CEF11E

not sure ofver years but running tolulene and Ethanol has been common practice in racing for many years. not sure how this effects the longevity of a road going cars engine though. Its better for the environment to use ethanol so i am going to give it a go.

General consensus for a long time has been that BP Ultimate was the best 98 RON fuel in Asutralia. Guess again - BP Ultimate gave the least power: Results were: Ethanol 98 > Vortex 98 > Mobil Synergy 8000 > Optimax > BP Ultimate Click here for the full report interesting stuff, i grabbed it from OCAU thought you guys might like to know

you need one of those fully sic rb20s ded stock from tha wreker and bolt on a truk turbo. my cousins got one in his VL and it runs 9s!!! with 1001hp. if you want a real anser ask a real question.

this is THE cleanest cefiro available. looks almost new. I have seen it, been in it and it is the best condition cefiro i have seen. its a great price too

It will be a personal import and will be a simular process to a 15 year import. you will be best off posting this in the importation section someone will know there.

yep its got to be replaced, beu you will need the debigulation gasket kit. also your occelation revomitor will need ionising.

there is a picture of the light working next to the original globe ^^^ up there I will take a couple of pictures when i get back to sydney. I am in the land of fireworks and porn at the moment cheers dudes

Hi dudes, I am mooving to the back to the ACT after living in sydney for 5 years and gotta get my car re registered here. Everywhere i call they ask me what sort of car it is. I say a nissan importand they give me heaps of ohhh, i dont know, ummm mabyee. garbage.... Mycar came in under the 15 year rule and is legally registered in NSW. I just had it inspected a month ago and it passed with no problems but i took it somwhere today and the guy went over the car and just picked on the most trivial stuff. I went on the RTA website and checket what he said and 90% of it was garbage. it comlies to ACT standard he just didnt like me or didnt want to pass the car or something. so i paid my $38 for a list of fails that are nonsense. I dont really want to get into it. but i just want to know where you guys would go to get your car inspected. if youcan PM me a place to go to get it inspected i wouldbe very grateful Cheers guys

those BOV's are excellent. $150 is a bargin i had on on my RB20.

there is a new law in the states, Limit of 5 pick axes per customer.

hmmm. I know it will be cheap to buy a bottom end but if i rebuild mine at least i know what i have running. so i think i might still go ahead with it. any ideas on how much the folllowing bits cost> bearings head gasket and other gaskets needed set of rings What needs to be done to the block and how much?

I am putting an Rb20 in an old R31 i have and the engine has a cracked piston but the bore is OK and the engine is otherwise fine. The car is for daily driving and i wont be chasing big power it will just be 12 psi on the standard turbo. What is the minimum ammount of parts and labour needed to to get operational. I want it done properly not dodgily. but dont want to spend a forturne. What bits am i going to need. Cheers!!!

Stop it!!! you are making baby jesus cry...

I too have eaten 2 RB20 boxes in my cefiro running a 200rwkw RB20. you need an rb25 box for sure

I got the LEDs and resistors from jaycar electronics.

Whassup dudes I made some of these so I had real white light not piss yellow lighting for my car. So I decided to make a quick guide for all the peoples that want white light for their cars! What ever lights you want to replace you will need bulbs that fit that type of socket. This will work for all low voltage applications that are 12V in cars. Interior lights, numberplate lights, parkers, festoons ect . You will need: your old globes you want to replace LEDs: CAT. NO. ZD0194 they are like $2 each. Resistors part number: RR0559 they are about $2 for eight. Solder Soldering iron Pliers Wire cutters 1. Cut the positive side of the LED 5mm from the base. Cut a resistor 5mm from the resistor base. 2. Solder the 2 together with the short sides overlapping 3. Test the LED with a 12V DC power supply to make sure it works 4. Take your old light globe and carefully break the glass by squeezing it with the pliers, remove all the shards of glass and remove the filament between the 2 wires in the globe 5. You need to solder the LED/RESISTOR assembly to the inside wires of the light globe. This is a fiddly job and you will need to tin the joints to make it easier. 6. The LED/RESISTOR needs have the correct polarity to work. But every globe is different so if you solder it one way and it doesn’t work then you have got it backwards! Once you have made one put it in the socket and see how it goes! Follow the step by step photos if you get stuck. The results are awsome!

Not knowing what your turbo will push out at 20+ psi, My dad once said to me "an engine is only as strong as the weakest part" in this case i think it is going to be your con rods. I think 250RWKW is safe for RB20 rods. Also pushing that thru a standard RB20 plenum and head is reaching its limits. the motor if properly built will handle the boost pressure required to make this power figure.

Pimpin! are you a sydney sider? I have the car in my sig. a Y31 gloria and i too love teh pimpmobiles... what sort of engine is in it VG30det? You dont happen to have a pair of front struts spare do you or know somewhere i can get a set? If you are in sydney i would love to come and have a look at it as i have always loved the cimas. I want to organise a cruise for Cimas, cedrics and glorias. Cheers mate

SK is right dude. if you have to stick with an S13 chassis (a great choice by the way) Build a SR20det using a JUN stroker kit 2450ccs of goodnes. Less pistons, valves to break, Timng chain not belt and you will retain good weight distrabution. Plus you will have more torque than an RB24det. and you will need less power as the weight distrabution will be better. and pushing a 2.4 litre motor to produce 500bhp/370 odd kilowatts at the rear wheels is asking for it in a drift machine. Stick to 300 rear wheel kilowatts. you will have much better throttle response and a bullet proof engine if you use the JUN bits and a good tune. 300rwkw is more than enough power to be compedative. I know guys that win major events with 200rwkw. and they drive s13s Goodluck mate. Dont go the RB24 you will regret it later

Hi champ, could be your fuel pump or air flow meter. does it hunt sometimes while ideling. if so take out the air flow meter and give it a clean with carby cleaner. dont touch the wires just give em a good spray. then reset the ECU by disconnecting the posative terminal on the battery while a mate keeps his foot on the brake. do this for 3 min and then reconnect the terminal and the ECU will be reset. If thats not the problem it may be your fuel pump is on its way out. is it ever noisy?

thanks mate. cheers.

everyone has a different figure in mind. I had one running at 12psi let go after a few weeks I had another i was running at 16psi for almost a year in my car even drifted it like that and it never broke Now I wouldnt push it past 13psi. after that it is just pushing hot air anyway.

sorry dude i didnt understand a word of that. Is it piston number 6 that needs replacing? The reason i want to know is by the looks of how the plenum has been modified the last cylender will be running lean. thats probably why it blew. Also how is the head supposed to breathe thru the cam covers if there is no ventilation? I am interested i just want some sort of anser. Thanks!

How is the top of the engine able to breathe? it looks like the cam cover holes are plugged up is that right? Also I am guessing it is cylender no6 that needs a new piston. Has the head been taken off to see if the block is still OK? does it turn over and run? very interested...

I was going to anser this but you should really use the search button. not being rude but it has been covered over 100 times.