about 4~5cm and rotated it so the starter bulge was closer to the ground so it would not foul on the transmission tunnel. but can not seem to get it back in. last time i replaced a box myself was almost 10 years ago in an old celica and we loostned the engine mounts and tilted the engine backwards. can someone that has done it or does it for a living give me some advice on teh best way to get it back on. I have got the spline to sit just in but couldn't get it on. i wiggled and jiggled and still no go any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks!