CEF11E

PLEASE NOTE!!!!!! this is a plain bearing centre. it is off the earlier VG30det turbo engines.

I just had a minor bingle and need to pay for it. and ther are already 2 other turbos lying around the house so this has got to go.... Turbo for sale. from a Nissan Leapord VG30DET. The Exhaust housing and Actuator have been painted black. There is No oil in the compressor outlet or the exhaust housing and the turbo is extremly clean. There is less than 1mm shaftplay and the shaft spins very freely. The guy I bought it off never boosted it. he had it on his import for a month and only took it off to upgrade to a to4. the car it came off had 62,000ks. I bought it from the forums for $400 and have never fitted it to my car. Sad All I want for it is $250... firm... The covers have the following markings compressor: 45V2 Turbine: D45V I also have a rooted unknown turbo for sale that looks like it might be a VG20det turbo. it is plain bearing and i suspect it has a gone oil seal and i want $100 for it you can call me on: 0425 360 355. Cheers:)

I know I am a techie It was placed out of the thermal stream of the pod about 5cm away

yes but the RB20 and RB25 compressor housings are going to perform differently. so if you use an RB20 turbo instead of an rb25 to start with you will have boost earlier but peak earlier...

ooh... and even then your diff ratios will be out...

As long as you can get an an auto for 3G less you will be infront. A gearbox, pedal box, and slave cylender + labour will cost you $2500. all you have to do is find a place that will do the conversion for less than a grand. Also don't forget the cost of a goot clutch and flywheel...

check the knock readings on the pfc. did it ping as soon as you got into 2nd? if so your map might be a bit lean going into hard gear changes when you stamp on the throttle changes for a split second. If this is the case a bit more fuel will help at that particular address. hope this helps

Geez! talk about digging up an old thread... Anyway I thought I would make an airbox for my car. Materials: 500 x 300 LDPE (low density poly ethelene) sheet 500 x 600 open cell 1cm thick foam 500 x 500 perspex sheet 1.5 metre rubber edging Some contact adheasive Home made bracket 4 self tapping screws small nut and bolt Method: I made a template out of cardboard the size of the box so it would fit between the strut tower and radiator support and cut a hole in the right place for the AFM adapter to fit through. This took a few goes to get it right and there were little gaps where air could get thru but it was just a template and i was going to seal these holes with foam anyway. Once I was happy with the result I made a copy of the template out of plastic. I then covered the plastic with foam on both sides leaving an extra 1cm of foam all around the edges to seal all the little gaps. I used contact adheasive to glue the 2 togeather. I then put the partition in place in the engine bay and attached the air filter to the AFM adapter. See Below... As you can see I get a lot of airflow around and under the headlight to feed the box. Enough to fit my whole hand thru. I then made a template for the cover, and once I was happy with it I copied in in perspex. Once it was in place I could see where the mounting holes had to go and drilled holes to suit. I also had to make a bracket on the rounded side to seal between the perspex and the foam. Once that was done I put a rubber trim around the perspex to keep it neat and screwed it togeather. The foam is excellent as it seals perfectly and acts as an insulator I measused the temps before and after using a jaycar indoor/outdoor temp probe. Before Ambient outside temp: 26deg Temprature of probe stuck to filter: 51deg After Ambient outside temp: 24deg Temprature of probe stuck to filter in airbox: 25deg and the car is much quicker on a hot day than before. Even sitting at the lights it dosent suffer heat soak like before. Hope this guide is useful to those wanting to make up an air box. The whole thing cost me less than $40 to make

Yeah the SAFC/remap is not essential you will be able to drive it with no problems. The intercooler will make no difference to the ECU whatsoever. The turbo may cause it to hit fuelcut. If you are going to put it on the dyno, I would suggest getting an SAFC secondhand from the forums. even if its one of the old safc 1s it will still do the job and i have seen them for $100 from time to time. plus with the safc you will be around the 170~180rwkw and you will be using heaps less fuel and more pawah everywhere

congradulations and celebrations! thats a fantastic time. How was the gearbox with the manualization? getting mine manualized and valve body modded soon. Do you feel rewardrd for all your hard work yet? Also do you have a cage in your car? ANDRA will be causing you hasstles soon

I am also trying to get the exhaust housing off a turbo to no avail. You need to take out all the bolts and lubricate between the CHRA and housing using penetrating lubricant. WD40 or CRC. leave it to soak for an hour and tap all sides of the housing closest to the CHRA using a rubber mallett. I have no idea if this is the best way. I got the instructions of a cummins diesel website. It has'nt worked for me tho, and i am worried if i use excessive force i will damage the turbo.

