CEF11E

This waste gate bolts onto the standard rb20 25 manifold and then the turbo bolts onto it. and its only been used for ONE WEEK! these wastegates are normally $400 +. this gate sounds cool too... The dump pime is for a turbonetics t3/t4 hybrid and it cost me $200 alone to get made up.. This is a good deal guys its like $600 worth of gear for $200!

Anyone know what type of bearings they use? I need to replace my front ones and i have a feeling i am going to get raped if i go to nissan. :Oops: where is a good place to buy them? cheers dudes...

Hi dude. i have a ceffie and want my aircon back. I need the dryer and the lines that go from the dryer to the cabin and the line that goes from the dryer to the condenser do you have these? how does $50 + delivery sound? cheers dude...

I have an amp that i bought online from america It took waaaay to long to arrive so i bought a MTX D class in the mean time. Specs: Output power: 200W X 4 Signal Ratio: Better than 85DB Impeadance: 2 to 4 Ohms Subwoofer and High pass filter fully ajustable. Activley cooled by fan. Bridgable to monster 2 channel amp. Its made By House of Boom. I cant find the details for it anymore but you can hear it before you buy it if you like. Its a good quality amp and cost me $460 australian plus delivery. Its more powerful than your averidge 4 channell $400-600 amp. never used. will sell it for $250 for quick sale.

hey, found this manual for the cefiro do any of you guys have one of these? anyone want one? linky manual engrish

do not buy one, i returned mine after the blades shattered and fu#$ed my cat. they boost like shit anyway. terrible build quality.

hi basketcase, have you ajusted your idle yet? it is probably not helping if its runnung to low. also check your timing and see if its set 20deg

still waiting for pics dude, its pretty hard to buy something if you dont know what it looks like. i want the volks and the ssr longchamps. but i need to see pics.

hey ceffe people, on saturday www.initialdrift.com.au is holding a drift practice day at eastern creek. its awsome fun with drifting on a wet surface in the first half and dry in the afternoon. i would love to see some more ceffei there anyone interested?

hey inark, for real how much do you want for it? As i am a trained cage fighter i need this bodykit to go with my skills.

With a bigger fuel pump and coils all sorted out you should see 160-180 rwkw with your combination if u run 1 bar will "feel like a huge power increase" one the ecu is retuned. Speak to Toshi on these forums he has done my ECU and did a fantastic job. he has all the equipment to do it properley and will give you a few tuning options too he charges $250 and its the cheapest power gain you will ever get! cheers

youch! so 210rwkw by the sounds of things...

they work by creating turbulance in the intake and slowing the amount the inlet can flow at low turbine speed. This inturn increases spool up time. thus lowering the posibility of surge.

too_much_boost have you had your car dyno'd yet?

with a g-tech pro. I am sure it was to do with the tyres i was using. they were as soft as chewing gum.

Hi Megalla yep its your old car i just didnt want to bug you too much i didnt want to ask you every little detail of the car as its not your problem anymore. Yeah the engine still seems fine except when i am maximum throttle and rev it to 7k then change gears and give it gas it pings just a little untill the revs get back up over 5k and then its fine. I have had the A/F ratios checked and they are fine. mods i have done since having the car FMIC 600 x 300 + waterspray kit new injectors just cleaned and flowtested RB25 turb slightly hiflowed turb back exhaust 3" "with cat thistime" hehe! oil catch can custom air intake/box bigger fuel pump Did u do any work on the bottom end Steve? or did you just replace the burnt valve? Cheers mate what r u driving now?

I have done mine a couple of times, my best time was 4.9 That was on a really good road with Advan tyres. since then i have shitty falkens and my time has gone back to 5.5 - 5.9 depending on tyre pressure. my crazy japanese freind thinks i am getting good times due to the suspension setup? I always thought my car was slow because i find it hard to break traction in a straight line. is 4.9 THAT good?

I would like to know how much i should budget to rebuild my rb20. there is nothing wrong with it apart from a few ks on it. I just want to do a propper rebuild and need to know what to do I guess get the block chemically cleaned and honed machining journals? how much? have pistons balanced do i need new pistons? how much? get the rods balanced? rod bolts? bearings, rings, gaskets, valves, springs having never undertaken a rebuild i dont know how much to budget. I want the bottom ent to cope with 210-220 rwkw so nothing to special can anyone recommend a place in sydney that will do the lot for me? ie drop off motor pick up rebuilt later? can you save cash doing some work yourself? thanks

me too i need 2nd hand tyres bad. do you have or know anyone with 2nd hand rims they want to lend/sell me?

