CEF11E

OK i have now ansered 46 private messagea about the turbo stuff. and no one has bought it yet. Its not like i am asking for a lot of money here the compressor wheel alone is worth $150. and i am throwing in another compressor, a gasket, a compressor housing and some silicone tube!!!!!!!!! somebody buy it or i will throw it in the bin.

hey Cubes, thats the one i am using and i hove found it very good, did you buy it after reading my thread on it here? how is it going have you used it yet?

Where is the cruise? when are we going on the cruise? why aren't we going on the cruise now? and so on and so forth....

yep i still have it.

injector part number 0L31(nissan symbol)8X21N they are out of my rb20 so you know exactly what you are getting

I just found an RB20 actuator here too

you are going to lean out with that fuel pump its for a 1.8 lt engine running 8psi. you have a 2 lt engine running 11 psi you are asking for trouble dude!!! replace it before your engine goes bang!!!

sonuds ok but you are in wa!!! postage would be like $10 and i would want $15 for it so you could prob buy one locally for that much and i would rather sell it to whoever buys the compressor as they will prob need a new gasket too. but if after a day or so no one wants all the bits together its all yours i will pm you in a couple o days cheers!

Solanoid sold!!! cheers mate i will send you a PM

cool pm checked... still for sale boost controller $20 turbo bits $100 intercooler $50 injectors $50 cheers!!!!

inner city glebe you can come anytime you need it

hey guys this stuff has been sitting hesr since i sold my car and i dont need it anymore. RB20DET Actuator. provides more boost than the rb25 actuator. $30 Cefiro intercooler standard. good condition, once again came off when i upgraded the cooler. $50 cheap boost controller bleed valve $20 used for a week or so. 6 Injectors from seres 2 rb20det. came outof my car when i upgraded the injectors they work fine just need new pintle caps. 270CC. about 72,000 ks on em. $50 RB20 AFM mesh removed only removed as i upgraded to a Z32$50 1. Series 2 rb25 turbo compressor cover and compressor wheel. 2. TO4E V trim wheel i bought brand new to fit to an rb20/25 turb 3. metal exhaust gasket for rb20, 25 turbo dump 4. Silicon turbo hose 3" inches $100 for all the turbo bits!!! 1, take off your rb turbo and take your turbo, this compressor wheel and housing to a turbo place and say "machine this wheel and housing to fit this turbo. GO HERE FOR TURBO INFORMATION all prices are negotiable!!! and can be picked up from inner west sydney, or i will post to you

hey guys this stuff has been sitting hesr since i sold my car and i dont need it anymore. Injectors from seres 2 rb20det. came outof my car when i upgraded the injectors they work fine just need new pintle caps. 270CC. about 72,000 ks on em. $50 Cefiro intercooler standard. good condition, once again came off when i upgraded the cooler. $50 EBC solanoid, came with a GRID boost controller, controller long gone but this is a universal solanoid and supposed to be one of the best. MAC brand will hold up to 36PSI!!!! $50 RB20 AFM mesh removed $50 Series 2 rb25 turbo compressor cover and compressor wheel. you can bolt these to a stock rb20 turbo for more power!!! making is simular to rb25 turbo I also have a TO4E V trim wheel i bought brand new to fit to an rb20/25 turbo 1, take off your rb turbo and take your turbo, this compressor wheel and housing to a turbo place and say "machine theis wheel and housing to fit this turbo. put the turbo back on your car and presto!!! you have close to 250RWKW!!! $100 for all the turbo bits!!!! both compressor wheels and the compressor cover. I will also throw in 3" of silicon hose . should cost $200 to get it fitted to your turbs. cheap boost controller bleed valve $20 all prices are negotiable!!!

12 psi if you want your turbo to live 14psi if you are game dude do a search there must be 1,000 threads about this

dude you are a wierdo, just shutup or start a business. nobody loves you, we don't care for your mental diarrhea so dont spray it all over the forums. just register a business name and start trading or stop posting pointless garbage

Kursed if you get an rb25 hiflowed stage 1 from GCG you will get 205 give or take rwkw. things you will need for the conversion. 1, new oil return gasket. about $5 2, new copper washers that go around the banjo bolts X 4 about $5 3, should replace the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket, about $20 4, turbo to dump gasket, about $20 Thats it! all your existing pipework will fit, your oil and water lines will fit. and it will look COMPLETLY STANDARD! you wont even be able to tell if its a rb20 or rb25 snail. the turb its self should be around $1500 if you get your mechanic ferind to buy it at trade price. you really should get a bigger intercooler. talk to MYS013. and copy his intercooler pipes exactly. should cost prob $150? buy a hybrid copy from here for $200 buy hose clamps and silicon joiner hose $200 (suprisingly expensive) install bigger fuel pump $150? get toshi ro remap your ECU $200 Dyno tune time $100 All up you will be looking at $2500 ish. standard injectors will cope with about 210rwkw as will the air flow meter. bit that is pushing it. anything over that and you start to spend too much on the ole RB20. Cams, injectors, z32 air flow meter, power FC. all these things cost an extra $2700 and you will only get an extra 50kw for the money. so if you were to save all that cash (approx 5200) plus selling your rb20 for $1000 you got enough for a RB30det conversion nd close to 300RWKW if you follow sidneykids directions. can you say FAST PIMPMOBILE!!! aah i am getting carried away...

