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CEF11E

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Everything posted by CEF11E

  1. rb30 - single syncro per gear, same casing as rb20 box same gearsets. rb20det dual syncro per gear same gear set as above same strength rb25. same gear ratios as rb20 but bigger shafts, stronger splines and carrier gears and double sincros. bigger casing and stronger yoke. rb30et. same as above but only single syncros and less ribbing on the casing (i think its 5 ribs insted of 7) I have also been told the rb30et boxes come in 2 different ratios. If you look in the forsale section here from time to tome you will find a wrecked r33 with reasonable k's and you will be able to get a box for $1100. I have seen them from $900 but not often that cheap. these boxes are very difficult to brake so if you get one from a stock car it should be in good condition. :]
  2. I wolldnt go another rb20 box if i was going to be going to the drags, racing or drift. I broke 2 rb20 boxes within a year in my cefiro. and i didnt have a stupid ammount of power either. 165rwkw when i got the car and 195rwkw when i sold it. but i did have a brass button clutch. both times it was the input shaft that went. First time it stripped and second time it actually broke! you can get an rb25 box for $1100 to $1500 if u look around and it only takes a few hours to shap it yourself if you have stands or ramps.
  3. Quick questions for those of you who have tuned you car with the DFA. How long did it take you to tune it on the dyno? did you do a power run, look at the AFR's and then tune in view mode? or did you tune on the fly? (this sounds scary to me) did you disconnect the oxygen sensor while you were tuning?
  4. my DFA works 100% i have installed and tested it here is a photo 4 u. Just be patient. its a difficult project especially for a novice like me, but in the end you will get it working. and the results will be well worth it.
  5. hey champ i have a nissan gloria with a vg20 turbo. and i know a vg20 turbo fits a rb20 so i guess a rb20 turbo fits a vg20! having said that an rb25 turbo will also fit and be a decent upgrade.
  6. hehe funny!!! thanks for your advice SK. I got it working perfectly I had a couple of issues. and anyone else using a 12v powersupply should also trim down VR4 so it switches in at 11V (all the way clockwise) otherwise if the powersupply drops the dfa will switch off. once that was sorted it was easy to calibrate and test the DFA Its going in the car tomorrow . but I dont want to tune it untill i have cleaned the injectors.
  7. OK i need some help. I have boilt the DFA and I am having issues and dont want to blow it or my car up so I need help from someone who has installed one. The DFA powers up perfectly, I can go into VIEW, RUN and LOCK modes. I can also scroll thru all load points and voltage incraments. here is a diagram AS you can see i have supplied 12.1V and ground to the input and that allows me to srcoll thru all the functions. I have connected 5.1V to the input of the DFA (green wire) i know 5.1V is not perfect but i dont have a lab power supply so i am using an ATX computer power supply. I have then measured the output of the DFA/multimeter/ground. the problem is the output is 5.1V no matter what i do. I am not sure if i am measuring it correctly and need help. Anyone in sydney care to help me? there is beer in it for you any advice would be greatly appreciated
  8. AAHGGG!!! sont sell those dude they look sick on your car!!! but i am sure you have bought a better set these are selling for $1000 elsewhere so this is a really good deal!
  9. what size are the stag rims and what size are the tyres? sorry never seen a set before
  10. Hi Japtastic, we have 92 octane unleaded and most cars use that. then we have 95 octane called premium unleaded. and then we have shell optimax 98 octane and also bp ultimate 98 octane. I have also seen 100 octane fuel but it was an independant service station. we use 98 octane in performance cars here.
  11. modding cars is allways a risk. running 12 psi is a calculated risk. from all the data gathered you have to make your own decision. listen to others experience and follow it. ofcorse you will use more fuel, shorten the life of a ceramic wheel turbo and so on if you don't tune your car properly. But its like anything. I wouldnt run standard 92 octane petrol in my car and go boosting it everywhere because it is a risk. but speaking from experience 12psi is "fairly" safe with a stock turbo. However, I have seen them die at standard boost. and i have also seen them running 17psi without failing. the device is not dangerous, but yes like every aftermarket part you can buy for your car it is a bit of a gamble. but any device that increases boost presure is exactly the same. as for the increased timing in the lower rev range promoting pinging at 12 psi with this controller, if you run premium fuel and standard base timing you should never have a problem. in the end you have to make up your own mind... it me it's not even an issue,
  12. What you say is true to a certain extent. the r33 computer does provide more ignition advance lower down. and you should NEVER increase the boost with a standard car without checking AFR's and ignition timing. Having said that. i have never seen a probleb boosting a stock r33 to 10 psi.
