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Everything posted by Sinista32
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True. Write a list from this thread and the other. Easiest and cheapest stuff up until harder and more expensive stuff and then just cross it out as you go. Report back
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dyno will just tell you it is underpowered. Compression test a definite to check health of cylinders - but does not tell you about spark Ignitor first - as easiest to check and I believe you have already said you've done the plugs, coilpacks, loom etc... Need to make sure you have spark to each cylinder. As ghost said if you pull your plugs you will see that one is not like the others. That's the likely culprit causing the WRX sound and backfire.
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A car backfires because unburned fuel is getting to the muffler A backfire can be caused by incorrect timing of the spark (ignitor) or bad Tune as it's a balance of Air and Fuel Leaking gaskets, seals, rings as this keeps the gasses in and the air out
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This made me laugh (twice) how lucky can you be http://www.9news.com.au/world/2015/01/03/11/50/rocket-hits-family-watching-fireworks-from-balcony and this one http://www.9news.com.au/national/2015/01/02/16/06/nsw-cyclists-dramatic-roadside-stack yes I'm one of those people that dislike and or despise mamil cyclists
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To hard to be certain with a single cylinder If you had 2 side by side with low compression most likely. With a single cylinder could be valves or rings. To me it sounds more likely one piston is not firing. Get onto checking the ignitor and doing the compression test
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So True ^ disconnect speedo cable
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Fuel pump, fuel reg ? Edit: Also run a fuel cleaning system additive like Liqui-moly through it.
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Cheapest you will find http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-transistor-ignition-unit-ptu-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts-gts25-gts4-gtst-r33-gtr-p-717.html $500 Just get a mate to come around with one and spend 5 minutes swapping it over. Take your car for a 30 minute run If it doesn't play up order one These Skylines all use the same R32 GTR / GTS / GTS25 / GTS-4 / GTS-t & R33 GTR Speak with Andrew at Kudos as there is a cheaper alternative as well http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-transistor-ignition-unit-ptu-nissan-300zx-z32-091993-skyline-r33-gts4-gts25-gtst-series-rb25de-rb25det-p-1298.html needs a little bit of a change in the wiring but is more reliable/long lasting $330
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they look good Des Maybe remove the "Lansi" badge? and give the boot a good cut n polish, wax. Looks a bit dull in that picture Prefer the colour of the plate on the front to the one on the back
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Test the ignitor with a known good one
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Your right. Does seem that not all models have that resistor. What's your injector loom and ignitor plugged into?
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The brown connector off the Power Steering reservoir plug wiring attaches to another that runs to the cap on the PW reservoir (PS warning light I'd suggest)
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Other things up the front that use connectors A/C and AC sensors Fog lights Horns I'll have a better look tomorrow
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In Picture 1 and 2 you seem to be missing a resistor which attaches to the body. Two of those plugs connect to it and a third which splices off it is not used. Sort of like the Low impedance resistor for the injectors on the RB26
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Green cable looks like the one connected to the ignition barrel. The one off it could be for the Ring that lights up the barrel ? The one near the fuse box is that for consult ?
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Goodonya mate If it was me I'd do a side by side if you can. Wouldn't take real long. Having said that I'll have a look at mine sometime tomoz and see if I can shed some light or take some similar pics
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Fuark Maaate - good luck. Shoulda kept walking and kept your money. Grab someone who has a 32 GTS-t and experience to help spend time sorting it. Park side by side Who ever did that mess should of labelled when pulling plugs n cables etc... Rusty as. Good experience tho Ps. Some plugs don't have a mate
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that's^very true too.
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Compression test first. Identify variances across the cylinders. You may pinpoint it down to one cylinder. If it's 2 with a low reading could be head gasket Leak down test will further Identify in more detail the specific issue in the cylinder/cylinders Head, rings, valves. Depends where the air is escaping. Exhaust, PCV or head. The % low reading may also indicate valves. Id let someone who knows what their doing. Can be time consuming. It costs a bit more and takes a bit longer. Some shops will avoid like the plague as they don't know what they're doing or don't have the tools/experience. Many on here can do it tho. Edit: Where I've heard the WRX sound has normally been a single cylinder not firing.
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Pm sent. Mine have been on for 2 years and I have no worries about that. Couldn't get them off if I wanted to. Would have to take the rim off and use a fair amount of force from behind.
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Should call him. Can't see this one hanging around for too long.
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Yeah mate it is
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These may help. Hope they turn out