CEF11E

My money is on a leaking BOV. I bet you have an ATMO bov and it is leaking

you can buy replacement pintle caps at about $1 each. while you are at it replace all the o rings on the injectors at $1 each too

count me in too last one was good fun, crappy pizza but good fun

Sorry I sold these a few weeks agoa nd forgot th close the thread.. Thanks

Thanks Salad

sure is cheap. I would be wary using it to cool engine oil just because it is so cheap. I think you would really have to look at one in person to make a judgement

Thanks all for the input. I am going to get a DC tig but am going to wait until after i have done a welding course, it will give me a better idea of what i really need.

I had been thinking about castor rods. but have been told by 2 workshops and SK that spherical bearings are not a good idea. can someone recommend any? also where to buy steering spacer?

I would like to improve the feel of my steering and would like some opinions on what are the best upgrades. Currently I only have minor suspension mods. whiteline springs, shcoks and swaybars. all my bushes are factory and are in reasonable condition. there are no bumps, shakes or rattles. the steering just feels a spongy and not as responsive as it could. there is very little play and the rack in in good condition. What are good ugrades to do to increase the response of the steering. and where can I get them from.. I was thinking steering spacer made of alluminium insted of the rubber one, new steering rack mounts. what other bushes will improve the feel I am a complete novice when it comes to steering and suspension. I know engines gearboxes and diffs but have never had anything to do with steering. Thanks!

i have the exedy 5 puck clutch in now and it BITES like a wild animal. the car feels much better to drive with it. it does shudder in reverse going up hills like when you back out of a a driveway when you are coming off the pressure point. but it is tolerable.

Love the logo Aaron \good to see some R32 drift action

I wll take one of the cam gears. thanks

I have been doing some tuning and have noticed there is no change in the AFR with the atmo letting out the small amount of air. this was measured with a lambda and data logger. after a bit of fiddling i had settled with the atmo opening at 1 bar and opening to about 40% of its capacity. it is adjustable and allowing it to vent anymore does not improve response time. in between changes it is a clean split second Pccct. and as soon as you get back on the throttle you are right back at full boost. if i close it further you start to notice a lack of response. so i have found the optimum rate of discharge. Not sure if this is for everyone as it requires a bit of fiddling to get correct but there is defiantly benefit in tuning your BOV/S to suit your mods and boost level.

RETARD... RETARD... RETARD... I feel so sorry for all the people that live in north korea

seals are like $1 each

I will take the cam gears cheers

super bargin! cable alone worth $100, datascan $25 and laptop $250 if i didn't already have all this i would take it for sure

Glad to hear it is still going ahead

I am still up for it I am sure we can round up a few people willing to be shot. cmo'n people! get enthusiasic!!!

I have seen a few for around $750 at a metal supply place. made by an italian company called boss. 120 amp at 50% duty cycle

turbotech FTW. they hold a dead flat line at the desired boost level...cheers

Yes that is a pig of a hose. you will need a long set of needle nose pliers to get the clamp off and then spray a tiny squirt of wd40 inside and outside the hose and twist. it will come off. getting it back on is another story...

this might be a silly question but, will your ET's improve with just stock rims/good tyres on the rear? Also given full stick with 215/45/17's on the upchange to 2nd i am getting wheelspin all the way to 3rd will lower pressures stop this or will I also need to be lighter on the change?

I am looking at buying welding gear but do not want to spend a fortune. It will be for general use and will never need to weld anything thicker than 6mm but would also like to be able to weld as thin as 1mm for fine stuff. also the ability to weld alloy would be great. I have very little to no experience welding. I have used oxy/accetelene and arc years ago but thats it. I am thinking a TIG is the go. and also not a gassless one. What is a good price to pay for one and what would you recomend as meing the minimum level of rquipment to get? can anyone recomend a particular unit to buy? total budget will be under $1000. cun you buy a decent unit for that? Thanks

advance the timing to 21deg and run premium :0 remove the air filter. go to BOC gasses and buy a 10kg bottle of nitrous, 3metre braided stainless hose and a slow release needle valve set to 1bar! veed the hose into the airbox hehe! I had a mate in sydney with a ghetto nitrous setup on an old falcon same as above. he would stall it up and on launch and open the valve and instant tyre smoke Nedless to say you will put a rod thru the block if you are not careful