Ben101

Try getting a long screwdriver and place it on certin areas like the back of the alternator and listen its old school but works thats how i found the noise on mine bearings in the back of alternator hope it helps.

Has anyone else come across this problem r32 gtst rb20det she runs fine around town stop start situation but take it on a drive on the hwy for 30 min or so and she wont rev passed 5000 rpm just pops and farts when flat to the floor or easing on the gas, I just had it dynoed and they said it was fine couldnt find the problem made 140kw with catback, air filter, walbro pump and splitfire coils with a gap of 0.8 could it be a air leak? or fuel related? any help appreciated i have also tried swapping afm no difference?

give just jap a call they should be able to help you out

Cheers guys I'll look into the gtr thread Hey craved you still got your ninja, back in 2005 I had problems with mine and you were giving me some suggestion?

Hey pplz, My r32 gts-t doesn't always seem start without me having to give it some gas as it stands its stock apart from a cat back and a walbro fuel pump i've done some searching on the forum, and everything I read seams to point to the air flow meter the starting problem, the car been jerky when you lift off then go to accelerate again, would the Z32 upgrade be a wise move as for furture mods, am I to belive that the stock computer will handle it no worries? Cheers

The crank pulley is on there tight but pently of wd40 and pry bars it does come off, and like yogi000 said replace all seals and pullys along with the new belt

A friday night nasho run sounds good im in

Its a good chance your head gasket is leaking were you told by the previous owner that copper head gaskets need to be re-torqued after so many kms the re-builder would have mentioned this when he got the re-built engine i would look into that first as copper gasket are a pain in the arse you should look into getting a normal mono-torque gasket from Nissan or ACL and do a compression test

I hooked up a catch can to the pcv side and plumbed it back in then put a small k&n filter on the rocker side to vent straight to atmo but found that it sucked air in, anyone had this happen to them, thinking it may be the pcv being plumbed back into the system any thoughts

notgts were abouts are you in australia and any pics

Boosted zed with the manifolds are you polishing the inside of the chamber and trumpets? As ive been taught that you need a rough surface to help atomization of fuel and air mixture! If there polished to much it wont work to its full capabiltiles!!

To tell if its worn rings smoke will appear through out the driving range and idle if its valve stem seals you will only blow smoke under vacuum eg giving the car some but you have good compersion it sounds like the fuel economy is way to rich the ecu needs to be re tuned to much fuel going in can wash the bores down which then washes the oil away and will wreck your hone pattern on the bores which will lead to more problems down the road

Are you using more fuel? If you are it could be your oxygen sensor gone which puts more fuel in as it thinks the engine is running lean this then washes the oil off the bore which gives you blow by as theres no sealing effect from the oil

Well from the sound file its the lifters for sure have you done an oil change with fresh oil because it sounds like there not pumping up and been an import it may have been run with low oil and its effected the lifters i would pay to have them tested to see if they pump up and can hold pressure

Have you checked your plugs no:3 could have a build up on it? Is no:3 getting spark?? You could try blocking the return line on your fuel system clamp gentle with long nose this will build up the pressure in the fuel system and if its a blockled injector it should put enough pressure behide to get some fuel through if that it get them all cleaned

Do you how many kms are on the motor? have you left the oil cooler on its mount or put on a relocation kit? the lifters can be checked and re-built by a engine recondition place if they cant they should know of someone because thats were they would be getting there lifters from when they do a motor!

Steve the part numbers are PBT15 $40.00 and 56TB2801B01 $64.00 and the brand is called PART TECH if you take the numbers to a bearing place like CBC bearings etc.. they should be able to match them up the place i got them from is Mekong Spare Parts 9724 0691 if you any problems let me know

Yer i was afraid of that it looks like a non repalceable part i think ill keep my eye on it and when it gets bad then change it cheers

Has any one come across the problem when dumping the water out of the system on the rb25 motors that the top hose goes into the manifold and were the hose clamps onto that section seems to be corroded Does any one know if it can be replaced nissan said i need a new mainfold and spare parts stores never heard of it It could be a do it yourself job? cheers

can you get a strut brace for the rear of the r33 i cant seem to find any?

Have done the job in about 5 hrs with a mate (including farting about) the timing belt got from nissan the idler and tensioner bearing after market (got sell a kidney if you want nissan items) the cam and crank seals are all the same can get them from ACL changed water pump while was there saves headache later on careful pulling of the balancer it will be tight but does come off make sure to mark the sensor on the cam and when you take the front part of the vvt unit off on the inlet some oil will come out and its spring loaded dont loose the bolts

Engine flush is known to dis-lodge any thing thats in your engine and contains some hard core solvents when flushed can cause metal shavings to get stuck in bearings or move some sludge thats blocking a small crack id stay clear of that if you want to flush just repeat the steps heat up/dump oil/refill/run a bit/dump again/ refill its the best system

any one know were you can get clear side indicator lens for a r33 seen them on another r33 and looked tops

ive found that after i installed an after market gauge and keeped the stock sender in that the stock units have to be faulty because the readings are to different doesn't matter what oil or filter has been used and ive only got 90000kms on the clock if your concerned about your pressure install an after market gauge and keep the stock unit in so you dont get the warning light always coming on

i got the same problem when shifting in the higher rev range change oil to redline shock proof syn didn't make much of a difference but ive been told clutch adjustment could get rid of the problem sounds easier than getting the box rebuilt any one know of a gear box place thats good just in case