haha hey CC you posted at the exact same time as me!

yep exactly... its a bit at a time process. first you leave it completly open giving you normal boost level (opposite to other bleed valves) with normal bleed valves the more you open them the higher boost you get. take it for a spin, make sure no hoses have come loose and boost builds normally. raise boost by tightening the allen key down 1/4 turn, go for a drive. repeat untill you have reached your desired peak boost. once it is acheived tighten the locking nut in place so it stays at that boost level.

just gave the car a good hard test and i have been able to get the boost to hit 12psi at 2600rpm!!! and it stays there untill 6400rpm and then drops about 1psi close to redline. I have an auto and the car just feels so much better to drive. there is tons more torque down lower in the rev range maknig the car more enjoyable to drive. i cant belive its the same engine and turbo because it boosts so much faster. at 4.5 psi (stock boost for my car) without the controller boost starts to build at 2600 and full boost by 3100~3200. and the car feels very laggy. The car is a nissan gloria and is a cruiser designed for smooth power delivery. with the controller boost starts at 2200 and full boost (4.5 psi) by 2400. this means it is stoping wastegate creep very well. it also means my stock actuator sucks!!! so not only can you use it to deliver more boost you can also use it to deliver boost much faster. Its funny how sometimes the simplest thing gives an excellent result. i thought i would give this a try and if it was crappy i was going to build the jaycar boost controller but for 20min install and $22.50 i got a result i am very happy with! I would say i just got the cheapest power gain ever prob about $1 per kilowatt!!!

here is a linky clicky clicky

Ok I posted a thread here about one of these but no one had tried one so i bought one to see how it goes. I have previously tried 3 boost controllers and this is equally as cood as the Electronic boost controller i had. Greddy cabin pnumatic bleed valve. spiked like shite and wasnt too good. Atomic GFB bleed valve. was a little better but still spiked. GRID single stage electronic boost controller. it was very good and did not spike and it was very accurate. The one i just bought is a mechanical/pnumatic controller and is well made. i drew a little paint sketch to show how it works It builds boost INSTANTLY because the ball does not let any pressure through preventing wastegate creep. Then when it reaches the desired boost level it opens and holds the boost within 1 psi of the set level. I set it to 12 psi and it does not spike at all! but it does bleed off 1 psi at very high rpm. The car is now super responsive because it gets to 12 psi alot quicker and holds there. I bought it of ebay and i suspect the guy who sells them builds them but they are very well made and work incredibly well Just thought i would post my results for those who are looking for a boost controller. Sometimes car accessories are really cheap on seasonal Big W Catalogue. UPDATE... this is for the 100's of people wanting to know how to install one of these buggars... Check (if you live in usa): Kroger Weekly Ad, or Myer catalogue. R33 INSTALLATION DIAGRAM

you need a wasted spark setup! there is a guy selling a module with 3 coils in it suited to skylines in a wasted spark setup. aparently this helps for 2 reasons 1. the coil is able to charge/discharge quicker than anything else not causing resistance while being used in rotational idle. 2. the coils are mounted on the firewall away from all the heat of the engine. you then use leads to the plugs. I havent seen these personally but have read a lot of good things about them. go here skylines downunder http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...ht=wasted+spark

Try the one you have ATM it shouldnt be throttling/choking the engine. my freinds car just dyno'd 394rwkw with a 3" exhaust its a rb30det with a big single KKK turbo. Then he took off the cat and put a straight thru pipe and dynoed 412rwkw! you cat might hold you back but the exhaust will prob be fine for your application

I did the came to my ceff put a rb25 turbo with bigger compressor wheel and i got 204rwkw? from memory and it felt pretty damn fast. go the GCG!

I am looking for some workspace in Canberra and have no idea how to find it. I need it to work on a project car I will be starting in early 2006 and all I need is enough space to store/work on a car. A garage would be perfect. And access to power. The possible use of an air compressor and welding equipment is also preferred. Ideally it would be in the Weston/Woden area. Does anyone have a space they would like to rent out for about 3 months? I would only need to use it on the weekends and possibly one day a week. But would need to store the car there while its being built. Any Ideas as to where I should look for a place such as this and how much I would be likely to pay for it? Cheers!