CEF11E

Ok so no one has used on of these i guess... so would this be the same idea as the norgen valves?

there is a black loop at the back of the cam cover that you use insted of the spark plug leads. be careful reading the timing as there is sevral marks on the cover below the crankshaft wheel that line up with the timing belt mark. if unsure just take it to a midas and they will ajust it to whatever you want for $15 bux

Heya, found these and i am wondering if they are any different to a bleed valve? Turbotech - Precision Manual Boost Controller Don’t be fooled by inferior quality imitations- Install a Turbotech today!! A mechanically engineered manual boost controller- engineered for: Ø Faster spool up, Ø Significantly reduced turbo lag Ø Super smooth boost delivery, Ø Virtually no boost spiking that cheaper mass produced items are notorious for The Turbotech is installed inline between the turbo and the waste gate to fine tune the required amount of boost for your application. It is not uncommon to achieve performance gains equivalent to 10 horsepower per 1psi increase in boost levels. What does this mean for the quarter mile runner? For every 10hp increase in engine performance, 1/10 of a second can be sliced of your 1/4 mile time. Installing the Turbotech is the most effective and cheapest mod you can make to your car to achieve significant horse power gains- instantly! Skylines, Lasers, Supras, 300ZXs, commodores, charades, 3000GTs, RX-7s, MR-2s, WRXs, PT Cruisers, EVOs, Celicas, Civics, Integras, you name it. If its got a turbo fitted, the Turbotech offers instant exhilaration! Turbotech takes only 10-15 minutes to install and requires only a very limited set of tools. Even with no mechanical knowledge, the Turbotech is completely idiot proof to install. The unit comes with a complete set of clear instructions and diagram. *PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS NOT JUST A BLEED VALVE – This is a quality engineered precision instrument for fine tuning boost pressure. Some backyard mechanics like to think that a bleed valve is a ‘boost control valve’, however, all a bleed valve does is restrict pressure flow. This is NOT controlling boost pressure as it is not a one way valve, a bleed valve allows pressure flow both ways and out to atmosphere. They allow back pressure which hinders fast spool up and causes excessive turbo lag because much of the unused pressure gets sucked back toward the turbo during negative boost and tries to slow down the turbine- much like having someone pulling on your shirt while trying to run. This problem creates what is known as TURBO LAG, a condition where bleed valves or mass produced and badly engineered boost controllers can’t control the boost, which can and will cause expensive damage to your engine- avoid this at all costs. Turbotech boost controllers are PURPOSE designed and individually BENCH TESTED prior to being sold. The Turbotech with its high tensile spring and ball bearing design, is adjusted to increase your turbo’s performance, while greatly reducing turbo lag and achieving positive boost faster by faster spooling. Why is this unit different? The Turbotech is designed to prevent the turbo from back pressure and boost spiking. It does this two ways, after positive boost and driver backs off, the valve slams shut allowing zero pressure to back up and interfere with the re-spooling of the turbo. Any small amount of pressure then trapped between the Turbotech and the wastegate actuator is eliminated via a specifically sized ‘excess pressure valve’. Inferior boost controllers do NOT allow the venting of unused boost and thus causing BOOST SPIKING- ^^Expect SIGNIFICANT PERFORMANCE GAINS** THE Turbotech is made from high grade stainless steel and brass. As air contains moisture (H20), poor quality boost controllers are made from materials such as tin or plain steel that will rust and corrode and will result in rapid deterioration of performance. Note: It is highly recommended that a boost gauge and fuel/air gauge be used in conjunction with this product as excessive boost can cause severe engine damage. Turbotech take no responsibility for damage how so ever caused so please use common sense. this is my understanding of how they work in the diagram below would you say this is correct? and i am only after a cheap slight boost up to say 10psi so an electronic controller is out of the question. has anyone had any experience with these? they are on ebay for $22.50 btw

any of those days are good. shit it takes a long time to organise stuff like this. hopefully we should have a few new faces/cars there I think the drive to wiseman's ferry would be cool. all those ceffies on the ferry at the same time would be cool.

sup dudes. I need electric window parts for the drivers side window for my nissan gloria. they should be the same as a ceff, laurel or cima. does anyone have the bits or know a wrecker that would have the bits in sydney?

Just to confirm that is exactly the same as the turbo i purchased.

