CEF11E

I gotta agree. I love the TVR cebera speed 12 . ugly as hell, but a race car with indicators. I have been in one and it was loud, and the fastest thing i have ever been in.http://www.pistonheads.com/tvr/cerbera/gt2_2.htm they dont have airconditioning or a real interior for that matter, or a radio.

I got 200rwkw out of my rb20 spending a lot less than that. Exhaust 3" turbo back $700 r33 turbo hiflowed $800 hybrid intercooler $200 Intercooler piping custom $220 ecu retune an ddyno time $300 boost controller turbotech $30 fuel pressure regulator $170 fuel pump $145 total $2565. Everything was new except for the turbo. it was a secondhand hiflow. but I have seen decent new turbos for $1200 anyway so for less then $3000 you can have 200rwkw.

you are asking to have it stolen. especially having stickers all over it. trust me its 16 year old kids that steal cars and they see stickers and shiny chrome and want it. My freinds 2004 model M3 was stolen by 16 year old kids. If they can steal an m3 they can steal anything. and riced up skylines are first on their list... put a tough bodykit on it and nice te37s or something and a 3" exhaust and leave it at that. you will regret ricing it. trust me. RICE BELONGS ON PIMPMOBILES AND VIP CARS!!!

I have bought and sold sevral performance cars and the following applies. If you are buying: Respect the seller, ask them to take you for a drive. if you are still interested tell them you are interested in the car and offer a small deposit to drive it with them in the car. (50 or 100) dont thrash it, its not yours yet. if you are selling: take your time sussing the buyer, ask themif they have had a fast car before, most of the time they are so stoked to see your car they will anser anything you ask them. let them ask for a test drive dont offer it. take them for a drive and dont overly push the car dont spin the wheels. this shows you respect your own property. drive back to the place where you met them, ask them if they are interested in your car if they say yes, and express interest in driving it. Explain to them you are weary of letting others drive your car as you have had joyriders and they can drive it if they are genuinely interested. but no silly driving. take down their lisence details, take them on a good long drive (20 min) this will give them a feel for the car. by that stage they will have made their mind up about the car. I have had a joyrider i did not pick untill they were behind the wheel he was like 45 well dressed, and made it sound like he wanted the car ASAP. I let him behind the wheel and he drove normally for a while and then off the lights he dumped the clutch and readlined it in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. we were going 120kmph almost sideways. I yelled for him to slow down he didnt really let up. I yelled slow down!!!!!!! again. he did. and i asked him to pull over. I got in the drivers seat and i was shocked. I drove him back to his car fuming, he just didnt get it. when we got back, I let him out, locked my car in the garage and said to him "the car is not for sale to an idiot like you" and went inside. he drove off. never heard from him again. I acted like that to prevent me from loosing my temper and hitting him... anyway thats my rant...

you don't know what you are talking about... read what it actually does before spewing your verbal diarrhea stinking opinions all over the internet... do you think you are smarter than all 150 people who have bought this controller? How about Cubes who build his own hybrid rb25/30 hybrid? Would he use one of these if it worked like a hole in a piece of hose after going to all the effort of custom building an engine? You are an idiot, plain and simple... :flamer:

yeah i gotta agree why would you want that turd on your dash.

yep what SK said except its a Gloria not a Cefiro. i used to have a cefiro insted. you can feel the power difference, but its the responsiveness you notice most. the car is more nimble. as soon as you put your foot down, because the mixtures are better it takes less time before it starts to accellerate. and as SK said earlier, the car has no intercooler so as i was tuning it and doing 3 or 4 power runs back to back it was suffering from heat soak. so it probably is 10kw better everywhere. I probably should have left it to cool down a bit to do a final run but i had run out of dyno time and i am not really that interested in a power figure. i really just wanted better fuel economy. If you wanted i am sure you could tune for more power. :uh-huh:

sorry cc i have been lazy. i will help u out with content. I will scribble everything down i know about cefiros. I should know a bit about em' i spent the best part of 6 month under one of the fuxors!!! was thinking waterspray kit, i will write what i did here boost controller, easy one! you can do this one now mate!! turbo upgrade, i will write what i did hre too install new diff centre, easy one byt ask anthony as i did a bodgy job. install frontmount (ask mys013) his cooler and piping are the best, tnx to anthony wheel and brake options basic track needs.

