CEF11E

on topic FTW!!! I am in a bit of a dilemma with my turbo and would like some advice. I am going to use my sliding performance RB25 hiflow with my 30det and am well aware the exhaust housing is WAAAAY to small. it makes 240rwkw on my RB20 and I would expect it will make 250 to 260rwkw on my RB30det. that figure is pretty close to my power target but i imagine it will come on way to quickly and choke around 5000rpm. so I have been thinking about getting a bigger exhaust housing. something around .80 I have no idea on the internal specifications of the turbo as it is a hiflow. if I could get 260~280rwkw from this turbo with good response and not choking untill 7000rpm that would be fantastic. The reason I want to stay with this turbo is that it is new and looks standard. the whole car is built to look standard and i want to keep it that way. so an aftermarket turbo is out of the question. What sort of housings can fit standard RB turbochargers. Thanks!

hey thanks for that! i will give them a go. dunno why i didn't think of that

Hey Abu the clutch is in excellent condition. it was actually on an RB30 but is the same as an RB25 heavy duty clutch. I can get some pics for you. its a PBR and they dont make crap The engine would cost about $100 to freight. I am coming to melbourne on wed and thurs so might be able to bring the clutch for you?

havent tried em yet but i will if i cant find original ones

sill all here. anyone? please don't tell me I need to buy a datto 120y to drop this all into don't think I won't do it!!!!

meh.... it's allways the little things that stump you. as most of you probably know I am building an RB30det at the moment and sh is nearly finished. I bought a complete but disassembled head and it was missing a few bolts that are vital. I really need the following bits 1 cam journal bolt and washer 2 VCT cam wheel cover bolts (tiny m4? bolts) 1 exhaust cam wheel bolt if anyne is wrecking or knows where an RB25 may be lurking in bits please let me know

As stated earlier the head is on, cams are in, water pump, oil pump and tensioners are in. I ended up buying new RB30 tensioner studs from nissan. the guy asked me why I needed 2 and the conversation ended up with the dude being very confused :0 till I said think 3 litre RB25 Same results here with the RB25DE R33 head. it was a bastard to get on but now it is on the tension seems fine. you can just twist the belt 90deg. I also read back something on cam journals seeming really loose. I have tightened mine up to 13.8nm. that is as low as my torque wrench goes. the specs say 9 to 12nm. is this going to be too tight? the cams will turn with some resistance. not much more than if there was 2nm holding the journals down. Also fitted new rear main seal tonight. that was a bastard to get out. the old one was caked in there pretty good and its a tight press fit to get the new one it. but its all done. The head I bought was a complete head that had been dissasembled and now I am getting down to the last few things I am starting to find little bolts here and there are missing. no biggie but i now have to find a few difficult parts. 1 cam journal bolt and washer 2 VCT cam wheel cover bolts (tiny m4? bolts) 1 exhaust cam wheel bolt thats about it. soon as I have those bits she will be a complete engine. I would really like to start it out of the car but I don't have a spare loom. Can't wait to get it in there. Bastardized R32 GTS FTW!!! If any of you guys have any of the bolts i need lying around please let me know

I finished building my 25/30 today. I had a couple of issues. I used the twin tensioner using the standard tapped threads (both low) and using the 149 teeth dayco belt there is to much tension. i am going to have to go the 150 teeth belt. this is the same issue others have had with both tensioners low using the 149 tooth belt. I am going to try to fit it again tomorrow but the preload required to get the 2nd tensioner on seems to high. i will let you all know how it pans out. apart from that the engine is ready to be fitted to the car.

I am in putting a new motor in my car and the RB20 that is in it will be available in 2 weeks. the engine has done less than 100,000 k. it was put in the car when it had 48,000 and has done 50,000 since then. The timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner have been replaced. the engine is currently making 230rwkw and is in excellent condition. As it is coming out for a conversion it will not be complete but would suit someone with a blown RB20 that wants a good condition drop in motor. it will be complete head and block with no ancilleries. $400 Also have a blitz super sound BOV in excellent condition, it is fitted to an R32 factory pipe and I would need the unmodified pipe in exchange. $100 Also have PBR organic full face clutch with pressure plate and flywheel. I have no idea how many k's it has done but it is mint! excellent brand clutch that will hold +200rwkw looks like it has done less than 200,000 k's $100 All items located in Canberra but freight can be organised

check your email

I had a productine evening last night. I built a tool for removing and refitting valves in RB heads after ordering 2 that did not fit. i built it from pics cubes and secur1ty had put up here. the tool worked perfectly and I have now got the valves, guides, springs, retainers and collets in the head. I think I am going to do the lifters in the oil and squeeze them before assembling the head as it has been apart for a month. I also made up the VCT supply line. all the parts I got from Aushose (like pirtek) I used the following male to male 1/8 NPT to 1/8 BSP adapter from the oil pressure hile in the block female/female/female 1/8 BSP T peice nipple with compression olive 1/8 hose from side of block to head nipple with compression olive tapped into the VCT gallery. the whole shebang only set me back $40 I thought it was going to be $150 having said that the supply line is nylon. it is rated at 250deg and 250psi. I think I am going to replace it with copper. the engine should be finished on the weekend. cant put it in till after Texikhana but it should be in and finished in a month

haha! that is going to be an awsome pig. If you stop putting money into it right now you will bea able to slide it for a year and sell it for $4000 when you are sick of it nice work B-Man

it's not not unusual for an rb25 to valve float at around that boost level. it's not common but not unusual. also not much else will cause a "no power increase" with more boost added. I am speculating without seeing the car but my money would be on valve float

