CEF11E

the uni joint steering spacer is a really good mod. your turn in feel is highly improved and as is steering feedback and response. you will get a bit of power steering noise but it's only when parking. If your wheels are not ballanced you will feel it right away with the spacer fitted. Drifting the car is a lot more enjoyable with this spacer fitted.

Hey all I have just been quoted $250 for an oil pressure switch ( the one that sends the reading to the guage) and think that is pretty rediculous... They gave me 2 part numbers... 2507030P01 2507055560 Can someone tell me where to get a replacement at a decent price? and what the part number is? I do not want another aftermarket guage in the car the stocker looking the better

Cold weather = higher air density = just reaching mass air flow sensing. bet you live in a cold area...

Hey Roy, I have just gone thru the same issue as you with spacers and have found a solution. My front wheels are +42 offset 8" wide with wide case 235 45 series 17" and my tyres were scrubbing on the outside edge on my upper wishbones. So I needed some spacers. I had dodgy slip on ones put on and the steering shake was shocking... I was in Sydney last week and went to tempe tyres and they made up a set of hubcentric 10mm slip on spacers to suit my wheels. The best part is they fitted insert shank nuts that go through the wheel and through the spacer and have almost the whole thread holding the wheel on the stud (at least as much as the standard nuts. the wheels now fit perfectly and no steering shake. pm me if you would like a photo...

Get an Na S13 and put a RB30E in it and turbo it like fatz. If I only had 5g to start that's what i would do

Indianna

Quite often when you get a really good deal on some 3 peice wheels you overlook the fact that the offset is not exactly what you need. I bought a set of wheels that are +42 and ideally they need to be +35 to +37 so I need spacers. At the moment I have some rubbish ones that look like they were made out of tin foil and the holes are even elongated so they are multifit. the wheels are perfectly balaced and without spacers there is no wheel shake but with them there is noticable steering shake at 100kmph so the spacers are not holding the wheel flat on the hub. (what a suprise) So I need a pait of hubcentric 5mm to 7mm 4x114.3 spacers that are a flat peice of steel. Does anyone have access to a lathe and if geven specs could make a pair up for me? happy to pay

Yep Next time perhaps i will not need to bring about 11 wheels Reece, I have all those bits sitting there for you. gimmie a call as soon as you want to pick em up!

this thread has lost it's mojo...

Please sir, can i have some dish with that?

haha!!! dude!!! you rock MS paint skillz yo!!!!! was kinad hoping for photoshop but you get an A for effort thanks! gave me a good laugh too

heya all I have had my skyline for 6 months and changed wheels 3 times. I loved the last ones but was getting traction issues with the thinner tyres so i sold them and bought these. I am thinking htey would look good with black centers can someone please make the spokes black and leave the nuts gold? or even do both? cheers! these wheels are pretty cool but i think they would look better black with dish!

Hi All Firstly let me inform you all that by no means am I a professional tuner. and do not wish to take any business away from those that are such as Dr Drift or Jeff from speedlab. I have developed my interest and skills in tuning from my own desire to learn and a few years of practical experience. I have a technical computer background and spent a few years developing single board computers and industrial appliances for the Australian industry and learned all about programming and EPROM's so naturally when i bought a car the first thing i would do would be pull the ECU apart and find out what sort of smarts it had and would read the ignition and fuel maps. I had also been modifying performance cars for a few years and had developed a good sound mechanical knowledge. So I decided to seek the skills of a professional tuner to teach me the ropes and ins and outs of tuning turbocharged engines. I hung around for about a year and was involved in the tuning of mainly RB powered cars. during this time I was always fiddling with my own car and always on the quest for more power. Interest started to develop from friends and I started to tune their cars. I have been doing this now for 2 years and have had no disasters and excellent results. I do not push a tune to the limit to squeeze every kilowatt out, rather develop a progressive and responsive smooth tune throughout the entire rev range not just WOT that many seem to do. I currently have a R32 skyline with an RB20det producing 240odd rwkw and it retains full factory idle and fuel economy. it also looks dead near standard. I am happy to talk to anyone that is interested in having their car tuned and I will give you my honest opinion about what is the best option, your power goals and expectations. I can give some numbers but really only from my own car. I have tuned ECU's for forum members but have not recorded who they are but if they are kind enough to post up some results i would be grateful. CeJay will be getting his car tuned when and if the new turbo will be going on and i am sure he would be happy to share his results when finished. I have also recently done a mail order tune for Haysey so pm him and see what he has to say I am not a non profit organization but am not really in it for the money either so at this stage if you wanted a tune done by me you would be paying $150 for the time it takes plus dyno time at the rate of $100 per hour ( I do not profit from this you can book the dyno and meet me there) I have been getting a lot of inquiries since the power fc has stopped production in certain models. I have the facility to map trace, datalog and everything needed to to a correct and safe tune. I can tune anything from completely standard cars to bigger turbo, injectors, AFM, cams, larger capacity, nitrous and more. usually most remaps are mild upgrades as people that tend to rebuild with forged bottom ends and cams usually want to splash out and get an autronic. Thanks for reading! Please be aware that I do not tune R33 skylines due to the chip the ECU uses to store the maps. I do not have the equipment to tune R33's. I can remap RB20DET RB26DETT RB30E VG30DETT VG30DET VG20DET CA18DET.

