Fry_33

I went to Mick @ Micolour in Moorabbin. Have had a few things done there since. Great guy and does top work so I recommend him.

PM Sent

BUMP..

I saw SydneyKid suggested a Pipercross panel filter in an older thread. I ended up getting one. I can't remember exactly how much it was but it was quite reasonable. They are basically made up of three layers of foam which are different densitys. Coarse one is on the outer and it gets finer after that. They don't list a Nissan Skyline filter as such. From memory though my R33 GTST is the same as a Nissan X-Trail which is the same as VR/VS commodores too. I purchase mine from Revolution Racegear, think it was this one.. http://www.pipercross.net/panelfilters/product.asp?m1=31&m2=374&app=1658 Might also want to get the cleaning kit while you're at it.. C8999 Don't quote me on the part numbers. I used the K&N site to cross reference and find out which one it probably was. The paper element may have had more surface area but if it is bunched up more then it could effectively reduce the availble area for the air to pass through. Since the filter is a fixed size, you could get a huge piece of paper and fold it in the triangular pattern and jam it into the space, I don't think it would flow that well though. I'm assuming there would be an optimum surface area based on the flow rate of the filter material. A section of cotton may flow better than an equivalent paper section. What happens to the paper when it gets moist compared to what the cotton does? I agree that if you are changing over the paper element frequently then this must surely help. It's also a quick, easy and fairly cheap solution.

Has anyone seen this jack yet or got a price on one? http://www.spiequip.com/images/SPI%20TROLLEY%20JACK.htm

You could just get a metal cover or carbon fibre one made up for it. Maybe you could attach it to the standard one so it still clips on?

Chris you bastard, I was going to bed before I saw this, it's now an hour later.. I'm giving up on level 19 @ 198 deaths

Thanks man, yeah great amps. I just couldn't fit it into the car in the location I wanted so can't use this one unfortunately. Can supply the manual for it too if required.

Few pics of how they came up.. nothing flash but they look better than they did. Maybe a few more coats of clear could possibly help? Even a coat or two of wax to protect them even more. This is just how I hung them up. Was able to hold coat hanger while painting them and hung them up in between coats. Left arm and shoulder got a little sore after a while holding them up. If you have a place to hange them up and be ablt to paint them in that locatino then that would be best. I was able to tilt the caliper by touching the taped up bleed nipple on the rear.

Item 1: R33 GTST Manual Diff Price: $250 ono Location: SE Melb Contact: PM or post here Comments: I bought a second hand diff and had it shimmed up. I put that shimmed diff in my car and the one for sale has been in my car since new possibly. Diff has a little backlash in it but if you're going to swap centres then this maynot be an issue. Item 2: X-Force front/dump pipe Price: $100 ono Location: SE Melb Contact: PM or post here Comments: Had this on my car for about two years. Has been HPC coated, slightly faded near turbo due to heat but still seems fine. Entry/mouth has been welded and smoothed off. Pickup preferred for both items. Cheers

keep forgetting I've got this.. Bump

I can confirm that this system is being used in VIC. A guy I know had just lost his licence and drove down to the shops. Cop car was travelling in the opposite direction and the system alerted the driver that the car was regeistered to an unlicenced driver so they did a u-turn and pulled him over. Good system as far as I can tell as it will hopefully keep a lot of people off the road who don't deserve to be there.. huddles in corner and waits to be flamed.. If it keeps drunken, unlicenced and repeat offender drivers off the roads then it has to be a good thing.

The PFC Pro version has 'launch control'. It only works when your speed is 0kmph. You set the RPM that you want it to work at say 4000rpm. If you put your foot flat to the floor then it will sit a 4000rpm like a rev limiter. It just retards/cuts ignition and therefore the air-fuel mixture ends up igniting in the manifold/turbo which spins it up. I don't really use it as I don't want to kill my standard turbo.. yet. The Pro version also uses ignition cut at redline instead of fuel cut like standard ones.

I don't know if there is even a 3PK835R, I don't recall seeing it in the Racing catalogue eariler. Not all sizes are available in the Racing construction. You will need this regardless by the looks of things 1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK865 Fan & Alt. Then you will need this.. 1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 3PK835 PS - w/ AC (this single belt runs the PS AND the AC) or these.. 1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK945 PS - w/o AC (this belt runs just the PS) 1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK925 AC (this belt runs just the AC) If you have three belts on your car then I think you'll have to run with the belt list you cam up with in post #5. You should be able to read what's on your crrent belts and that will help you to decide which ones to use. If you can't see part of the belt then just turn the engine over slightly without starting it. You can't put a 4 ribbed belt (4PK) onto a 3 ribbed (3PK) pulley. I have an RB25DET so I can't just look at mine to help you cause they're different.