if u have a look at the left hand side of the graph you will see it corrisponds to a number. that number is the ammount taken out at any spacific load point. and the number is what the DFA gives you as a correction value eg at loadpoint 56 i am taking -6 out of the fuel map using the dfa. If you look at the dyno graph i posted you will see exactly how much fuel it is taking out. it went from 9.5 - 1 to 11.5 - 1. no pinging as i tuned it properly on the dyno

don't do it. it will endup costing like 5g to get it done, and although the car will be very well balanced for drift, If you spent the same money on castor rods, good bushes, swaybars and coilovers. the car will handle perfectly for drift. + RB20s are great little drift engines!!! just add cams, and an 2530 and you have got 200rwkw and 8000rpm of reving power!!!

Sorry for the delay, I have been sick for a week. I have noticed the car was sluggish under 3500 rpm since the tune so i changed the loadpoints 61~66 and it fixed the problem. The car is now even more powerful and responsive. PLEASE NOTE!!!!!! dont under any circumstances use these loadpoints as a "how to tune your car" guide as every engine is different. and this map is for a VG20det, a very different beast to the rb20/25. :uh-huh:

Also have you considered chemical induction like nitrous or other oxygen rich gasses? I have heard about people with 5lt bottles of 50/50 oxygen/nitrogen being injected into turbocharged engines!!! sounds extremly dangerous to me tho

yep the cooler the better, however i know what he means. As air is cooled it increases oxygen density but also decreases the space it occupies. these things are both good, however if you agressivley cool air in from 100deg to 20deg the volume it takes up decreases too much and can slow down velocity going into the engine and also causes turbulance. thus decreasing the volume of air into the engine. I didnt belive this untill I saw a drag car do back to back runs. run 1 with a water to air intercooler with -20 deg coolant (metho frozen) and run 2 with ambient coolant. I cant remember what the time difference was but the ET was .5 of a second better with the ambient coolant. I am only going off what i have seen and been told so if i am incorrect dont flame me too hard

Distributor? whats that??? j/k.. I havent seen one of those for a long time. :0

Aieech!! tuning 2 piggybacks is that difficult? and will it require lots of dyno time? I would think you would get the fueling close to right. then do the timing just enough to stop the ecu from going rich and retard. then get the AFR's perfect. then get your timing perfect. how much was the SITC? I have never seen one before.

I just got back from having the car tuned on the dyno with the DFA. and i now have a result i know is safe and will use a lot less fuel. It took about an hour and lots of runs because i have never tuned a car before so it was a learning process for me First I confirmed the o2 sensor was working by checking mixtures at idle and light throttle. bang on 14.5... as soon as you accelerate it goes rich and dosent use the o2 sensor. So we did a power run (the blue line on the dyno sheet below) rich as buggary:0 while we did the power run i was mapping where the load points were at what rpm. example: idle 27-29 3000 60-62 3500 67-70 4000 73-77 and wrote them all down. once that was done we looked at where it needed leaning out and went into view mode and started making changes at the load points needed wich was evrywhere at first. then did a power run. then looked at the graph. and repeated the process. The result i got was quite good all things considering. I kept it a bit rich because i am not chasing power really just better fuel economy and i dont have an intercooler so i didn't want it to ping. the only bit i would have liked to fix was the damn 5200~5400 fuel dump. i tried 3 runs to fix it and it got better every time but i just couldn't get rid of it entirley. all up the car drives better is more responsive and there is more power everywhere. and it uses less fuel!!! my car is a 1988 Nissan Gloria VG20det auto no intercooler my mods are pod filter, 10psi boost, catback exhaust and thats it! pretty good power for a standard car! especially considering its auto!!! B-Man LOOK WHAT I DID TO YOUR CAR!!! hehe!! i love it mate its a top little car i look after it dont worry

one of your major problems will be getting the power out of the engine at less than 8000 rpm. anything higher and the non solid lifters will give up after time. so you will need massive cams. and as much porting you can do before getting into the water jackets. also a custom plenum and big throttle body. but I am sure you know all this already. are you going to use water/methanol injection and ice in the water to ait intercooler? making it strong wont be all that hard there are always bits for that. just getting enough air thru the rb20 head is going to be your biggest challenge. very interested with your progress i will be following this threafd also.

