CEF11E

The total load is only relevant to the sum of both shims. it dosen't matter if you use 1 bigger than the other it will lock the same left and right. so removing 1 1.01mm shim and adding a 1.3mm wil just give more preload to both sides Cheers

I have a bunch of crap sitting in my garage that needs to find a new home. 1. 12 coilpacks off an RB20DET all are in excellent condition and I will guarantee they will not miss untill 12~14psi I had them on my low k RB20. I only upgraded to a set of splitfires so i could run 19psi with the bigger turbo. selling cheap. $100 for a set of 6 (both sets have matching numbers. 2. Stock RB20DET intercooler and piping $10 get it outta my house! 3. 4.11 crown wheel and pinion in R200 housing $50 excellent condition 4. 5 GTR injectors. Do'h! where is number 6? nobody knows! they will need new pintle caps at a total cost of $1 each! I have an ultrasonic cleaner so I will clean them for free. I have not tested these but look in good condition. I also do not have the ballast resistor but can tell you what sort of resistor to use and where to get one for a few bucks. $200 5. Stock BOV for RB20DET holds 19psi and dosen't go WHOOSH! $30 All parts are in Lucky Happy condition... Located in Canberra but can organize postage.

your 2nd gear syncros are rooted. Mine are also stuffed. if you double clutch you can change down without the crunch. You'd better start looking for another gearbox I picked one up for $500 and it costs another 3~500 to put one in. to reco yours will cost $1150. start saving

clutch + flywheel install on a gtst will be around $400 + any parts needed same on a GTR will be double I have just ordered a clutch from slide http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=239 and have heard really good things about it. and for $500 its a fantastic price. it will be going behind 240rwkw and used for drift and normal street use I will update with results when it is installed on the 20th. Cheers

Hi yogi000. If you pull the centre apart you will find there are actually 2 shims. 1 either side of the assembly. I replaced both of them with 1.01 shims. the ones in my lsd were 0.74 and 0.71 and I am imagining they were bout 0.80 from factory. so they had both worn a bit. I have a pair of 1.01 shims left over if anyone wants them for $20

Yep steer clear of such items.

Yes it is a highflow. It has a Biago bush bearing core and a new exhaust wheel and compressor and this turbo WILL make 230rwkw I have seen one built by the same place and they are a good thing

yep 2 x 1.01mm shims. the LSD is now really good it is predictable and held up to 2 solid hours of drifting. it actually feels like a mechanical 1 way as it only locks on throttle. it locks on almost nothing only need about 10 ot 20% before it spind both wheels nicely. If I was going to do it again i would use 1 x 1.01 and 1 x 1.3mm

I would be in for it. I am going to one tomorrow and it is a lot of fun. but would need a date to commit. its a great time, but make sure you bring spare tyres

I can now confirm that the car will leave 2 nice black marks that are both full and even when i drop the clutch. so the extra preload seems to have helped. the car is also more predictable around a corner and you can put down more power and that means more acceleration. and when it does begin to slide it is more predictable and a lot more fun. normal driving is fine. no clunk or shudder. A good cheap mod and if done correctly you will gain a lot

Eeewww! there seems to be something stuck to the back of your R34. hehe

Slide hiflow $900 GTR injectors $300 Fuelpump $200 ECU remap $350 Exhaust Camgear $70 Dyno time $200 = 200~230rwkw you may run into missfire running the 18psi to make that power but it you keep it under 14psi you will make 200rwkw. 19psi netted me 240rwkw with above turbo bit i needed splitfires

WTF indeed ;o hehe my bad

... You dream about your car being broken into and you wake up angry. ... You get asked questions every time you fill up the car. ... You are paranoid about leaving the car with your trusted mechanic ... You think it's ok to spend $120 on oil ... Your freinds introduce you to someone new and say this is my cool freind ... You know every part in the rB engine catalugue and car recite turbos by name, model and number ... You smile and go Wooo Hooo every time you get a red light. ... you think all cars should come with turbos ... your wife likes driving when you are drunk ... your left leg is stronger from the brass button clutch ... your next car is going to be a skyline