Basically if you have three belts on your car (ie. the AC has a seperate belt to the Power Steering Pump then the above belts are the ones you need. I just put R32, 1992 into the fields and it comes up with the following. This shows the different combinations possible. The belts you mentioned above are just the Racing construction versions of the last three (add an R to the part numbers below). The 4PK860R is 5mm shorter than the 4PK865 but it's fine. 1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 3PK835 PS - w/ AC 1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK865 Fan & Alt. 1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK945 PS - w/o AC 1989-93 2.0L 6 Cyl. Turbo (RB20DT) 4PK925 AC Good Luck

I bought a second set of calipers and had them rebuilt, car wasn't off the road that way. Last weekend I sanded back the NISSAN lettering to remove the texture with emery/ fine sand paper to make them smooth. I then cleaned them with thinners, being careful with the seals. I taped up the internals (slow painful job that - longest part of process) and hung them up using a coat hanger around the two bolts/pins for the pads. I painted them in gloss black VHT and then used more emery/fine sand paper to carefully expose the NISSAN lettering, nice and shiny. I then went straight over them in VHT clear coat a few times. If I get round to it I'll post up a photo or two. Hopefully that all sticks well and lasts. When I get around to swapping the calipers over I will clean the rotor centers and give them a quick paint too. Good thing is I don't have to do fronts and rears in the same day if I don't get around to it.

There is an online Gates catalogue that you can search by make and model. go to http://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/ then 'Auto Aftermarket' then On Line CATALOGUE. You should be able to find any of the belts to suit the model and engine combos available. The part numbers for Automotive Micro-V belts are pretty simple. a 4PK875 belt has 4 ribs, PK stands for automotive micro-V pitch, and 875 is the length in mm. If you are trying to match an existing belt and you can't get the exact same nbumber don't stress. You will generally have a bit of adjustment to play with so as long as the belt is within 5-10mm either side then you'll be fine.

Seat is genuine as far as I know purchased off of a reputable company here. I'm definitely not going to start bagging anyone out as they have been great about the situation so far. I was just trying to see if issues with this model of seat was common. Having an issue with the front part of the frame. This is just under daily driving situations. I did have R33 GTR seats in my R33 GTST but I thought Bride seats would be much better.. starting to question those thoughts though. It is a bit of an eye opener to realise how tough the standard seats are and the punishment they can withstand.

Has anyone had an issue with their Bride Seat? I am talking more of parts of the seat or frame failing? Bride Euro II seat in particular.

I had a cross-threaded spark plug in my old VK commodore. One of my work mates at that time was a mechanic and carefully used some thick grease on the tap and any swarf created was caught by the grease.. Well being realistic, the majority of it I guess, no way of really knowing though. TIt was all good after that. Just an alternative that may save you some time. Good Luck

I am fairly sure that the water pump is made to leak slightly when it is worn out as a sign to change it. It could be that. Check to see if it is wet underneath the water pump (make sure it's not too hot obviously). How many km's has your car done?

I never really get bothered by fog lights/driving lights. I find the lights of four wheel dirves worse due to their height, especially when behind me siting at the lights. I thought fog lights shouldn't really be pointing up. If you've ever been in thick fog and put your high beams on you realise they're useless and use your low beams. Fog lights usually light up the ground and to the sides more I thought. I use them sometimes as it lights up the area around the front and to the side of the car better. I can't believe this is still in the performance section.

Using just the deflection of the belt is not how you measure the tension of a belt. For example one person may use 10kg of force and another use 5kg of force. Tension is measured using a force and deflection. The manuals etc do not give a tension for the timing belt. It relies on the spring behing the tensioner pulley to apply the correct tension. Synchronous belts do stretch but not very much over their life. To check if it is the belt making the noise you can try the following. Remove the alternator belt and run the engine, if noise is still there remove the p/s belt and run the engine. You can also remove the top timing belt cover and replace the CAS using some washer to space it out (approx thickness of the cover). Taking extreme care not to drop anything into the timing belt area, run the engine.

Use some detailing clay. That is what is used to remove imperfections from your paint by a detailer. Usuaully once you have used detailing clay for your paint, after a while it appears too filed with dirt to use on your paint again. It is then that you can consider keeping that clay for your windows or even your rims. It is awesome stuff. There are some different grades of detailing clay, some are manufactured to be more aggressive to remove paint overspray. You can buy detailing clay from Repco and autobarn etc but for the more aggressive style clay you may have to get it from a detailer.

It will probably just come down to how it was installed as Justin has said. The installation of a timing belt is pretty basic but you just have to take your time and make sure it's done right. It basically consists of just removing everything until you can get to the belt. Take off the old one, replace idler and tensioner and put the new one on with all of the marks in the right place. You then rotate the belt around two or more times and while there is still some tension on the belt tighten the tensioner. Then put everything back together. This is a simplified way of how the manual says to do it. You need to rotate the belt around so that the teeth of the belt mesh into the sprockets otherwise you get the situation explained by Justin. Good Luck