CEF11E

hey all. I am replacing my engine in a few weeks and i am in need of a crane I can hire one from kennards but really need it for a week or 2 and they want $220 for a weeks hire. supercrap sell one for that much will pay in beer or money if anyone has a crane at the ir disposal please let me know

when the car is cool, get a good strong set of pliers and grip the actuator rod and try to pull it towards the dump pipe. Is it firm to really hard to move? does it wobble at all or does it feel loose? if it all feels OK to bring the boost on sooner try using a turbotech boost controller as the ball and spring mechanism will not net the actuator open at all until the desired boost is reached. it is an easy way to eliminate wastegate creep. your power figure is really good. but you are right there seems to be a fair bit of lag. you have given a lot of useful info unlike a lot of the "what is wrong with my car" threads. Also check to see if all the clamps leading to the actuator are tight and there are no splits or pinholes in the hose. boost control looks good from the graph what are you using to control it? Have you still got your RB20 actuator? it will suply more preload and may also help spool the turbo earlier. worst case scenerio, you could pull the dump pipe and check the flap is seating properly. Hope this helps

sorry champ there is a fair bit wrong with this statement, just thought i would clear a few things up... 1. On an RB25 with RB25 turbo you can run 12psi or on an RB20 with an Rb25 turbo you can run 14psi. no higher 2. In regards to the wheels. All RBXX turbos have ceramic turbine wheels. the difference is in the compressor wheel. RB20, series 1 RB25 run alloy iconnel wheels. series 2 RB25 turbos and Neos run nylon compressor wheels. there turbos are limited to around 12psi because the hugher shaft speed required for 14psi is enough to start delamination. so the clear things up run an absolute max of 14psi. 12 would be safer. cheers!

Thanks Cubes, will do

joys! I have been looking into this a bit as i gather the bits for my 25/30 combination. I am using a series 1 R33 RB25DE head. I have just pulled out 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve to find they have different length and thickness springs. both are VERY stiff but i will have to have them measured for seat pressure the measurement I have for base of seat to top of retainer is 37.5mm and the retainer is a few mm thick so i will have them compressed to say 34mm and see what the pressure is. Are GTR springs different lengths? its a budget build I am doing and don't really want to run much over 1bar ever so the factory items might do the job. I will post my findings once i get them over to someone with a guage

I will also be moving to Melbourne in around 6 months and will be buying. I have done quite a bit of research and looking around. I am looking for a quiet suburb within a reasonable distance to the city that I can buy a 3bd house for between 300~350. I have come up with a shortlist of Reservoir, Rosanna, Preston around that area. nice quiet area and if you can get a place on the train line you are 20 min from the city. even closer if you drive. Really keen to get down there and buy a place. I lived in Sydney for 5 years and really liked it even if it is a bit of a SH*^FIGHT.

both remaps send out should have been received if not please pm me asap. thanks.

not good at all. I hate parking in carparks I will keep my eye out for it. here comes the usual: did it have an alarm? was it insured?

that is a standard turbo it still has the anti surge ring machines in the compressor cover so nothing has been machined out of it. someone is trying to take you for a ride.

I will take the springs. pm sent

Hi there it will cost you $100 for a genuine nissan gasket and around 350 in labor to fit it. you should also do your timing belt and tensioners if they have not been done in the last 50,000k's also if you have blown a head gasket get your cooling system checked. and please type english KTHNXBY

hey guys, remaps have been sent out. if they do not arrive today i will be sending out new ones for you. pm sent

You can use Live edit for realtime tuning but you need a moates emulator and datascan and a consult cable so a fair few things. livedit is great. but fairly basic.

noisy, yes they are a bit but your exhaust will drown the road noise out. they are a good tyre. bob jane also tried to sell me a set of those. I dug my fingernail into them and they felt like taxi retreads. i decided not to buy them

hehe propper..... sorry :0

I should have given a bit more info.. the head is off the car and I will be using a "C" spring compressor that goes around the head and holds the valve still. its cool i have talked to an engine builder and have the info i need. Thanks!

Hey All I am in the process of replacing the springs is an RB25DE head with RB26 springs and need to know the right way of doing it. cams are out and the lifters have been removed. would anyone be kind enough of to explain step by step what is the correct way of replacing the springs. Thanks

yeah baby! should be a great turnout

I = IN... PAID $110 over netbank!!! superkeen! I can give the RB20det 1 good hard flogging before the 30DET goes in! name = Nic car = R32gtst

take it to the drags and you will have an answer I would think 190rwkw would be fairly realistic. as many have said 180rwkw is right for your mods.

bolt it on son... only way to know. you are going to do it anyway

any chance of a before and after dyno comparison? that is a really nice result.

I did the same thing to my R32 climate control screen to change it from nasty green to red. I used a red piece of cellophane called "gel" that is used in TV studios for changing the color of lighting. it worked perfectly however it was so dark you couldn't see it unless it was dark. the VFD was green and putting red over it seemed to cancel out most of the light.

can you post up the text for the link? i dont want to join a honda forum. ewww.

you could also run a monoblock. jaycar do one that will do the job perfectly for around $300.