Nathan cleaned mine for me, he has a nifty machine that does the job. take it to him he is in Annandale. took about an hour to get em cleaned and he is a very freindly guy full of good advice. He cleaned mine for $120. depending on the condition/type they might be more. I am hopeless writing guides so i cant help there much. 1.you need to remove 2 bolts one on the front and one on the back of the fuel rail. 2. remove the fuel supply and retiur lines from the rail/regulator assembly 3. remove the bolt from the bracket that supports the rail at front under regulator 4. remove injector clips, i did this with tiny long nose pliers, then unplug all the injectors. dont worry about marking them they are all labled. 5. you can now wiggle the fuel rail out about 40mm. you need to take out injector 5 and 6 to get the rail out from under the plenum. slide the rail out and check the grommets are NOT on the injector bottoms over the pintle cap. make sure there is a grommet in every hole in the plenum. wiggle out the injectors from the fuel rail. put them in a clean plastic container and take them to cleaning place. PUTTING EM BACK IN... when putting injectors in the rail be very careful to push evenly as not to squash the o rings. put in injector 1, 2, 3, 4 Slide the rail back in place. once in place replace injector 5 and 6. this is quite hard. PLUGS! injector 6 comes from the main harness. injector 5 comes from the wires on the fuel rail and 4, 3, 2, 1 cone from the injector harness and are labled. replace all the clips. push the injerctors into holes in plenum and bolt the rail in place. connect up the fuel supply and return lines and bolt the bracket back into place. repressurise the rail by turning the car back to "on" check for leaks... drink cold beer and tell your mates how cool you are cause you fix your own car:)

hel yeah! there is one on the 20th of november and i will be there... :rave: we should cet a full on cefiro crew there. that would OWN! last time i was there there were like 100 dudes wanting to look at the car. Infact lets get some chicks in bikinis to come and stand around our cars too!

oooh, i dont envy you they are a bitch to take out on the rb25... on the rb20 its just the 2 bolts that hold on the fuel rail, 2 fuel lines, injector plugs and the master feed injector power line. you dont need to take the plenum off here is a pic for those of you who are not scared.

CLEAN YOUR INJECTORS!!!!!!!!! i just pulled mine out today, the car was running fine but i decided to replace them with a set i just had cleaned to be on the safe side. when i pulled out the fuel rail i got a nasty suprise. The caps on the end were cracked and the injectors were full of gunk. after flowtesting them 1 was down to 250!!! and 2 were 255. when they should all be 270. the new set i put in flowed at 285 each. the responsiveness it much better. if i didnt replace them the car could have leaned out and gone bang... if you have bought a car and not had them tested yet it only takes 1 hour to take em out and 1 hour to have em cleaned and an hour to put them back in. you dont know what condition one of the most important things for keeping your engine safe are in. you wouldnt drive without oil would you? CLEAN YOUR INJECTORS PEOPLE!!! here is a quick guide 1.you need to remove 2 bolts one on the front and one on the back of the fuel rail. 2. remove the fuel supply and retiur lines from the rail/regulator assembly 3. remove the bolt from the bracket that supports the rail at front under regulator 4. remove injector clips, i did this with tiny long nose pliers, then unplug all the injectors. dont worry about marking them they are all labled. 5. you can now wiggle the fuel rail out about 40mm. you need to take out injector 5 and 6 to get the rail out from under the plenum. slide the rail out and check the grommets are NOT on the injector bottoms over the pintle cap. make sure there is a grommet in every hole in the plenum. wiggle out the injectors from the fuel rail. put them in a clean plastic container and take them to cleaning place. PUTTING EM BACK IN... when putting injectors in the rail be very careful to push evenly as not to squash the o rings. put in injector 1, 2, 3, 4 Slide the rail back in place. once in place replace injector 5 and 6. this is quite hard. PLUGS! injector 6 comes from the main harness. injector 5 comes from the wires on the fuel rail and 4, 3, 2, 1 cone from the injector harness and are labled. replace all the clips. push the injerctors into holes in plenum and bolt the rail in place. connect up the fuel supply and return lines and bolt the bracket back into place. repressurise the rail by turning the car back to "on" check for leaks... drink cold beer and tell your mates how cool you are cause you fix your own car:)

great turbo for an rb20 it wil lag, a bit like a t3/4 with a .63 exhaust housing but it will make serious power. i cant remember the exact configuration but there was a model made for the rb20.

i will be getting it dyno'd over the next week roy so i will post resaults with graph as soon as its done