CEF11E

Some engines will run fine at 12.8. low boost engines with short blocks ie: v8's and 4 cyls with same head and block material il: both alloy. there are a lot of cars that are tuned this lean porka cup cars are an example. 6cly engines with cast iron blocks that cool poorly in the rear 2 cyl's running high boost and agressive timing are NOT the right engines to be running such lean AFR's on, the egt's will be to high and they will be prone to detonation. really high hp RB's should not be leaner than 12:1

location 1 would be better to reduce turbulence. I have found boost control will be better if you tap a hole 20cm from the compressor outlet. usually on turbos with large compressor wheels and small compressor covers you get a lot of turbulance. not the case looking at that compressor cover but still if possible i say 20cm away from the turbo

sonnds good.. I used to have a cefiro, I loved the suspension set up and the wheel base, those cars are made for sliding. got a bit more done tonight. the dump pipe is 1/2 made. I ended up using 20 60deg mandrel bends joined and pointing ditectly towards the cat. i ran out of straight pipe so i will get some tomorrow and finish the dump pipe. the hotside will then be complete. On the cold side I wanted to keep it looking as stock as possible but have had some more fitment issues ... the elbow that would normally come off the compressor housing (going to the intercooler) needs to be made up as the turbo does not come with one and there is only 2.5 inches of clearance. and the pipe diameter is ..... 2.5 inches!!!! so there is going to have to be some clever welding done.. the airbox will still fit JUST and i want to retain it, plus all the stock piping, bov, carbon canster, breather the whole lot. it would be a whole lot easier to ditch the stock stuff and start from scratch but I really want to keep it looking stock for obvious reasons. I am going to make brackets to fit the standard heatshield over the turbo.

turbo is sold... the stainless front/dump pipe is still for sale. these are the best dumps you can get for a skyline. $250 thats the same price as the copies you get from just jap.

yep I have a 7 blade hx35. I just used the picture as an example

The wastegate spring is rock hard. to even move it 5mm you need vice grips. I now have the turbo bolted to the manifold and it is a tighter fit that first measured. I made a 20mm split pulse spacer out of a a pair of 10mm T3 flanges and bit of flat bar 6mm thick. then I had to make longer studs. I used hi tensile threaded rod and cut 4 pieces then chamfered the edges and bolted them into the manifold with hi temp locktite. I have also finished the dump flange and will make the dump pipe over the next couple of evenings. There are some bits I did not envisage, 1. the power steering lines from the resivoir to the pump on the low pressure side do not clear the compressor snout!!!!! I will have to have a flexible ps hose to rectify this but it's not really a big drama. 2. even after modifying the actuator is STILL does not fit!!! it also fouls on the power steering canister. I can explain how much bigger one of these turbos are so I will just do it with a picture... to the left is a TD04. (same size as RB25 turbo) to the right is a Holset HX35 Waxer52, Good luck with your install, If you need a spacer that big I am guessing you will have to put the turbo and manifold on the car in 1 go otherwise you will never squeeze the turbo in there. That's also a big spacer! make sure you have some good bolts and the spacer is strong enough to bare the weight of the turbo. Add some photos to this thread when you get a chance... Cjmartz2k, Yep I thought of boring the wastegate flap, and might end up doing it. there is not much material between the flap and the edge of the hole alreays. piossibly 2mm each side. but even taming 1mm off this will increase the flow of the hole by 26%!! so it might be a good idea, My workshop looks like it was hit by a bomb made of skyline parts, metal shavings and beer bottles at the moment

thanks for the support guys, I got a bit of work done tonight. I did end up getting thicker plate for the rear dump flange and cut it and after a lot of work ended up with the bolt holes and a 3" hole cut to fit the dump pipe. it needs a bot of work but will be good when finished, Ideally I would have gone the standard rear plate and dump but i could not locate one apart from new oem and it was a couple of hundred a 2 weeks away so i made my own. and Dale I think you might be right about the manifold, I will leave the expansion gap there. it's only 6mm long and 3mm wide so shouldn't cause problems. I did however find the actuator for the internal gate needed to be modified to fit. this was because the compressor housing fouled it in the position i wanted to use. so it was cut and new holes drilled. but it fits nicely now. the actuator has a screw threaded rod so its going to be easy to adjust boost for what i want. I was going to mad it anyway as the standard pretension on the gate is 24psi. its now set to about 12psi and there is enough thread on the rod to increase it to around 19psi so still a good level of adjustment Sorry about the lack of pics so far, I will have some up on the weekend.