If it is valve float and it is borderline then cam gears can also help by reducing overlap but it sounds like the more boost = no more power at all. was this done at Autotech? if so get Pete to print out one of your runs at 17psi and one at 21psi and post em up so we can have a look at what is happening. Cheers!

Thanks! will give t a try on the weekend! cheers dudes

heya bullet32 if you are making no more power at 21psi than 18 psi you are suffering from Valve float. not really that much of a drama, you will need to pull off the cam covers, cam gears, cams, lifters, retainers, collets and then replace the springs. A good set will cost you $300 form performance springs. the drama will be the labor bill for the work. most workshops would charge 8 hours to do it and its not really something you can do yourself. I had to make a special tool to replace the springs in my head and it is still a pain in the ass. and this is with the head is off my car.

hey all. I have to pull off the balancer from my RB30 bottom end and it is just a short motor. I rung an engine reconditioning place and they told me how they do it and I am not really keen on doing it till someone else says it will be OK. they said a rattle gun will not have enough torque so forget that. they told me to remove the sump and wedge a bit of wood between the crank and block then get a HUGE breaker bar on the balancer nut and apply a lot of force. Will this possibly damage the crank? last thing I want is a bent crank... sorry for the newb question otherwise has anyone else got any ideas on how to remove the balancer from a short motor not installed in a car?

wow so there are a few getting round with standard RB30 oil pumps. looking at the design there are a different number of teeth and looks like the RB20 pump wpold provide more flow and pressure. I have read the twincam head needs more flow but we all seem to be blocking off some of the flow to the head. is it possible using an RB30 pump and no restrictor modifications would be acceptable for a street driven engine that rarely sees 7000 rpm?

Having never done one of these events before, I wanted to know how much tyre wear you get? feather the fronts and strip the rears? is grip really from good quality tyres more important that ruining a set of new street tyres. I will ruin a set if I have to otherwise the sliding set will go on cheers

Damn! those wheels look hot on your GTR... nice photo! and well done quit I.T. and start racing!

Cheese grater did it with a beetle. pfft...

I a about to do the same setup. are you using an rb26 head?

well it took me 3 weeks but I have just finished reading this whole thread. damn what a novel... I had a bit of a busy weekend and the RB30det is well and truly under way. I pulled the RB30E out of the R31 and stripped it down and removed the head. Stupidly i forgot to loosen the harmonic balancer before pulling the motor. the engine has been rebuilt recently there are hone marks in the bores, pistons look like brand new no carbon, head gasket and timing belt aftermarket and a new tensioner so happy times! no piston slap and all in really good condition. I am going to use the bottom end as is. the head RB25DE R33 is also in excellent condition and will be used as is. the springs are the same as R33 turbo ones. I have drilled and tapped a new feed for teh VCT. a M10 x 1.25 thread. I have also blocked the original gallery with a M8 x 1.25 once it was drilled and tapped and used locktite. I am using the 149 teeth dayco belt with 2 tensioner s in the standard position. things i need to know is. 1. where the hell have u guys got your oil supply for vct fittings? every car parts place i went to did note have 1/8 npt fittings. not even pirtek! 2. What is the best way of getting off the harmonic balancer and flywheel bolts? I am guessing a rattle gun? also what size is the ballancer nut? 26mm spanner JUST to small. 28mm to big? is it metric? 3. what is the best way to remove the current engine and transmission. I removed the gearbox and motor from the R31 in one piece with a crane and it wasn't to hard. but i did cut the front of the car off first am i better off removing the gearbox before i take the motor out? I am guessing putting it back in in one piece will be a hell of a lot easier. I am hoping to have it all in and started in a month. so far it has been plain sailing. this is the biggest project i have undertaken yet and i am taking my time, my power goal is only 250rwkw. this is the maximum the turbo will supply anyway and I think that is enough in a responsive r32 with torque. any help appreciated cheers dudes!

I am 90% sure you will need a turbo loom due to the knock sensors. you may be better off looking for a power FC first and buying the correct loom for it. it really depends on wich RB25DE head you are using 33 or 32. if it was me I would buy a R32 re25de and use an R32 rb20det loom with an ap engineering pfc. the loom and ECU will dictate wich CAS, ignighter and injectors you can run, once again in my opinion the r32 loom will be better as you can run top feed injectors.

OMGWTF!!! you rock Michelle thankyou muchly