predator

I just started having this problem! it was working fine the other week. Man this board has more funny bits than a hermaphrodite! Try to login to upload some new photos and will no longer let me in with my SAU standard username/password. Even just changed my password and logged back in using it. Still same problem

most definitely..

Imagine if they changed the roads every 6 months so we had to get a car that was best suited for them? Imagine how difficult that would be!

Well the proof is when you see it at a proper drag event. Sure, drag combat wasn't the best day for dragging, but all "those" sorts of cars were getting 14's or 15 sec 1/4. Now I'm not sure how much they've spent on their cars, but if its not doing 12seconds and can beat a large number of cars on the street then its a bit of a waste if you ask me to go to all the effort... The only ones getting the decent times on the day were those smaller cars with the SR20DET conversions. The smart ones

Want a guide? this is for 33. 1. Remove all hoses to intake pipe (circled in yellow). Generally use pliers to pull together the clips, and pull the hoses with some force to pop them off. Use pliers on the big bastard clip (circled in red) and biggest hose pipe to squeeze together then back up the hose. Then should be easy to pull the hose off 2. Use socket and screwdrivers to undo metal hose clamps holding the rubber joiners (circled in purple/pink) to the intake pipe - that smaller metal pipe that goes into your intake plenum (labelled). 3. Remove two bolts holding intake to engine (circled in aqua/light blue) using either philips head screw-driver or correct sized socket (easier) 4. May require a bit of a "wiggle" to lever out. Check to see if any hoses are still attached if it refuses to come out and remove these. 5. Unclip 2x plugs to ignition block (r33 series1 .. not on series2) - I've circled them in orange. . Thats the thing on stilts at the back of the plastic spark plug cover (the thing that says nissan 2500). 6. Use hex tools to remove the screws to the plastic cover (these are circled in green) once the intake pipe has been removed. Try Dick Smiths to buy a kit with all funny little screw things you might find on any car or electronic device. 7. Loosen screws for cam breather hose (circled in blue). Remove cam breather hose. 8. Slide the plastic cover out. 9. Use 9mm socket to remove 2x bolts for each ignition coil (those plastic blobby things with clips going to them). They're on diagonal corners to each other. 10. Use some nice force to pull coil directly upwards. Ignition coil should go "pop". Should see ass of spark plug 11. Go to repco/bunnings/etc and get long socket that can go over stuff like spark plugs.. long nuts, etc. Plugs are 16mm threads and require a 16mm socket. You can generally buy a "spark plug socket kit" for $10 from repco which has all the spark plug sockets all you'd encounter on any car out there. 12. Buy a socket extender.. Allows you to attach the socket to a "stick" that goes down into long holes with your wratchet. 13. use extender plus long socket of the correct size to unscrew the plug. Look at plug to see condition: white = cylinder is running lean (too much air).. not good.. tell tuner this to adjust your mixtures. dead black = cylinder is running possibly too rich (too much fuel).. not good..means unclean spark if too dirty. Called "fouling". Black is better than white though, generally your motor will cope with a rich mixture, rather than lean. lightish grey - quite nice. Engine is probably well within good running range. Plugs may not need replacing unless they look obviously old/ratty. 14. Go to Repco.. Ask for 6x new spark plugs (search maintenance for which ones you want.. 50 threads on this). 15. Gap plug to correct length.. use feeler guage ($5 from bunnings, repco, etc) to insert the correct distance "fingers" underneath to equal desired gap (0.8mm is good). They are basically just little metal measures that count out millimeters to go under stuff. Use hammer to ever so slightly tap the end of the plug down until the end sits its flat on the feeler guage. This is now correctly gapped and ready to go in. 16. Screw plug back in, making sure not excessive force, but they must be tight and well in. 17. Move to next plug, etc. 18. Put everything back, basically reverse of the above. tHere, 2 minute guide. p.s. isn't there a guide up already?

Yeah, know the feeling. These businesses don't know that word of mouth can spread like wildfire and their business reputation can be destroyed in a matter of hours with the Internet. Its not like the old days, most can't get away with shoddy service that much anymore. If you take something in they say "end of today" then that means END OF TODAY, not this time next week... ****ers.. Anyhow - TOP WORK! there is MEANT to be a FAQ section for very useful stuff.. but hardly anything gets moved into it.. i still have about 2 threads related to removing your entire dash, replacing a heater core and everything else.. could maybe useful to somebody! is it in the FAQ section .. noooo /rant off

Well the only way we're really going to know whether the doubters are true or not is in about 5 months when they start coming in. Many who take the risk are going to be burnt. Some will get lucky and get a bargain underpriced compared to the local prices. Others won't, as I believe somebody who was already recently received there 32 who posted on here as illustrated. The signs weren't good soon as he rolled it off the ship

Don't forget the j-jetro versions are now available.. which allow you to go MAP instead if you want

I think most skylines that have been parked in public have been badged one time or another (me included). Would be worse for GTR owners I'd imagine.

*phew* lost this thread for a moment.. thought it might have been deleted yeah, my computer is holding up.. my car too even better. Computers are cheap these days fortunately, and power supplies, etc can be replaced for a few bucks. Saturday i did 200km in 41 degree or so heat.. giving it quite a bit of stick with darrin and strutto on the highways. Still holds a bit of power. Go the intercooler!

I enjoyed the day.. few show cars to look at, some nice girls to look at, and most things - just the heat was the killer. The drag racing itself was pretty poxy, but it was 41 ****ing degrees.. who would bother? The point of drag racing is to get a good time and have fun, if you're not getting either of them, you're not going to run. Sitting in that heat, with a helmet and everything else, you'd have to be damn keen. So good props to those that did get out there! Just bad timing, not much anybody can do about it. anyhow, just got back b4 from my weekend.. will post my full thoughts and shots soon..

