CEF11E

cool i am up for a unigroup dyno day yep the tin shed is ghetto...

if u want another dyno day we can do the "tin shed dyno" thing again!!! unless u can think of a better place:) it will be $50 per head.

vg30et vg30det. straight bolt in.

you can quieten your exhaust be getting 2 metal platet thaf fit between your front pipe and your cat and between your cat and rear pipe make em the same size and shape as the flange but drill about 50 holes in them about 6mm. this WILL get your car under 90 DB. mine was 118!!!! i did this and got it down to 86db to get it thru rego. it will run like shi tho dont boost it like this!

consider the turbo sold! i will pm u my details.

it will be fine. I have my car boosted from 4.5 psi to 9.5 pis with the controller and it works very well at that boost level

That's Ingenious! why didnt i think of that! if my car used a solanoid to control boost thats ecactly what i would do. Only problem is the boost delivery would not be linear. does it boost then drop off and then boost again? using the solanoid?

Read The Fuc+$ng Rules!!!!!!! You Have To Post A Price

Looks right to me. at first it looked like u had it on backwards! but it looks fine. Those spongey silicone flex hoses sometimes cause spiking because they expand and contract when under pressure. also those clamps look like they coule be a little tighter. i would replace the clamps with worm drive ones. if one of those come off when boosting and you dont notice 30psi and a dead engine here we come! also i would get vacuum hose insted of the fancy bule stuff hope this helps! Also... are you getting the boost pressure strait from the turbo? it kinda looks like it, its been a while since i have looked at an mr2. its prob best if you can get the boost strait from the compressor housing nipple.

is the s14 registerable? or is it an race use only import? what condition is the body in? I am very interested and if you can post up some photos that would be great how many k's on the 1/2 cut. any mods?

so who is meeting at the shell and where exactly is the shell? i wanna come along but i am not sure where the shell is

Yep i agree mark. you should patent these. if this is just one forum for one model of car and you have sold like 30 of them to us. Imagne if you distributed this on every car forum around the world.

I will be there if its not a hella long drive, keen to go for a drive with some ceffs... keen to see the ceff crew again

hey champ, did you buy that other bleed valve from me? and it didnt do the job? sorry to hear that. just follow the instructions on the bit of paper and you will be fine

hey andy you cant leave the solanoid connected its gotta go!!!! it will think its still incontrol and mess things up. you will need to connect it as i discribed

ok. from the diagram... take 5 of the solanoid and connect 5 to the SIDE of the boost controller. take(to air duct) off the solanoid and connect it to the BOTTOM of the boost controller and you are done so you leave the solanoid completly out of the loop. and you are unpluging both connections from the solanoid and using them both for the new boost controller

1. Can I just replace the GFB unit with your one with the same connections? Yes. 1.connect the line coming from the actuator to the SIDE connection of the new controller 2. connect the other hose that was on the GFB to the BOTTOM of the new controller thats it! try it out and post your results for us! note exactly what boost you were running before, how much it spiked and what rpm you got full boost at. and then test the new controller and note the same things. the more results we have the better for others to make a decision on wether this controller will be right for them

this is a direct replacement. take out your bleed valve put this in ecaxtly where the bleed valve was. time to install 2min

I went to extreme mesures when my car was stolen. I took the ECU out. no one would be able to start it. no matter how good a theif they were. When my car was stolen they stripped intercooler BOV EBC Stereo, subs, amp guages ahhh lots of stuff + thrashed the crap out of it and killed the gearbox. and trashed the interior and dented it in a few places. All up the damage bill was over $6000. I got the car back and spent lots of money getting everything fixed. Take my advice 1. have an alarm with a flashing light and immobilizer WITH SIREN INSIDE THE CAR!!!! 2. take out the ECU or igniter or a something that stops the car from being started 3. INSURE YOUR CAR!!! if you dont insure it dont be sad when its stolen. its a sad fact that there are people willing to steal YOUR car, but it is a fact. it WILL HAPPEN TO YOU!!!. protect yourself and insure it. thats the best thing you can do.

Glad u got it working man yes i would remove the "T" peice and block off that line but you have it installed correctly. glad to help

From the picture i can see the solanoid is still connected. I would advise to disconnect it. As i have never seen under the bonnet of an r34 i cant see where all those connections are going. if you wanted to test it and isolate the the problem. 1. look at the turbo compressor housing. these should be a hose coming off it connect this to the BOTTOM of the boost controller and leave the other side connected to the actuator as you have it.

something is going wrong there. Its going to be related to the solanoid. You should prob bypass the solanoid and supply the boost controller with pressure from the compressor side of the turbo

I second that motion! It would be nice if all skyliners had one of these. it would be great if the were for sale in the trading section because everyone would know where to get one.

I have been using mine for a couple of weeks now and have had 100% reliability. definatly the best $30 i spent on a car!!! I should have asked the guy for a kick back! I would have enough for a free beer now!!! I just like it when i find a cheap, great quality, simple product that works better than almost anything else. Its so rare these days i just thought i would share it so we can all have one! and i am not suprised the dude put up his price! for $22 or whatever it was he cant have been making much cash. The bits alone would have cost $10 and then he has to machine them and paint them! and by the looks of things they will hold anything up to 20psi with a good deal of accuracy.

these intercoolers are great. I had one on my cefiro pushing 1.2 bar during drift days and intake temps never went over 35~40. with the previous cooler i had (almost same size as the hybrid copy) it got up to 55!! Keep in mind. those coolers are huge! you will need to mod your front bar to fit but its deff worth the while