CEF11E

it looks like it is hitting full boost around 4200 rpm. and as soon as it does (115kmph) you are making peak torque and you have ignition breakdown. Are you still using original coils? looks like spark is having issues at 18psi. what size is your plug gap? also as someone else mentioned it looks like your timing map may be a bit flat around full boost. 18deg would be the sort of timing i would imagine at that sort of boost. either that or you are having wheel spin, but it looks to erratic to be wheel spin. cheers

my original one is still going strong after more than 2 years at 17psi with no spike and no taper off. i am a firm believer that if you get your boost pressure from about 35cm away from the turbo compressor housing there is less turbulence and a steadier boost pressure. I noticed spike when i was getting boost from the nipple on the compressor housing.

it really only costs about $100 to do it my way. if you do not supply oil to the front cam journal you risk scoring the cam and even causing it to seize or produce resistance putting strain on your timing belt. this could cause you to skip a tooth or even snap a belt or a cam, all of witch would kill your engine. it can be done but i would not do it Cheers!

unfortunately not the solenoid sits deep in the head and has a seal. it acts like a gate between 2 galleries. to taking it out and replacing it with a feed line removes this gate. if you want to retain VCT you would need to tap into the vct gallery on the front of the head.

looks like the housing you have bought with the lsd is out of a S14. I had the same when i bought my LSD. I ended up taking the center out and swapping over the crown wheel and center into my existing housing it was a big job. I think what you are going to have to do is swap the whole lot into your old housing and reset the preload and backlash. or get some bushes machined up to fill the holes. dosent sound like you are in much luck on a sunday best of luck with it!

I did a budget build designed for street and capped at around 270rwkw. rb30 block cleaned and refreshed with rings and bearings. $520 timing belt, head gasket, tensioners, studs, exhaust mani gasket, sealant, thermostat, ect. $670 rb25de head $500 braided oil line and fittings $200 installed and running it cost almost 2 grand on the nose including oil and filters. I used all my rb20 ancelleries, coilpacks, turbo, ecu, rb20cas ect. things i had to sort out. I had to chop up the rb 20 loom and solder on new plugs to fit side feed injectors. i chipped the rb20 ecu and used all my original rb20 sensors. also lengthen some hoses. i did not lower the cross member and have spacers under the bonnet hinges for clearance. the entire package is all in and works perfectly and drives like factory till you get under it. to tell the truth it was a big job and took 2 weekends and a week of evenings from removing the rb20 to starting and driving the RB30. I imagine if you were to get it done by a mechanic you would not get any change from $4000 for the same build as i did possibly more.

that would be fine, but you still need to supply oil to the front cam jornal somehow. so you would still need to drill and tap a supply for it. doing it the way i mentioned prevents this

When I built my 25/30 I came up with the idea of taking out the VCT solenoid and replacing the solenoid with a tapped fitting. then feeding that fitting oil from a t peice just before the pressure sender. this will mean VCT is always on. but supply the needed oil to the front cam journal. all the parts needed cost me under $100 including the braided stainless line. I have now been using this setup for over 6 months and it works perfectly. you would only use this setup if you were not going to retain vct. hope this helps someone

what brent32 said. if you get an r32 and spend 5k on a 25/30DET and then sort out your suspension it will be more fun than almost anything you can buy for the same price.

I am going to pull the skyline off the road for a few months while i do a few things and will need some cheap transport to get to work for a few months. My criteria is A - roadworthy certificate B - few months rego C - reliable that's it anyone have a dai;y they no longer need? please let me know what you have or where i get get a cheap car with roadworthy from. If i could pick up something for a grand that would be fantastic Cheers!

I have a 3" metalcat that has been in service for 12 months. the innards have desintegrated atfer a few track days with a near perfect 12:1 afr. and i am not the only one. i need to buy another cat but may not buy another metal innard cat. once bitten twice shy. spending $300 on a cat every 12 months is rediculous. going to their website they claim to be the best and say the xforce items are not street legal. I think i am going to go a magnaflow.

sounds like belt slip to me. i have never seen all 6 equally low. are you sure the timing marks on the cam are in alignment with the crank?

i just had one made up from my original cable. i sent it off to adelaide and they repaired it. cost me about $80 including postage. it arrived back in my mailbox 5 days after i posted it! i will have to look up the name of the place for you. in your case your odometer is also cracked at the back. the white plastic bit that sticks out the back. it might also have to be replaced. i guess this means a new cluster. but i would send the cluster and the cable to them and see what they can do. fitting it is not that hard. all you need is a Phillips head and a 10mm spanner.

guys, i really appreciate the input. it looks like i am going to stick with imports. stagea, legnum both wagons, 4wd, 2.5 litre turbo 1998 models had for the money. aristo, cima, chaser, all older 1996 odd. bit more unique. aristo 2jz is an advantage but the car is really getting a bit old.