I am also after 1 with a plug too easy.. pls pm me!

I have all the bits I need on order now and should have the install completed by the end of next weekend, Looking at the standard RB20/25 manifold, it is a SPLIT PULSE design.... am i the first to notice this? and why did i not notice this before? 3 runners go to each side and interestingly, each runner has close to the same internal volume. There is an expansion slot/cut in the middle of the split in the manifold. I am going to weld this up. I am then going to make a T3 split pulse spacer that is 20mm thick. otherwise the compressor will foul on the exhaust manifold. The other modifications needed to make it fit on the manifold are to remove the manifold heatshield and cut one of the manifold standoffs that the heat shield bolts onto. then the heatshield has to be cut to clear the compressor housing. 20mm spacer is about the minimum and maximum at the same time. this leaves the turbo about 8mm clearance to the manifold and about 55mm clearance between the turbo and the strut tower. so there is plenty of clearance but by no means is this a small turbo, everywhere else looks to be fine, it clears the cross member (this is on an RB30det mind you so I have an extra 28mm clearance as my block is 28mm taller than an RB20. The oil supply for my HX35 has a fitting I removed and then the standard nissan banjo will fit but you will need a new banjo bolt. the new bold needs to be 12mm with a thread pitch of 1.5. i bought the bolt from pirtek for about $9 the oil drain is the same as your stock turbo. the compressor inlet is 4" so a silicon reducer will be used and i will be making up a new intake from the airbox to the turbo. the compressor outlet is a vband flange and it will be ground down and a silicon hose will be clamped to the housing. but an elbow will be needed as the stock nissan turbo has this fitted from factory. the dump pipe is being made from scratch and this will be the biggest item to make as I have to make the flange from scratch. I have bought 8mm steel plate and 3" mandrel bends. This will be my first attempt at serious welding and will have to be done on a gassless MIG so it will not be pretty but will be strong and have good penetration. Thats about it, the only other thing that has to be done is block off the water supply lines, one on the drivers side of the engine that goes around the rear of the block and one that bolts to the passengers side of the block. I will also have to upgrade my injectors and afm before it can be tuned and I will be capping power at 270rwkw to keep the stock RB30 bottom end alive. I MAY lean on it a bit harder on the dyno just to see what it is capable of but the DSM guys have already done this and have proven 500rwhp is doable from these turbos. this is on a 4G63 so even on a 2 litre these make insane HP. The best thing about the install is the car will still look stock to the untrained eye and will make 300odd rwkw I know you dont believe me it will look stock but i will take some photos when I am done to show you what I mean Cheers!

I have these on my r32 daily driver and they are good. the wear is fine, not as good as a street tyre but i have done a few 1000 k's and they are still line new. and they are fine in the wet.

Hi zach, yep if you could take some photos for me that would be great! I am interested in looking your dump pipe and the intake pipe to the turbo. did you use a 3" steel pipe and a 3 to 4 silicon reducer? Have you had it dynoed yet? I remember you said it replaced a gt40 or something? if you have not had it dynoed, what sort of power do you estimate it is making and at what boost level? cheers mate!

Cheers Dale will do.. the turbo is the higher flowing hx35 compressor and the 12cm housing. I am not really after huge power bu it still should make 300rwkw. thanks for the tips on the studs, I will hunt around for them, I am lucky enough to have access to a full workshop so I should be able to make all the bits I need. On a side note, I can't believe I never noticed this before but the factory RB20 manifold is like a split pulse design with 3 cylinders feeding each port. and the turbo I am fitting has a split pulse housing. I was going to knife edge the exhaust housing but now it looks like a split t3 spacer will do the trick!

I have just started the process of replacing my turbo in my R32 with a HW35W holset turbo. there has beenquite a bit of stuff on them floating around lately and I needed something that would produce near 300rwkw on my RB30det. The standard turbo has been removed and the first tash was to see if it would actually fit in the standard lowmount position without major modification. As suspected the compressor housing fouls on the exhaust manifold. it fouls on one of the standoffs that are cast in the manifold for the heat sheild to screw into. it also fouls on one of the runners and a spacer will be needed to make it fit. Apart from that it clears the engine mounts and everything else easily and looks right at home in the engine bay. I will have to make up the following bits 1. Dump/front pipe, The exhaust flange of the holset is a 5 bolt that LOOKS like an XR6T but is slightly different and wont fit. this means I have to make a flange from a steel plate. not really a big deal. 2. new turbo intake pipe, the mouth of the holset is 4" so a silicon reducer and some 3" pipe will do the job nicely. 3. compressor outlet pipe will have to be modified. it needs an elbow welded to it. once again not really a big deal. 4. I have to find the right oil fitting bit it will screw right onto my existing braided line. There will have to be a spacer between the manifold and the turbo and I estimte it will have to be around 20mm thick. I guess I will have to make that. but should not really be a drama.. The 1 thing need a bit advice with is the studs in the manifold. the 4 that connect to the turbo. they will have to be removed and replaced with ones 20mm longer. as these are not a standard part I have no idea where to look for them. Also How do you remove the existing ones? do they screw out? and if so do they unscrew anti clockwise? I will keep this thread updated with pics and info as the job is done. Cheers!

