GTRsean

Helps with a more direct pedal feel, easier to bleed. Put one on my 32 and 34GTR. I used a braided line from HPI, but there are other brands like nismo or similar.

Page 4 illustration 3 of the os giken link is a step that tends to get missed by those not in the know. I had both the twin and triple plate os clutch kits in my 32 that needed the input shaft snout to be cut 4mm as well. Same with mate's os twin in a 300ZX box. Not trimming the snout will cause the snout to contact the pressure plate fingers causing the clutch to half disengage, grind the snout to a pulp of aluminum shite, and make the throwout bearing and carrier unable to fully disengage clutch, as it will hit the damaged part of the snout that is now mushroomed.... I've been down this road.... Also another couple of things that may break are the pivot ball, and clutch fork from excessive force from trying to get the carrier past the mushroomed/ground up snout.

4" with big ass straight through mufflers to keep the noise down if street car....

Has been done, but you have to do some welding up of the water passages, machining and redrilling. Just get a 25, 26 or RB30 head

Bottom end is done. Measured all the parts up and fitted bearings, rings, stretch torqued the rod bolts. Just needs some paint Nice to build it up in a workshop for a change and not a carport back shed!!

Pulled front diff apart to fit the 3.5:1 to the big sump. Replaced bearings and seals, so all fresh. Block is ready to be sprayed and assembled.

I was pulling front diffs apart today... Bottom end is also ready for assembly.

Few things to do my ass. Lol. I was at unigroup and saw what you brought there!!!! PS: your front cam cover looks great!!

The part number is for the silvia style turbo.... It won't bolt up to GTR's. Plenty of topics on what a GT2860 -7, -9 and -5's can do, depending on your goal. Cheers.

Sold.

An anime from over 10 years ago.....oh well better late then never eh?!

Thanks for the offer! Items sourced, thank you.

Someone tried to copy inital D. Happened in one of the episodes!!

intercooler piping popped??

It's a 'cool' daily! So another engine I will be doing. It will have the following: .5mm over pistons spool h beam rods 4K block decked, bored and honed crank balanced flywheel lightened sump modified oil pump shimmed 3K recoed head with 4K style stem seals some sort of solid regrind cam with 260-270deg and .400" lift port match and cleanup. rollmaster double row timing chain 4-2-1 headers redline dual side draft carby setup electronic dizzy I think that is it....

Removed the cylinder head from the block. Piston tops are great, and bores are pretty good. Head is original, and still has the jap sticker on the underside, so not shaved down yet. Pulled cams out and bagged the buckets and shims, then got to work cleaning all the carbon crap out of the head. Used de greaser in a can and a nylon brush, then water, then some water dispersant/corrosion inhibitor. Came up pretty clean. Valves and valve springs are next to be removed, then some cleaning up of the ports and combustion chambers. Then it just needs new stem seals, and new springs, retainers and some new shims to get valve clearances spot on again!

Nope, pull out the 1.5L (5K), time to put in a built and worked 1.3L (4K)!!!

If your car has a good chassis, jacking up one side should lift both front and rear wheels on that side at the same time!!!

inbox eh?!? So email based inbox there, old school

It is recommended that if you have to use the spare, put it on the front. Less chance of damaging driveline due to the front diff being an open differential, so wheels can freely spin at different speeds. If you put it on the back, you'll probably burn out the plates in the limited slip diff...

Guess it's worth the pain then, she ain't stock Pitty time can't be bought, so much stuff to do!!!

Thanks Jacob! Original boot was starting to rust in a couple of spots, so I thought I'd get a replacement, and paint it. Got it from Unique autosports, dunno the brand. Saves about 6kg or so (didn't bother weighing), pity it's the wrong end of the car... Fitment was good, only where it meets with the rear bar, is where it's a little close to the bumper. Just have to mount spoiler, rubber stops and brake light and it's done. Hi Jangles, read your posts in the GTX thread. Oh well, it's hopefully sorted now once the turbos come in. I now have 2 turbine rear ends that are good for paper weights now!! I also have to have this done by nats, but it's not looking good! I'm still waiting for my machined block to be finished, and right now, I'm stripping down the old engine to swap over the parts. So much stuff to do! Checked valve clearances today, before I remove the cylinder head. Intake was .019 thou, and exhaust was .017 thou.... That explains the rattle noise on start up before oil pressure gets to the head!! Clearances are way too big, and so I lose valve lift. Time to get new shims once I micro up the old shims. Also found on removal of the intake manifold and throttle bodies, #1 cylinder had a cracked gasket, and evidence of leakage, so a boost leak. The stock intake gaskets are crap, as they age they get hard and brittle, as others know and have found out. I always fit metal intake gaskets, HKS, nitto, Tomei etc, and spray hylomar on them too. No leaks, especially once you pump some boost down it's throat!!!

+2

How many extra bloody lines do you need!?! I just spent some time this arvo ripping all the crap off the intake side of my 26. So much (crap) stuff... Be nice if it was less packed!

Stubby ratchet ringie set from kingchrome. Love em!!! Gets it every time and great for exhaust manifold nuts too.