Stixbnr32

Hey ya, Since my engine is now built i was thinking of upgrading my drivetrain. I can pickup a brand new Nismo Conversion kit of the R32 to the 6spd R34 Getrag. This kit includes 1) Getrag 6spd 2) Transfer case 3) Twin plate nismo super coppermix clutch 4) Front prop shaft 5) Cross member 6) Shift knob. I can get this for about $8000 USD and the thing I like is it will have 0 km's on them. What is everyones thoughts? Im thinking eventually I will need a new clutch (not required yet) and my transfer case is 25 years old and my gear box as well. So if I rebuild/strengthen these I am looking at not much more for the getrag. Also I have heard the 4.111 ratios of the r32 and the 6spd make for abit of fun?????

You can buy brand new Getrag/transfer case etc from nengun for $8.7k USD. Try getting a brand new Rb26dett for that price. In saying that use the fluid that Nissan recommends which is NISMO COMPETITION OIL type 2189E(75W140) 2L

Yup after 25,000 in my GTR I had the same death rattle. Be careful I didn't notice and was boosting around (music going) for an afternoon and that was enough to bend the crank (ruin the journal) and crack the block - I was running 340kw at the time I also had to recon my turbos (new -5's with 4000km on them). Head was fine though was pretty happy about that. Also had to replace oil cooler core as it could not be cleaned. good luck.

When I had my engine built I looked at ACL but heard of some issues with them to. Went Nismo but Im not running the numbers above.

Will let you know when i upgrade my injectors and see if it can push to over 400kw

Nismo coppermix twin plate

I have one. But mine is a 3.5" JASMA and I made 383Kw at all 4. Brilliant exhaust. and to top off its legal meaning no attention from the coppers. I also have a 3.5" front pip and dump pipes and a whole raft of other mods

245's fit came with on my GTR rims when I got my GTR. Looked fine but speedo would have been out. go 225's.

Was going to say RIPS had one in Megawot. Think they have one in Megawot III.

3000km in a year. I did 3000 km in 2 weeks in my GTR over summer. Sorry off topic.

Oh yup similar looking results to what I got just bait higher because of the ethanol. I might stick with the -5's until i upgrade my injectors/gearbox and then go with a 8374 1.05 A/R as my bottom end has been built to withstand hell. and I hear you about popping the standard box. Why I haven't run mine yet.

Could I please have a look at those graphs? Be really interested!

Mine was driven for 2000km - nothing over 5000rpm on highway and NZ open roads (which are not straight). Put it on the dyno gave it boost and absolutely no blow by. All in the engineering job I say. And I am glad this thread came up I was thinking of upgrading to a single BW turbo (ditching the -5's). Might be a good idea.

I would look at -7 or -9's. I thought about doing the same upgrade (N1) but didn't seem to be worth it in the end.

No I am thinking this maybe a silly question as there are so many components in the front but mine has developed a squeak at times. Seems to be when it has been sitting for awhile as when you start to drive it after awhile it comes right. I think it is the front rose joint or a dry bush. Any other things it could be? Using Tien adjustables - they are the older style about 3 years old. They have been checked recently and are not leaking (but that could have changed).

Yeah sorry about the story change was just exhausted after a massive day while hungover.

ok cool I will find one and replace see how i go. Thanks for the help

Oh I apologize I was really exhausted yesterday and didn't explain that it is just the left head light with this fault.

Hello, I had my headlight go out so I just assumed it was the globe so I replaced it. This didn't work so I start doing some trouble shooting. Here is what I have so far. 1) Park light works 2) Indicator works 3) Flash high beam works 4) Lights on dip doesnt work 5) Lights on high beam doesnt work So I checked that i was getting 12v to the head light connection and i was but as soon as I complete the circuit with the bulb the 12v stops coming in. Then when I was driving home my light came on and worked from for awhile but was turning on and off. Fuses look fine but I am not sure about the relay. But if it was the relay then both would have the issue. Anyone have some ideas?

Sorry just looked it up again and i had it wrong. ^^

Yeah that is one thing i have to say is it does lower the ground clearance a little. my car doesn't sit stupidly low so its ok but that is a good point if your a drifter or something with a car that sits on the sills then you could have an issue if you hit something solid haha.

Will use Dynamat for sound deadening but I didn't at this stage. Just mounted them in nicely. Sound AMAZING!

Correct from in 1992 they had a full drive collar. Does not mean by any stretch of the imagination that the old oils pumps won't fail. I had a failure which dropped a bearing. 20+ year old super cars needs attention and love

Engine out - rebuild. I focused on fixing any oil issues. 1) Tomei pump (heard Nitto are good to) 2) Extended sump 3) Baffles 4) Restrictors I have -5's. They have more lag than the stock turbos but not worried they are heaps of fun with 370kw atw.

I have a trust sump extension no clearance issues on a R32. Looks and fits beautifully. Nothing wrong with it. Would recommend. I have also heard the racefab ones a very good as well.