350Z has some ripped aftermarket kits out from HKS, Trust, etc .. bolt on and sideways away. Apparently the VQ35DE in them is one of Nissans strongest engines and responds very nicely to turbo'ing. For my "dream" car its either a R34 GTR or the 350z i think actually (with turbo kit of course) If you want quick, the TT Supra is basically the quickest RWD japanese car stock out there.. interior is not pretty.. seats are nice, but otherwise blurk.. looks 80's.

what u went to milton maccas? you bitches.. i could'a been there in 10 mins oh well.. have to save the funds.

i think the GTR may be lacking in power to carry a scu-do.. sorry mate, but you're going to have to do without or look for a more powerful car

Yeah, seems stupid to be honest. There will be dramas somewhere. But guess you can't just "postpone" a large event like that for those coming from all around QLD and possibly interstate. blk: by that theory get there early in the morning later in the day everybody could have given up and gone home. But no idea !

stop being a sook! yeah, heaps of 33 around.. Spooks_Skyline : not sure whether I have seen your car around, but I don't get out much at the moment because i'm broke - if I see you i'll wave

Who is still coming to meet at Coomera tomorrow b4 heading off? I am still up for it.. but the heat looks like it could put a huge damper over the whole thing if its the forecasted 41 degree heat ends up being a reality!! I know i'd never drag my car in that heat. If the car turnout is going to be low due to the heat don't want it be a whole waste of time and trip. It seems quite likely ?? Can just save the money and spend the time in my mates pool instead

Yeah, sucks doesnt it! heat isnt too bad.. i mean it got up to 40's in melb often, but it was a dry heat. 35 and 90% humidity just sucks the energy right out of you!

Then again he could go drifting on a track, enjoy hassle free driving from the police, and not be defected every 5 minutes. There is also drag combat tomorrow down at QLD motorway, but looks like its gonna be bit too hot for the turbo guys. ... oh there is a good go-kart track up Sunshine Coast way.. thats cool. and oh yeah, forgot: can he go get me some fish & chips for lunch, i'm kind of getting hungry here I'll pay him a couple of peanuts for delivering to west end.

just go clubbing in the Gold Coast.. chase the wildlife.. its all fun.

I don't quite see how hard it is to shift manual.. shifting at the peak of 6500rpm isn't that hard really. Just keep an eye on the tacho (which will give you speed also). It pretty much "tells" you when to shift by screaming at you like a little bitch. What 09ONE_32 says is true also, through careful gearing you can eliminate many of these problems and "always" stay in that sweet 4-6500 zone, except maybe on the launch. An auto makes sense if you are going in a straight line (e.g. dragging), but for most other circumstances I'd much rather have a manual. When you're going up a mountain run, keeping it in that sweet spot of boost the whole way, its pretty hard not too keep the smile off your face I tell you. Just hosing it through that corner, dropping down to get that perfect 4000rpm zone, giving it maybe a bit of slide and shooting out the corner at a rocket pace.. totally in control the whole time... boy, that is just one thing that is so great about the skyline. Hell I still get goosebumps over compression lockups! can't do *that* in an auto! I'd say you'd miss mych of that experience in a skyline auto, even though I'll admit I've never driven a 33 auto (but plenty of other autos) But still, if you want a skyline, maybe drive it daily, and the different between an auto and manual means getting a skyline and not, then go the auto.

Get the half cut, sell the box for $1000 or so, and hopefully the halfcut comes with a maybe a couple of panels, dash, etc that you can maybe get a few extra $ for. Then put a bit of money into the RB25DET if you can. If you put the extra you saved on the rebuild into achieving a safe 240rwkw with a new turbo, AFM, ECU, etc and enjoy the extra torque you get and just keep the RB25DET with stock internals. If you can find a new stagea and therefore NEO version even better! Hopefully the stagea you got it from is a bit of a family car and the engine hasn't had a life that has been too traumatic.

hehe, maybe. You can easily just write one word per post. Thats not really a challenge anymore. I dunno, I think its good to have something - encourages a more friendly atmosphere around here.. people can find out what people are like and not like.. vent pointless thoughts.. like the mosquito that I just squashed, and yet somehow it managed to crawl across the desk(??)

darrinspenser: yup, this is true I did this I think at the time so that I could position it right down in the tank a bit further than stock as I didn't think it would hurt. The only time I do have any form of surging problem I think the only time this has ever happened when the tank has been nigh on empty, going around a corner hard, etc. You'd probably get that with the stock pump anyhow. with my 910, I left the metal tube in place (as you can see its almost a bit of a brace up the top there), but its not needed. You'd probably definitely have to remove it for a large pump, 044 or similar. When I think about, with it fitting back in, I think I recall bending the bracket out slightly a few degrees from where it slots in, and that is probably the real reason for the extra hose length ... to get the draw point in the right position again. I've made a quick diagram of it - so people can visualise what I mean.. lukits01: yup, I believe that is how its done, one pump lower in the tank feeds the other higher up in the tank. The greatest work the pump does in drawing it up out of the tank, so a secondary pump works outside onwards, working to pump it to your engine. I think that is the theory anyhow. You can also do parallel pump arrangements for different reasons. I'm not really an expert on that, so maybe somebody else can help there. Me either really, and I was really cautious the whole way through but i think in the end it is a relatively safe operation (fuel vapours need a good supply oxygen to ignite, and there is not much in the tank)

Fantastic.. if work and things is looking kind to me, hopefully I can make it down for that weekend also and can drop on by autosalon. Would love to check out that GTR!! seeing something like that is almost worth flying down for!