Hey all, I am looking at getting a "family" car and still want some power but also want something bigger and like a lounge chair. Who has actually driven an ls1 powered TV commodome? I have had turbo nissans for years and currently have an RB30dET powered R32. yes i know it is not going to be any where near as fast. i expect that but juus want an honest review from a skyline driver. no commonwhores are crap comments please. I will only have 15k to spend and want a less than 10 year old comfortable car with power and space

i added 100ml of penrite friction modifier (lsd additive) to my diff last night after thinking a bit more about it. this was added to the castrol synthetic traxsomthingor other that everyone is using. the stuff designed for the jag with the ford friction modifier in there already. now it is a bit smoother

lol at thread i started over 2 years ago mine is still working perfectly 2 years later

I have a 2 way nismo sss in my car and got it new. it's in an R32 gtst with a button clutch, alloy cradle bushes and rb30det torque. it clunks like a bitch accelerating and decelerating in corners. I have tried all types of fluid and now am using syntrax. it really is too much for the street i hate driving it when cops are around. i am going to take out the alloy bushes and see if it is any better. I lived with it in Canberra for almost a year no probs, but in Melbourne traffic it is just too much. do not put a 2 way in a daily driven car. I am going to pull mine out when i can be arsed and set it to 1.5 way and with less preload. I have found friction modifier also helps to a certain extent. mine seems to clunk less when it is cold. once it warms up it clunks like a cut bastard. having said all this when you are actually driving the car it is a pleasure.

Thanks for all the PM's. I regret to say the car is no longer for sale. I can't bare to part with her. sorry to the interested parties

Will do, I will be waiting till it is not 41deg outside mechanically the car is in excellent condition. it has just had about $370 wouth of fluids changed motul turbolight put in the motor redline lightweight shockproof in the gearbox castrol syntrax in the diff new coolant new PBR brake fluid new power steering fluid there are a couple of things i am looking into fixing at the moment. I have just ordered a new speedo cable, there is an oil leak that will have to be fixed. thats it. both should be done in the next week or so. asthetically the interior is in good condition excelp for a bubble in the dash like 90% of R32's have. body wise it is a 13 year old car and has a few marks and scratches here and there but on the whole is is a really nice tidy looking car. I will take a lot of photos.

NO LONGER FOR SALE... sorry i am going to keep her This really is an interesting car and I am happy to give you its full history. It is by no means a show car. It is a full on performance car and would be very dangerous in the wrong hands. It really is a handful to drive if pushed but is fine in traffic and had been daily driven by me since buying and modifying it. It returns 400+ km’s to a tank and is comfortable to drive. I built the car myself to suit my needs at the time. It we designed to be used as a daily that I could take out to the track or to the skidpan on the weekends. It looks nice without getting attention from the wrong people. It is not overly loud but as it has a 2-way diff expect clunk in carparks… I am not going to make any power claims as I do not have current dyno proof. It was dynoed when the motor was built but I have since lowered the boost and changed the tune as it was very difficult to get traction in 1st 2nd and 3rd. the car is currently running 16psi. I would estimate it is making around the 240~250rwkw mark. And somewhere in the vicinity of 400nm of torque. I am in 2 minds about selling the car but have decided as much as I love it, its time for me to set aside my love for fast cars for now. ENGINE - RB30DET I built this engine using an RB25DE head with less than 60,000 k’s and an RB30E bottom that has been rebuilt. All new gaskets and seals were used and VCT is disabled. The engine runs perfectly makes ridiculous power and torque. Misc engine additions: Sliding performance hiflow Splitfire coilpacks Splitfire panel filter Iridium plugs Turbotech Boost controller Blitz FMIC Braided stainless lines for turbo and VCT GTR fuel pump 3 stainless turboback exhaust – batmbl split dump, metalcat, Blitz 3” catback Suspension/Handling Replaced front and rear struts Kingsprings front and rear Whiteline adjustable rear swaybar Solid alloy rear cradle bushes Solid alloy cnc steering spacer Adjustable forged castor rods Driveline Exedy 5 puck ceramic HD clutch Rebuilt RB20 Gearbox with hardened shafts : 0 2 way Nismo SSS LSD Wheels/Tyres RS-R 3 piece 17x 8.5 F – 235/45/17 Fedral 595 80 % tread RS-R 3 piece 17x 9.0 R – 235/45/17 Fedral 595 90 % tread Interior BRIDE BRIX recliner Ital Volanti steering wheel Quick release wheel kit GREDDY turbo timer Autometer boost guage Tinted windows – darkest legal Dash lights changed to red for that Darth Vader look Chrome gear knob and new leather gear / handbrake surrounds Full 3 point immobilizer and premium alarm insurance approved Stereo Sony CD/MP3 headunit Jaycar 6.5 splits Eclipse 12” sub in custom fibreglass sub box Soundstream Granite 4ch Amplifier Boot retrimmed in standard grey carpet I am not in a hurry to sell it and have set a price of $14,000 I am not interested in haggling and am not hard up for cash. I built it for a lot more than this and anyone that wound be genuinely interested would know what is involved in putting together a machine like this. I will put up photos in the next day or so this is probably the worst photo in history but it gives you an itea of what the car looks like. she got stuck in my front yard after some really heavy rain here is a slightly better one. the intercooler is now black and the front lip has been removed

I have also just had a metalcat collapse. the car is running fine, slight loss of economy. EGT's are low ant the tune is 12:1 exactly. this cat lasted barely a year. it rattles like buggery. not happy jan....

danm wireless keyboards! i missed like 10 letters???

sponds like ring land or rings. the dipstick came out due to pressure passing the rings and then forced oil up hte spout. this happent to worn engines whan they are thrashed. it sounds like you now have very little compression, ossibly made worse by driving it with less oil. you need to do a compression test Cheers

in all reality, if you ask anone that has a well set up rb30det there is really no point twincharging. I have built my rb30det with a midsize turbo and it will make close to 300rwkw if pushed. and full boost by 3000rpm. off boost torque is better than anything else you can buy bar a big cube V8. and as soon as you get moving you have atleast 200rwkw on tap and god knows how many NM of torque. also if you put it in an r32 it is a damn fast combination. I spent months working out the best way to twincharge and decided against it as it was far to complex. and would never be legal.