  13. not sure where yet. agricultural suppliers supply nozzles that deliver water droplets measured in microns!
  14. Thanks for the response that all sounds great My duty cycle goes as high as 75% at full bost at redline so 75% of 270cc (the size of my injectors) = 202.5 so i would times that by 6 as there are 6 injectors 6 x 202.5 = 1215cc Giving that it looks like a nozzle that flows 120 to 180cc would be the right size? Also providing i am using deionized water i was told a standard fuel pump would be fine as it will be a 2:1 ratio of water-ethanol does all this sound correct? Also is ethanol acceptable as it is less corosive than methanol and easier to get.
  15. After careful consideration I have decided that intercooling my car is not possible without major modification that i do not want to undertake as it would be expensive and defeat the perpouse of a cheap performance gain. So my only other alternative would be to build a water/methanol-ethanol injection system so i can increase boost levels slightly Keep in mind I do not want to run huge boost or run a bigger turbo than standard. I just want to be able to run .9 bar. The other need for the water injection system is that i will be altering my AFR's using a Jaycar digital fuel adjuster and this will more than likely increase ignition advance. So i need to cool my intake charge. So I have decided to build a water injection system to lower cylender temps and to prevent detonation. The way i would like to hook the system up would be to use a nozzle in the intake pipe before the throttle body, then water line to a normal fuel pump (will be needed to overcome manifold pressure), then to a resivoir. I have decided to activate the system with a hobbs pressure switch at about 5psi. The switch will power on the pump inturn squirting the water-ethanol mixture into the intake manifold. The questions I have are 1. What flow rate should the nozzle flow be rated at for a 2litre VG20det engine running standard turbo and .9 bar boost 2. What mixture would be optimum for deionised water and ethanol of methanol? 3. will the added water in the combustion chainber reduce the amount of combustion space effectivly reducing the capacity of the engine? 4. I have also thought of injecting water after the AFM and before the turbo to atomise it better. Will this damage the turbo? I dont really like the idea of water going through the turbo. Any other valid information or experience would be greatly appreciated.
  16. Wanted: A cheap fuel pump second hand as long as it works! dosent matter what its off. I need one to build a water injection system for my car. will pay $30 for one i am not expecting a GTR pump just something that still works.
  17. 3tgte bored and stroked 420ps turbo lots o stuff stupidly fast with 70s handling! it was a real handfull to drive.
  18. yeah not really my thing but its different and i give it credit for that.... LOL i looked at that article and found an article about my old car there!!! clicky clicky ohhhh i miss that car is was a hardcore beast machine..
  19. If i was to disconnect the o2 sensor while tuning the DFA would i get a better result because the system would not be able to run in closed loop? Will this have any adverse effects? Was in nessacery to calibrate the DFA as per the jaycar instructions using the 10k trimpot if you are using it to read 0 to 5v from the AFM? I have heard sevral opinions on this depending on what your application is. One of the jaycar staff said its not needed if you are only using 0 - 5 volts (afm). I have read this thread from the first post and have not found either of these questions come up before. so any help would be greatly appreciated. Last Question!!! Where should i take my car to get dyno'd in sydney? Thanks !!!
  20. Cheers GTRgeoff I should have done that it would have been a lot quicker but my multimeter had a flat battery Do you need to plug in the hand controller to get the unit to power up?
  21. Here is a photo of the completed unit. I have confirmed the unit is working so you can use it as a reference
  22. Hi, I just built the Digital Fuel Adjuster And with my extremely limited knowlege ( I know what a capacitor, resistor and a diode is) I have about a year of soldering experience on very basic stuff. It took me about 4 to 5 hours to build. The instructions are very good the only problem i had was getting the resistors color coded to their values. my eyes are not that great! I have not calibrated it yet and would like to know if anybody else is in sydney that has built one that would be willing to help me calibrate it and fit it in the car + show me how to tune it correctly. Also who would you recommend to take the car to to get it dyno'd. The last place i took it to gave very questionable afr's and a very sus power figure. Also has anyone taken a photo of the completed DFA yet? i didnt buy the electronice for car book.
  23. HeHe!! That white gloria is mine :uh-huh: the pimp mobile is getting some sexy rim action soon:)
  24. Is your ECU taking a few degrees out at the top end? That power curve looks really nice but looks like its either maxing out you afms or taking out timing due to leaning out /pinging thats pushing the o'l injectors pretty hard! If you got a rebuild done i would prob spend the little extra and get some afms and injectors to complete the package. sorry if i sound like a pesamistic dic*head. looks like a really nice power curve, but i have seen too many cars pushed on standard injectors and go BOOM!!! great result tho
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