SOLD pending payment : )

shipping should be aboout $30 cheers!

I have my Hiflow for sale as i am going a bugger turbo to suit my 30DET. I bought this turbo from new from Sliding Performance and fitted it to my RB20DET. it is a cracking turbo and started a bit of a revolution on the forums. It has done around 30,000 k's and is in good condition. it is designed to fit an RB20DET or RB25DET and will produce enough flow for 240rwkw on a 20det and possibly a bit more on the 25det. it comes on like a hammer and pulls to redline. please have a look in THIS THREAD for the whole installation diary and performance figures. it comes with an RB25 elbow and an actuator. it will bolt onto your standard manifold. no modifications needed. I will also supply the needed oil feed bolt, but you will have to have your oil line restrictor removed. $500 I also have a stainless split front/dump for sale to suit this turbo. it is made by BOS importing BATMBL. do a search. these are the best dump front pipes you can get for a stock turbo. $250 both located in Melb. would prefer not to freight the front pipe. cheers!

what a useless waste of space this thread is. you say a 500kw skyline can give you more satisfaction than ........ although you have never driven one. not having a go at you and the sexist remarks aside, ask yourself why the hell you are doing what you are doing?

it is repairable, and you need to get it done before you put it or or the manifold will split one day when it cools quickly. the way to repair it is with a stick welder grind the surface to be repaired. it needs to be heated up in an oven before welding and then fill the crack. then wrap it in a heat blanket or something NON flammable to let it cool VERY slowly. once that is done it will be fine. What sort of manifold is it? it looks like a twinscroll himount by the looks of it.

I would like to pull out if someone else wants and is prepared to pay for my spot. I have a lot of work to do to get the car ready and not a lot of time. How would this be organised?

Actually, thats some pretty good advice right there. I have been tuning RB's for years and cams never do what the owner expects unless they are making close to triple stock power outputs of the motor. or is you intend to run massive boost. for anything less than 18psi and your turbo choice i would forget about the cams. especially on a neo. spend the money on an exhaust manifold. or as joejojojojojojojojojjojojojojojojoj..... says handling

I have had both in a 32 and can give you some info from both sides. RB20 - really easy yo get 200rwkw out of. exhaust, turbo, intercooler, boost controller and fuel pump and ecu remap. thats all you need. if you go with a good turbo like a 2530 power delivery will be excellent, it will rev like buggary and it will last. it will bore you after a while and you will be on an endless chase for more power. having said this is is an excellent powertrain for a rwd 32. and driven properly will be a VERY fast street car. RB30 - now you will have to replace a lot of things you didnt with the rb20. gearbox, clutch, engine mounts, injectors, afm, ecu, fuel pump, turbo, exhaust, intercooler, boost controller plus the build itself. the car will have more torque than you will ever need, stupid amounts of torque. if you are doing 80 in 5th and mash the throttle it will pull like an RB20 in 3rd. it makes effortless power, sounds cool, is SHITLOADS OF FUN TO DRIVE but probably will not be faster than the 20det powered 32 unless you are a very skilled driver. an most of the time you are trying to get the power down. it will cost 4 times what a 20det would and you will have a ball in it, but the is NOTHING wrong with the good ole 20det

by the sounds of it he did not test it before sending it back. send it back right away it needs to be fixed.

it sounds like you have put a cradle in your ecu and installed a remap. either 3 possible causes 1. the remap is not programmed correctly on the eprom 2. the eprom is not sitting in the socket correclty 3. the ecu has been damager installing the soket or eprom..the tracks are fairly fragile on these ecus and break easily. where did you get the remap and was it done to suit your mods?

your ecu is not reading the eprom properly. did you put a new eprom in the ecu or did you get an already chipped ecu?

AWSOME!!!!! it looks just like a 6boost manifold but with some fancy lobster tail work. the collector looks like it is made from a few toilet rolls. I would love one of these!