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Everything posted by CEF11E
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Dual Bov Recirc + Atmo And The Results...
CEF11E replied to CEF11E's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
No there in so actuator. you could use one. a turbotech boost controller or a check valve set to 14psi would work. The other thing I have noticed is. The blitz BOV connected by itself makes a lovely compressor killing noise wooo wooo wooo woooch at low boost. now with the twin setup there is no surge. -
Dual Bov Recirc + Atmo And The Results...
CEF11E replied to CEF11E's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
the overfuelling at 1bar would still be there i assume but at that sort of level it can actually be useful. because when you get the next gear you will be at peak torque and the little extra fuel acts as a detonation suppressor. this would be easily tuned out. I have not used a wideband to check it yet. it would be less than just an atmo would give as a large percentage of air is still going thru the stock BOV. -
I have been running a standard BOV on my R32 GTST and it does a really good job. I had noticed with the hiflow turbo and running 19psi on hard up changes it would "bounce" causing a slight hesitation on acceleration. I did not want to go an atmo BOV due to the silly noise and stalling issues and over fueling on gear changes so I came up with the idea of running both. The factory BOV remains intact and in complete normal operation. I have welded a flange on the underside of the downpipe that connects to the intake pipe that connects to the throttle body. Here the Blitz supersound BOV is connected I have set teh opening pressure to 14psi using a mittyvac. This means for normal driving and boost levels of up to 1bar the normal BOV works without interference so there is no loud noise and no over fueling. Once a boost level of 14psi or higher is reached the ATMO BOV is "armed" and will function as soon as the throttle is closed. and you do get a loud pchttt. I can deal with this because the last thing you are worried about at 19psi and 240kw is silly BOV noises. The results are a much more responsive car to drive. On hard changes when you get into the next gear boost is instant and there is no hesitation. it picks up right where you left it in the last gear. so you get all the benefits of a stock BOV with the added bonus of extra throttle response. I know there are 50/50 atmo/recirc BOV's available but in my current configuration teh installation looks factory unless you really go looking for it and i don't like engine candy I much prefer a completly standard looking engine bay.
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I will be there. :thumsup:
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A31 Out, R31 In - Project Mayhem Buildup Thread
CEF11E replied to someonestolecc's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
R31powah... no wonder i was getting axel tramp when doing burnouts in that thing look at these lovely rear shocks got spacers yet? -
Place a condom over it and tape around it. start the car and drive OFF BOOST below 2300 rpm and see if the condom fills cheers
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How Do You Rate The JJR Split Front And Dump Pipe?
CEF11E replied to gts-4 dreamer's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I bought one from batmbl and it fits perfectly flows well and has not cracked. it did have heatproof overspray all over it and welds much like the one pictured perhaps a bit better. The stainless was good quality and i have had another highly regarded fabricator say it looked like a nice bit of engineering. so all up i was happy with it -
this often happens with hiflows. if you are going to get one get one that has been researched and built for a specific application like a Slide hiflow or a GCG. now it will prob cost twice as much to geo sorted
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overall heat transfer coefficient for a wall can be calculated as: 1 / U A = 1 / h1 A1 + dxw / k A + 1 / h2 A2 (1) U = the overall heat transfer coefficient (W/m2K) A = the contact area for each fluid side (m2) k = the thermal conductivity of the material (W/mK) h = the individual convection heat transfer coefficient for each fluid (W/m2K) dxw = the wall thickness (m) Aluminium Coefficiant: - 221 W/mK When aluminium is used as a heat exchanger in ambient air medium U = 1 / (1 / hA + dxw / k + 1 / hB) (1b) Taking the total medium transfer to: U = 25.0 W/m2K even if the air temp in the cores is 70deg C the total increase of air temp traveling thru the second core from the first will be nothing compared to the temp coefficant. in other words.... it will perform very well.
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Or you could just get your hands on an RB20DET computer it will not run on the XT8080 without a firmware upgrade you will need the complete RB20det loom and ECU
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it may not be factory, but i have seen one before on an R32 m spec. it was making 210rwkw. also came with the electric spoiler. I thought it was factory. the one i saw was exactly like the one listed but also had a shroud. it is not a backyard job. look at the end tanks and mounting hole. Still looks the goods to me
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thats a nice bit of kit
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I am making 238rwkw on the very same turbo but it is only bolted to a RB20 with an rb25 260rwkw is realistic
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I will be number in for spot no10. Black R32 skyline woo hoo! pm sent
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Greddy Timing Belt Coilpacks + Stuff
CEF11E replied to CEF11E's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
timing belt sold pending payment -
[melb] Bnr32 Parts For Sale
CEF11E replied to uLa32's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
I will take the brake lines cheers PM sent -
Greddy Timing Belt Coilpacks + Stuff
CEF11E replied to CEF11E's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Hiya, I do not have a recipt for the timing belt but it is still new in the box. i havent even taken it out. it is brand new in box cheers -
truly awsome car. worth the money. gl with the sale mate
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Just a few things to clean out. 1# Greddy timing belt part no: 13524500 for RB20 RB25 RB26 engines Engineered to increase heat-resistance, flexibility and durability, GReddy Extreme Timing Belts reduce the chances of cracking from heat, inconsistent timing from stretching and skipping or snapping. Improvements in materials and construction lead to a more reliable belt that will be more consistent and last longer. brand new never used bought to replace in my car and then found out the timing belt has just been raplaced. Cost $250 selling for $125 inc post 2# 12 coilpacks (2 sets) from RB20DET will also fit series 1 RB25DET. all in excellent condition and are matching number sets. all will hold 12to14 pis without missfire guaranteed $100 for a set of 6 inc post. 3# factory RB20 intercooler $3 pickup only will have a look for more crap tonight
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RD28 = 2.8 litre the water galleries look the same as an RB20 seeming as the RB30 block is available for a few $$$ its prob a better option. unless the RD28 would bolt up to an RB20 head
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Help, My Turbo Wont Spool Up In 1st Gear
CEF11E replied to /2on's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
check to see if your actuator is connected or working properly. they have a diaphram in them that can burst. -
I have just come across a really cheap RB25DE form an R32 so non VCT. I would like to know the following : what is the comp ratio of the RB25DE? what will the comp ratio be with an RB30e bottom end with n RB25DE head bolted on be? I would be using everything from my current setup blitz FMIC GTR injectors GTR fuel pump splitfires 3" turboback slide RB25 hiflow remapped ECU would be redone for new engine currently putting out 238rwkw on my low k RB20 and no problems. I am just thinking the extra capacity would be a nice addition. I would need to run 19psi so comp ratio will be important to prevent detention. any input appreciated
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you will get the best dose performing the following mods: MOD 1 Then add the following for the complete effect. MOD 2
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cool somewhere to hang out wiht like minded car people that is not a carpark sounds good
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Agreed. the slide turbo will be better value once you cost in the silicon hose/elbow needed and a new front and dump pipe. Slide turbo FTW...