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Everything posted by CEF11E
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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!
CEF11E replied to CEF11E's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
they are still better controllers than a solenoid based EBC for small capacity engines with large turbos and small turbine housings. i.e. best for rb20det with hi flow. and on my rb30det it still holds 17psi till redline from 2800rpm like a dead flat line. -
RB20 ecu's have a mass airflow sensing cut that cuts injector pulse as soon as the AFM reads a given voltage depending on the air flow/rpm range. typically even with an RB25 turbo it will not hit this unless it is a really cold day. You can have the ecu remapped to fix this and also customise your fuel and timing maps to suit your needs.
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thats no good it's going to cook your bonnet. have you thought about lowering your engine mounts just enough to get a benie on there? 15mm should do it and will not affect drivetrain angle to much.
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Pros And Cons Of Putting A Rb25 Into A R32gts-t
CEF11E replied to 335's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
rb25's have weak ringlands and don't like bouncing off the limiter if you are going to drift it keep the 20 and put a bigger turbo. otherwise its all pro's -
I would but they are not made in 2 piece 326mm in pcd 114.3 and these are the rotors i need for my wilwood calipers and i cant change to 5 stud. i like my wheels to much so its redrill or nothing
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hey all geez being a newb to a city sucks sometimes. you can never find anything. anyways, I need a brake upgrade and have the rotors, calipers and lines but the stud pattern on the rotor is wrong and i need it changed. does anyone know a place that can redrill rotors? cheers!
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cubes, on second look they dont look to bad at all. if you run your nail over the scratched can you feel them? or does it feel pretty smooth? they looked worse in the first picture
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Stock Gtr Ecu On A Rb26/30, Will It Run And Drive Ok?
CEF11E replied to unique1's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
on the 26 ecu it will be fine for driving around. don't go thrashing it as the timing map will be completly different from the 26 to the 30 due to extra capacity and comp ratio -
i have been thinking that. on a getech with low pressure in the rears and me having no experience in drags it still will pull 12.0 flat
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it depends on what you want. mine is a budget build 25de/30e with a 25 hiflow. it makes 250rwkw odd and far to much torque for a street driven R32. een with good suspension setup and decent 235's i have no useful traction after 4000rpm in 1st 2nd and sometimes 3rd. infact a 25 with the same turbo and an equal tune would be faster from 0 to 100. however if you want to drift it. push it into a corner in 3rd or even 4th and stamp the throttle and instant sideways action. fantastic for putting around as i can comfortably do 40 to 50kph in 4th at low revs with huge torque but useless for acceleration at low speeds. they are different engines for different needs, granted my turbo is probably to small and comes on like a 150 shot of nitrous.
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Hi Cubes, what you are looking at it due to 2 things. 1. the caps have been tightened by the looks of it down to 50nm. and due to the fact they are alloy the upper bridges compress to form an elipse causing scoring on the top of the profile. 2. the head may have been suffering from oil starvation due to lack of pressure. there is really only the option of getting the arcs machined/honed and decking the contact surface so the still form a good base circle, or getting other caps from a decent head and torquing them down to 26nm IIRC? there is also the possibility of foreign particles in the oil. were these pulled from a running engine? cheers
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I might come down and put the car on the rollers. is there likely to be many big numbers cars there?
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hehe true i would not enjoy that.
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I was going to sell mine. mainly because i wanted to build a sr20det powered clubman and i think it is a bit excessive having 2 toys. I thought about how much i bought it for, how much i have spent on it and the work gone into it and decided the price i would be prepared to part with it for. then looked around to see what a car with the same mods was ACTUALLY selling for. not what people were asking for them. i also looked at how long they were for sale for and all the hassle you have to go thru to sell one. I then honestly asked myself if i could do with out a fun machine that i could drive every day and the answer was no... so for me I will keep it regardless of how much it has cost me. it's less than 20g and i get fun from it every day. If you are not hard up for cash keep it. the marked is farked. these cars are not worth money anymore. but that dosen't matter we all bought them to enjoy. can you really put a price on enjoyment
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this is 100% right unless you have a turbo with a large compressor wheel and very small housing. an example would be a bax oversize rb20 turbo. there is to much turbulance and pulsing to get a steady pressure. in this case you are best off getting your feed 10 to 20 cm away from the compressor housing. I have found the profcb and other solenoid ebc's do not cope well with turbulant boost scources. this is due to the sample rate they use and their limited processing ability. cheers
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OK. i am clearing out a lot of stuff I no longer need. here goes Airbrush and compressor. this thing is excellent for touch ups and any fine work you need. they have only been used twice to do some touchups. you can get a really professional job. the airbrush is a really good quality one and is not dodgy spec. same compressor selling on ebay for $179. the brush cost $56 selling together with hose for $100 Guard roller. this is an excellent tool and is worth it weight in gold I have done what i need with it and no longer need it. this is probably the best one on the market. I work for a car company and got it thru work for $194 trade price. Selling for $100 GTR front bar. R32 black. its missing the lower lip. its fiberglass - drift spec or fix. $50 BLITZ BOV super sound attached to R32 pipe. will bolt straight on. but I will need your stock pipe as part of the deal. (exchange) it looks almost exactly like the one in the picture. I can install it for you if needed. $100 waterspray controller minus the thermistors. instructions can be got from mearcat and possibly the sensors too $40 R33 - vct solenoid works fine $30 R33 - ignitor works fine $75 R33 - CAS works fine $75 all parts located in melbourne
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R32 Genuine Type M Front Bar
CEF11E replied to 32line's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
I will take it -
I am imaging you want an RB30 bottom end only and do net need the head. as you will be using an 25 or 26 head. or are you after one that is already rebuilt? if you are after one that needs rebuilding you can get one for $100 aud if you go to www.r31skylineclub.com you may have to pay someone to pack it really well. but that will be the cheapest and possibly easiest way to get one. cheers
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count me in pm sent
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I got burned with that too. I am running the following RB25 DE head from R33 (VCT) RB30E bottom end RB25 injectors RB20 CAS RB20 ignitor RB20 coils RB20 temp, oil pressure, knock, start sensors rb20 everything else. I had to chop the top feed connectors and fit rb25 side feed ones. I wanted to use top feed injectors but they would not fit under the plenum no matter what. even without the fuel rail they are too tall. the whole lot is running off an R32 ecu that I have remapped. it runs like factory, returns 400kms per tank and makes 260odd rwkw. the R32 ecu can be made to run many things.
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tp lookup for rb20 in the fuel map is 1484 or 1492 IIRC. haven't done any realtime for a while and will look it up when i get on my tune laptop
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**** T-shirts **** $20 Each
CEF11E replied to subie's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
I will take the TRD one cheers!