Hey roy Are your castor bushes in good condition? I have found a similar situation at much lower speeds. under hard braking in a straight line going from 140 to 60 in a short distance the rear end squirms around. and am about to replace the castor arms with adjustable ones that use spherical bearings. I know a lot of people say don't use them on road cars but i have decided to give them a go.

I bought an R32 for 8k. and it is a fantastic car.. body is perfect interior is perfect and it is manual and turbo. it was a NA form factory and had the RB20det installed. gearbox was crunching and it had NA diff and brakes. I have upgraded the box, brakes and diff plus about every single part in the car but even in the condition it was in when i bought it it was a really nice car. I looked for a couple of months to find a really clean body that was fairly cheap to start modding. I now have a 240rwkw gtst with LSD GTR 324mm brakes good handling and all up it has cost me less than 14k. but it was a lot of work. If you are prepared to do all the work yourself and spend bit by bit every month you will get what you want. I am saving $2,000 a month for a house so buying anything on credit for me was a NO NO. you can buy something fun for 8k but it will take a couple of months to find a good example and your choices will be limited. and my advice would be buy something that has not been modded because a medded 8k car will be thrashed...

pm'd details cheers

Federal ss595 In 235/45/17 Dry:10/6 Wet: 10/5 Value:10/10 $135 Each Their turn in is a bit averidge but mid corner grip is pertty good. close to the limit they become very noisy and skip around a bit. but they take a beating and for $540 for a complete set they are excellent value. not the best tyre but they last well and have a good rim protector good for daily driving. Not recommended for high performance applications. Maxxis MA-V1 215/45/17 Dry:10/8 Wet:10/8 Value:10/10 $127 Each Really good directional stability they grip really well for a tyre with 300 tred wear, Really predictable and good on their limits. they will chunk up pretty easily due to the hard compound. but a great budget tyre. I would buy them again.

I concur... my car makes 241rwkw and pulls like a cut bastard... it scares the SH*T out of people. it is all in the tune and the setup a turbo on its own is not a performance upgrade without all the supporting mods.

I was stupid enough to pay $50 Do'h... money i could have drunk or spent on novelty pens...

BTW.... there will be a DVD burnt by Josh the guy recording and i will try to organise copies for everyone. Big thanks to him for coming along and filming.

good fun. I am aiming to go next time without smashing my front bar. bought a new set of tyres after dorifto and the dumb ass "misplaced my hub centric rings and also assured my 235's would not scrub.... THEY DO!!!!!!! now i will have to get 3mm spacers and have some more hub centric rings made... I know i should have waited and gone to see mark at discount tyres but i did not like the idea of driving on completely bald tyres for a week. It was really good to meet all of you and everyone was doing so well. the day is so much better with all nissans. Honestly you guys are much better drivers than all the other riff raff that are there on the open days

there looks to be a fault in that casting Have a look a the left hand side between the 2 ribs. it looks like it is about 2 mm thick. was it a genuine pump?

The hole is there to bleed the pressure between the actuator and the ball ONLY once the boost pressure drops to prevent the wastegate from staying open. due to the ball/hose/acutator creating a pressure vessel. The downside to this is the hole will bleed boost like a traditional bleeder and as it tapers off at high RPM the boost will also drop off and make the controller less accurate. This also means as some boost is bleeding off it would keep the actuator shut for a few 100ths of a second more. but would not make a difference in spool time. My personal opinion is that the hole is not needed as it was in the original design and has since been dropped. I have used both and currently have the one without the hole and it holds a dead flat line for boost.

some of those spinning hubcaps are always a winner in my book

put it back it's not done yet.