CEF11E

Understeer has lest the building... I did a full day of drift and the car turns in so much better than before. really happy with the results.

off the top of my head.. R32gtst m spec = 280mm R33 = same as r32 R34 Gtt = 310mm R32 GTR brembo = 324mm and 324mm rotors and brembos should fit under 17" cheers!

I am going to have to get under the car and take a photo I think Thanks Salad

Sorry, I should of mentioned the car did not come with HICAS. can someone please confirm where the toe is adjusted on the rear wheels

If you buy a GTST it will NEVER be a GTR. no matter how much you spend on it. GTR has the following: Larger capacity motor with more torque, response and horsepower Stronger gearbox 1 way mechanical LSD 4 piston callipers and larger rotors better suspension wider guards, offset. bigger intercooler better seats, more guages ect ect. I have spent close to 10g on parts for my little GTST not a GTR nor will it ever be. Unless you are going to drift it buy a GTR they are superior in every way. If you are ever going to park it on the street buy a GTST GTR FTW!! that is coming from a very proud gtst owner!

strange... I do not know anything about suspension. looks like I will need to talk to the place that aligned the suspension. Gary if you have time would you please be able to point out on a diagram exactly where rear toe is adjusted? or if you can just explain it? he adjusted toe on the other side so it sounds like he was doing the right thing. it is the Canberra recomended fitter for whiteline stuff and the boss owns a stagea. I am sure you know who I mean

I have had the alignment done and encountered a bit of a problem. The rear lower left control arm bush was stuffed and could not be adjusted. so I have had everything adjusted except the rear toe. Ended up with Front: Castor + 8.00 Camber - 1.50 deg Toe 1.0mm out each side Rear: Camber - 1.50 deg Toe Left +4.4mm :0 (needs to be fixed!!!) Teo Right +2.3 :0 (Needs to be fixed!!!) The front end feels really good now. steering is noticably heavier, turn in is a lot better and steering return is very responsive. The rear end sucks... it is still a bit wild and needs the toe sorted out. I am also going to get the camber adjusted back to -1.0 deg. Measurements for wheelbase are at home. I will post them up later.

I am so in for this... when do you need monies Adam?

Just for a bit more information. My car was a GTS from factory and had no rear swarbar at all. it has a new engine, gearbox, gtr brakes and all other handling mods listed once the whiteline bar was added the improvement was dramatic and improved a lot. this was why it was so bad to begin with. I am now running a standard stabiliser bar on the front and whiteline from the group buy on the rear. (set to medium) Tyres are 4 new fedral 595's 235/45/17. they are not fantastic but a decent budget tyre. so traction is even on all tyres Cheers!

Hi Amec, I thought black was the more popular choice?

if you do not install water cooling the CHRA will fail after a few 100 k's it is an integral part of the turbo cooling.

Ride height is 350 and 345 and yes new bump stops and covers were put on. an i trimmed them as per the guide

Can do I will measure the wheelbase tonight and once again after the alignment. I will possibly change the wishbone bushes when the alignment is done if I have the time.

not really SK, I have not replaced them. They are aftermarket japanese items. They are yellow with blue stickers and all the writing is in japanese. They are around 4 years old and seem to be doing a fairly decent job. so at this stage they will be staying.

Hi Amec. Wow! I was really hoping you would make these. I would like a set in Black for an R32 gtst dead keen on these. Thanks

Cool thanks dudes. The castor rods I have are rated to 12deg. and I have removed the inner guards and my front guards have been rolled so I will just ask for max castor. I will report back

Thanks all for the replies. I will adjust my settings given your advice and go for Front Camber - 1.50 Front Caster - 12.00 SAI - 9.00 Front Toe - 1.0mm Toe Out on each side Rear Camber - 1.0 Rear Toe 1.0mm In on each side If I do get 12deg castor and find it is to much, will I be able to adjust it back to 9deg without affecting the rest of the geometry? The only good place in Canberra is on the other side of the city and i can only get there once every 2nd week so i would like to get it right the first time. Thanks!

Hey All. I have done some basic suspension mods and have replaced the following. Whiteline front and rear springs Whiteline adjustable rear swaybar Adjustable castor rods The car understeered like a pig untill the rear swaybar went on and is now a lot better but still lacks turn in and mid conner grip. so I fitted the castor rods and am going to have an alignment done this week and would like advice on settings I am looking at Front Camber - 1.00 (do not have adjustment but should be close to this do not want excessive tyre wear) Front Caster - 12.00 (is this to much? I want turn in to be razor sharp) SAI - 9.00 Front Toe - 0.5mm Toe Out on each side ( want turn in sharp will it tramline with 0.5?) Rear Camber - 0.5 ( is this enough?) Rear Toe 2.0mm In on each side (Will this increse stability? is it ok to have toe out on front and toe in on rear?) The car sees 80% road and 20% drift and skidpan gets driven fairly hard not babied. please let me know what you think of these settings Also the rear swaybar is on medium as the hard setting decreases traction. particularly the castor.

heya all. I am looking for a pair of 4 x 114.3 rims. they can be ugly as hell and scratched up to the sh*$house as long as they are at least 7" wide and will fit an R32 rear. not tyres needed or bald ones also good 17's preferred but 16's might be ok. just going to use them for dorifto cheers!

The RB20 is inferior in stock form but $ for $ modding an RB will give you better performance all round. and as many have said RB's stroke allows them to rev and that's what you need with a bigger turbo. you have to look at what is best for you. RB is best for me...

I have got a lot of love for the RB20.

I ended up getting some machined up in sydney. they are alloy and ave hubcentric rings with just my 114.3 x 4 pcd. they are 8mm thick. but to use them captive insert nuts have been used that actually have a shank that goes through the wheel and centres in the whole in the spacer. sorry it's a bad description but they are an impressive bit of kit.

I also have one of these and would really like to see a manual for one. Does anyone have one? Cheers

I can testify to that :0 my cefiro made 210rwkw and no detonation all was good but up hills in 3rd and 4th it would ping as soon as it hit peak torque. even after the timing was backed off 2 deg i was still getting some knock reading. road tune is essential after dynoage

As a basic modification I "premap" premade remap to suit rb25 turbo, 3" exhaust and FMIC is a good thing. I can also vouch for the seller. he remapped my ecu around 3 years ago and I learned quite a bit from him. he was nice enough to teach me the basics of tuning when nobody else would. It was considered a bit of a black art back then.