If anyone has a blue exhaust cam gear for RB20 left over pls let me know. I will take one Cheers

silly move if they do drop the WRX. must be a low profit margin in it for them. they really are a decent car for the money

A few observations I have made so far. A R200 Viscous diff operates on the principal of fluid viscosity. the viscous centre is about 2" wide and contains thick fluid and 6 rotating plates with holes. There are holes with splines for each driveshaft. the plates inside the coupling rotate at the same rate as the driveshafts L and R. as one shaft spins faster than the other the viscous fluid creates a viscous bond between the plates and applies rotational force to the other shaft thus providing an LSD effect. The key here being LIMITED slip not non slip. There is a finite amount it will slip and a finite amount it is able to slip. Adding shims to the diff either on the viscous side or the carrier gear side will not make the total locking effect any greater than what the diff was designed to provide. All you will achieve is adding more preload. The preload serves 2 functions. 1. Provide the right amount or lateral movement to prevent excessive wear on gear teeth in the lsd assembly. Too much will cause to gears to bind and not rotate properly and too little will result in a noisy and short life for your diff. 2. Assist in providing frictional load the the assembly and help prevent backlash between the pinion and crown wheel. So adding thrust washers does the following. Increasing tension in the LSD centre by increasing preload by squishing the carrier, spider gears viscous coupling together. This will mean as there is more friction the assembly will rotate with less ease and lock both splines together until the preload is exceeded at which time the diff will open wheel for a split second until the viscous centre starts to limit the rate of slip What does this all mean? Yes adding washers in your diff will make it tighter until the preload is exceeded by force and then your shimmed diff will provide no more or less slip that a standard VLSD. In practice you will not feel the time between preload slip and viscous take-up it will just feel like mechanical LSD You will shorten the life of the LSD assembly, crown wheel and pinion and produce more heat as the friction is energy and energy is transferred into heat. So YES IT WORKS but will in the long term wear out your VLSD. I would guess you are looking at a lifespan of 30~40,000kms

hehe I got that on video... You coming on the 5th StinkyPoo?

All in and done. I paid $100 for the centre $22 for the shims and $200 to swap the centre over if you already had an LSD you would only have to pay about $222! or risk doing it yourself. I haven't had a chance to really try it yet. I gave it a bit of stick on the way home but not enough to feel it. it drives like factory but feels like it does not under steer as much around corners. the track on sunday will be the test.

I ended up painting the centres black and it looks awsome. thanks guys

I have been stuck at home with a nasty case of sushi poisoning and have not been able to replace the diff myself so i have sent the shimmed centre along with the car to the good blokes at the diff place and will be picking it up finished on friday. an will be taking the car drifting on sunday so will be able to give good idea of how it works. Cheers!

you can also turbo the stock R31 engine using factory parts from a VL turbo but all up you will be looking at around $1200 for ECU, injectors, turbo, dump, crossover pipe, taking the total to $3000 and for a grand more than that you can buy an unregisterable race only import shitter like an S13.

R31/s with the standard RB30E put out very close to 100rwkw and hive quite a decent amount of torque. their weight balance is not too bad and parts are cheap as chips The best was to set one up purely for drift is strip everything out of the car just leaving 2 seats, dash and door trims and gut the rest this will help by keeping the car lighter. then get the diff locked by welding it at about $50-100 and then buy really stiff springs far stiller than you would use on the road. around 5k rear and 7k front. they will set you back between $200 and $300 I have seen cars set up like this perform remarkably and having spent all of $1700 for the car and a set of springs and a welded diff.

you need to get one with indapendant rear suspension. part from thet they make great drift machines. Also consider an R31 skyline, they do a really good job if they have a locked diff and hard suspension they put out about 100rwkw and its just enough to get them drifting. Cheers.

hehe the WORST lag ever. I think we have all been thru that type of lag from time to time. I am suffering form differential mechanic lag at the moment. it is taking 2 weeks and counting to spool up...