I have used the PLMS consult cable with datascan and found it to be very useful, Untill I tried to use it on a cefiro. and being pre 1989 the plug was different and i could not use it. Does anyone know of a conbroad minded person cable that will work with Cefiro's, Glorias, cedrics, cimas, leapords ect ect. My knowlege in this area is very limited so any help would be greatly appreciated.

You will have an easier time putting a VQ30det in an R32 as the VQ is a tiny block. but the same size capacity. they are also very wel priced and newer clicky clicky here vor vq info

I will take the turbo I have sent u an email cheerrs!!

Its a bit hard to know exactly what you are looking at on the car. Things you can look at Compressor housing. Take off the pipe from the AFM to the turbo and look for the numbers on the compressor housing. r33 is usually 45V2. Try to measure the inlet size of the snout. A high flow compressor cover will be wider than the snout of a standard housing. Try to move the shaft of the turbo back and forth and in and out. it should have very little movement 1mm or less. have a good look at the CHRA and the size of it. (you can compare sizes of other CHRAs on the net to confirm wether yours is BB or PB. Try to identify what the markings on your turbile housing are. OP6, 45V ect. This will tell you what sort of turbo it was before the highflow. also if you take off the dump pipe and get under the car you will be able to loog at the exhaust wheel. put a magnet next to it and see if it is metallic or ceramic. do a search on SAU with all the numbers and measurements you have to confirm exactly what you have. hope this helps. really the only way to know is to pull the turbo off, however if it is working perfectly you could wind the boost up slowly and see what the performance is like. if you get to 14psi and you have a max power of 190rwkw, its a standard turbo.

paid $85 for one at sss 3 weeks ago. you are dreaming mate...

We don't have a big enough market to start local production on any sort of cost effective scale for the V8, we would need to be exporting more than we would use locally. We would be getting a daewoo engineered V8 imported, LMAO...

ohhh. I thought you had a hot babe lined up

Just for some feedback, I have the same subs in my car and they do pump very hard... they can handle quite a lot of power and they are solid performers.

I have those same rims on my Gloria!... Whenever people guess what my car is they allways say its a Laurel... I would be very happy if it was a Laurel :0

[qoute] Its just as dodgy as bleed valve boost control. Plenty of people use that without concern. Both too dodgy in my opinion, but those using bleed valves for boost or fuel cut defender are just as bad. He is loosing flow of electricity instead of air. [qoute] haha! that means I am a bad man... I have a turbotech bleed valve, I am a very bad man...

yeah thats what i was thinking about a pot. as soon as you bump it you lean out. CA's have feelings too! just because they are a bit "special"!!! there seems to be no love for the CA anymore:(

why is it stupid if done monitoring the AFR's? it is doing the exact same thing as a safc except right accross the rev range. and providing you don't go too lean what the hell is wrong with it? I think in the right application it is fine.

I was at the place where i get my car scerviced today and there was a kid there with his silvia on the dyno. I got to talking to him as he was tuning his car and i was curious as to what he was doing. He was doing a power run, looking at the AFR's and then putting a resistor between the AFM and the ECU!!!! he would do another power run and check the AFR's. I informed him this would lean out the AFR's right accross the range and he looked at me like i was an idiot!! and said to me Look at the afr's man, its rich right accross the range, sure enough he was right!!! He was upping the resistance value each run by 0.02 of a watt. I saw the figures, before and after, and he went from 152rwkw to 164rwkw and his afrs were still below 12:1 He said by doing this he had illiminated boost cut, advanced the timing, and was using less fuel. Not bad for 6cents for the resistor...

and no there will be no hugs in it for you, That is what your girlfreind is for...