Yuo have got it where in the right place. thats the solanoid you have taken out of the loop. and yes its what was controlling the boost before. From the photo it looks like it is wound up to like 20psi!!! you need to screw the bolt almost all the way out. so that these are only a bout 3 - 4mm of thread i n the controller. then test drive it and make sure boost is standard level then tighten it about 1/4 of a turn and drive it again. do this untill you have reached your desired boost level If you wind the bolt out all the way and the car still overboosts, you have got the hoses connected around the wrong way on the controller. (i cant tell from the photo) If this is the case just swap the hoses around on the conteoller. hope that explains it all;)

Thanks SK that does help me quite a lot I will give it another go on a dyno that actually works!

I decided to check my AFR's after doing my initial test with a wideband sensor. so off i went to a dyno and I had the following issues. the first run on the dyno, The AFR's were all over the place from 16 to 9 and up and down like a yo yo. so we gave it another run and it was still all over the place. at this stage i was really worried so i cleared the maps i hade previously made and decided to start from scratch. fine. did another run with no changes to the Delta Voltage. and it was all over the fricken place, the dyno gut then said the sensor was causing turbulance in the exhaust and that was the problem but it should be ok. OK my ass!!! i was not going to tune my car without knowing the AFR's. you might as well turd in your air flow meter and say yep its tuned right now. so i was pissed off i wasted half a day and lost all the maps i had made earlier that were probably fine. so what to do? I just want the car tuned properly. what i need to know is a few details about how you guys tuned with the DFA as in did you tune it in view mode or run mode? how did you keep the load points steady? would someone in sydney be prepared to help me tune my car? like meet me at a dyno place and show me how its done. there could be beer in it for you

you will need a resistor pack or to wire resistors in series with the injectors as the impeadance will not suit the rb20 ecu (i assume you are using an rb20 ecu) injectors should cost $200 - $250 clean and flow test $100 (never put un cleaned and tested injectors in. gtr resistor pack $50 - 100 it ends up being a fairly expensive process budget $450 + tune rx7 series 5 injectors are the correct inmedance if i remember correctly. you can pick them up for like $25-35 each good luck. that must be a big ass mofo turbo to max em out at 11psi. I am guessing you are hitting to 200-210rwkw mark?

agree. Pfttt. this pretty much prooves its a pile of sh*t "GFB Slight Boost spike mid range of about 1.22psi @ 16psi 1.95psi drop off at 7900rpm. Quicker spool than standard by 800rpm. Adjustment alot more accurate. Price: Afordable" we all know a normal bleed valve will not spool up quicker than a controller with ball/spring operation. pretty silly way of advertising a competing product. he could of atleast researched his compatition before trashing it! Also unless i see graphs i dont belive it either as i have personally tested, and infact i was the FIRST person on SAU to try this product and i compared it to a GFB and ithe turbotech was much better. the guy selling them is the one trying to stake a claim in somone elses thread. Thats called Hijacking. c. I THINK IT SHOUL BE A BANNABLE OFFENCE!!!! selling skyline owners dodgy products! my 2c

I have a Y31 nissan gloria and my struts are wearing out. I would like to replace them with coilovers but cant find any! Is it hard to modify a set to suit? where can i find a set for a reasonable price? (less than $1000 for a secondhand set) does anyone know what else fits?

hey, my freind and i pimped up my car. BEFORE AFTER we added wheels, sideskirts and tinted the window darkes and some other bits. what do you think should my car have these wheels :jk:

I have the DFA in the car and have given the car a light tune using a wideband o2 sensor (I would not reccomend doing this as you are quite often doing 140kmph to get the right AFR's at load in a high gear) I was able to get 12.5 to 1 almost all the way thru the rev range. 0000 to 2000 RPM 13 to 1. no boost and cruising. 2000 to 3200 RPM 12.5 to 1. from 0 psi to full boost. 3200 to 4500 RPM 11.5 to 1. otherwise it would put too much timing in. 4500 to 7000 RPM 12.5 to 1. pretty happy here! the tune took me pressing buttons and a freind driving about an hour. I am very happy with the result. and I havent dynoed it yet but will give a before and after figure as soon as i dyno it. as i also want to check to see if the afr's are correct on another o2 sensor. but i would have to say with no other mods I would estimate a 25RWKW gain in the midrange and top end pretty cheap 20 odd rwkw if you ask me!!!