Find out who made the turbo before you buy it. I bought a t3/t4 stage 3 from ebay rated at 550 hp. it looks the same as the one in the photo. and i also bought the external waste gate pictured First thing i did was take the turbo to GCG to get some gaskets and they had a look at it and informed me it had not been vsr balanced. and told me it will prob not last very long. They also told me they had seen sevral of these turbos destroyed after only a few hundred k's I dis regarded their advice and put the turbo on my car. THe turbo made a herendous noise and almost no boost. i thought the turbo was working fine but was too big for the application and was not developing enough exhaust gas to spool the turbo up. after a week of trying to get it to work and after lots of research i decided to take the turbo off and inspect it. To my suprise the exhaust wheel had been scraping the exhaust housing and had left big score marks in the housing and grinded the wheel to buggary. the turbo had massive ammounts of shaft play and was useless. After much argueing and stuffing around the seller took it back (only after confirming the turbo was not vsr balanced from gcg) The supplier returned EVERY SINGLE turbo he had bought from the manufacturer as mine was the 4th out of 4 turbos he sold to fail. Thats 100% failure rate. i would rather set fire to the money and dance around it rather than go through that again.

man thats an annoying problem. The only 2 things i could think of are 1. The solanoid to the wastegate actuator is surging or broken causing all the boost to exit throught the wastegate. and this is starving the engine of airflow. and thats why the hose you mention is collapsing. 2. the bearings in the turbo arfe gone or going or there is to much shaft play and the turbine is coming in contact with the housing at any decent level of boost, this in turn stops the turbo from producing boost and the engine is starving of air flow again. Either way i would get that piece of hose replaced with something stiffer or possibly get the "hot pipe" extended to be closer the the outlet of the turbo and just have an inch or so of silicon hose connecting it to the turbo. hope this helps!

so this is just a bleed valve and pressure regulator? or is it electronic in any way?

I cant remember about the pads. i think i used ferodo 2500 s13 pads Green Afm is a later model and is not compatible but if you need a spare you will find one on a r31 GTS T or i think an a32 maxima. there are 2 pop in type fittings directly above the number plate they are molded in plastic in the bumper and little slots in the bumper support pannel. hope this helps

These engines are good "if" you have an rb20 and want to make a hybrid. you use the rb24 block, crank and rods as these give a longer stroke than the rb20. and you use the head, pistons, and intake, exhaust manifolds from the rb20. This Gives you a RB24DET. these are very revvy engines and produce better torque than the rb20 because of the stroke. also having a bigger capacity helps a lot too. You need bigger cams if you want to make any decent power out of em' (more than 220rwkw) just buy an rb20 motor loom and computer and build a RB24DET. you will have something a little different too they also have some small advantages over the rb25. 1. rb20 heads dont blow ringlands anywhere as often 2. rb20 upgrade injectors are easier to come by than side feed 3. it looks standard and will be impossible to tell once built!

Does anyone here know much about the vg20det turbo setup. the car it is in is a nissan gloria and its a singlr turbo simular to an rb20 turbo with actuator. but is it controlled by an electronic solanoid and if so where?

If its the 25th i will not be able to make it. nevermind i dont have a ceff anyways

sup dudes, even tho i dont own a ceff any more can i come along with my pimp mobile?

seriously its pretty stupid to post a car with out a price. i mean i have no idea how much you are looking for it. from your discription you make it sound close to immaculate but then it the photo your front bumper is all out of whack. so i have no idea what the car is worth. just post a price you want and if its too high you will know soon enough. it looks like a nice car. you will sell it if you post a price.

some of you guys wouldnt know style if it bit you on the ass! that looks fuc#ing sick! they make the car look so sleek and the chrome really suits the white and also suits the door handles. All you need to do now kursed is get a front bar thats a bit fatter and remove the mudflaps. oh and get a pimp style grille

CC my cefiro had a 5 puck unsprung bb aswell if you remember what it was like to drive. It did take me a while to get used to. but from what i remember you drove it with no porbs. i still have that amp and button for u

I have also heard horror storied about penrite hpr oils. also hot fours did a test years ago about what the best oil and i think penrite came in LAST place competing with the others Royal Purple came in first for engine protection I have been using Motul turbolite 4100 for the last 30,000 kms and its the best value for money while still offering excellent performance. Even after seeing a drift day and high stress/tempuratures it performs very well. and it smells nice too :wassup:

no problems with the rims. ttey are in good nick. I will take a few good photos and put them up here for you cheers dudes!

sold!!

found one already! cheers guys

Hi guys, i urgently need an RB20 air flow meter part number 22680-16v00 i am in sydney and if anyone has one please call me on 0425 360 355. thanks!

hi kids, I have a standard airbox with the intake and filter complete if anybody needs it. it came off my gloria but is the same as a cefiro airbox. if anyone wants it as they have been found to be better than the o'l pod in the engine bay trick. only lets cold air in and flows really well. Make your car look more standard for rego perhaps? i was quoted $200 for one when i was looking for one for my cefiro and i thought that was a stupid price so its here if anyone wants it for $50

bump

yeah i was there! wow i have been spotted!