negative cubes...our first motor with n1 pump had back blocked off and 1 X 1.5mm up front with no ticking initially then we found out after a few races two of the lifters were shagged and constantly ticking we replaced them with some second handies out of a spare head and its been good ever since. However we now run two 1mm restrictors....luckily enough it doesnt bother a dry sump system.
normally aftermarket exhaust will all follow the same shape and line as the std exhaust. They need to pick up all the same support points and hangers. Do the 3"all the way.
I got a price from KCB/GSB Chemical Co. As a cleaning solvent price for 205l is $434.00, for use in a combustion driven vehicle, you are required to pay the fuel excise tax which raises the price is $565.00.
I think i need some parts cleaner!
I wouldnt think it does as toluene has a RON rating of something like 120...mixed with normal fuel it can only increase the octane rating...or so you would think.
spotted a silver r33 gtr i think...had sau stickers on the rear quarters. GAZ 99. I was bringing the race car back from mercury after some post race checking. That was from newmarket to everton park along south pine rd.
any oil in the radiator....or bubbles come out when you take the cap off whilst running??
Water normally cools the engine better then a water/glycol mix. But straight water obviously boils at 100 and freezes at 0(not that it applies to us) and it rusts all things of a ferrous nature. But alot of people run straight water...with a light mix glycol.
Water/glycol/water wetter
no lifter noise in either of our 25/30's
just the few lifters which were rooted and we replaced with some others from a spare head...everything come good.
I thought when i measured the hole after i drilled the last block...the vernier depth gauge told me something like 12mm....maybe im drilling in the wrong spot haha
No that wasnt to the water jacket...it was before i broke through...
you need new lifters then mate.
Or find another second hand set to replace them that arent stuffed..
Also i think this was explained in the oil control thread which is somewhere around.
just drill and tap it scooby and then use some thread sealant on the stuf. Weve done that to two weve done so far with no issues. However i reckon the hole needs to be a little to the left...maybe a few mm cause the timing belt was a bitch to get on...it was pretty tight...unless the drill wandered abit or it wasnt sharpened evenly and it moved the hole a little to the right. Thats my thought on making the cam belt easier to put on that way, there is enough adjustment in that tensioner to take up any difference in slack.
we made up all our teflon lines ourselves with just the olive and compression fitting....works perfectly. But enzed are exxy as.
Best way ive found to cut the line is with a 1mm cut off wheel on your grinder...if you want you can tape up the point your cutting, otherwise just cut without and still no drama. The blade is so thin it cuts it nice and clean with no major spurring or mess
its going to get hammered with crap, it was bad enough at std height....just stay on the track gary and it might keep that nice black paint job.....when the old man goes off every once in a while (when we had the high energy sump/and first proto anti-roll bar) it used to take a beating from the gravel traps...haha....good thing i dont spin off.............much:)