AlexCim

jas/slo32 - lol...

T88 and NOS to spool it up

btw, search "GTR+din" in the stagea forum and you will a few topics on this before, its been covered a couple of times.

madaz, howd you go about getting a turbo 25 4wd 33? turboed the N/A or conversion? what ECU?

attessa split comes off the ecu on a wire that tells the system how much to split, not sure what pin, someone else (brad) will know. boost you need to take off the MAP sensor, which, you are lucky because the S2 has and S1 doesnt. Look in the EBC thread it will be in there what pin it is, i think 52 or so. Volts, pretty simple one there. Not sure how it will fit as far as being DIN sized goes through, due to those like, metal bits on the side. I would have bought an S2 RS4S gauge DIN from yahoo.

fuel pump is my guess i got it too, was fine. doesnt do it with the 040 though?

is this on an rb20 or rb25, if its an rb20...well, thats simple

unfortunatly, ill always want to go manual. i know how to drive an auto hard, trust me, but there is just something about a manual that does it for me. i guess it could be that i can just cruise a long, 2nd gear, revs and pop cluch and out it comes! i also find the manual is less hard on the brakes due to engine braking being more useful. anyway, not to take away from the auto. for a 99% daily and 1% fun car, an auto is great! (too bad i seriously injured mine )

muck, are you converting to s2? i see s2 tail lights, and i presume you are getting a face lift too given you need indicators. now there can be two of us sneaky s1.5's going around!

i love s2 dayz, ELITE kit

id go rb25 turbo

capless r34 gtt wheels are tough

Unopened to me - Nothing changed that isnt BOLT ON. This means that the dynamics of the engine have not been changed, aka, no REAL (to me) mods have been done to the car. To me, bolt on is anything before the inlet side of the engine and after the exhaust outlet (side of block). So the head is part of the "engine" in my view and if it is touched it has been opened.

a blown vg30 turbo is worth 150-200 imo too! i paid 150 delivered for a blown r33 turbo. now just budget 1750 for a rebuild brendan...... **or buy my highflow which is RTR**

yours.....

160awkw with coilpacks shitting themselves above 4,000rpm 14.2@100mph in a S1 stagea GCG high flow @ 14psi with no tune GTR FMIC Full exhaust, split dump/front, catco cat, fuji catback 040 fuel pump Pipercross air filter

well, its wide.

for anything "sticky" spend some extra cash and get 3M. They ARE the best, full stop

LOL the DAY i got my stagea i removed its turbo timer. a turbo timer is a waste of cash unless you have a bush bearing turbo, in which case just hope you never stall when the car is HOT! turbo timers are a waste of cash, useless with todays oils and bb turbos.

guys, note how he said "I WAS GIVEN".....

mine didnt hit r&r until about 160awkw with the gcg highflow and 14psi maybe i have something with a chip in it or something?

yeh mate, lol, magnets next to electronics isnt a good idea. its called uhh, elecromagetics someone put a big sub next to your TV and see what it does. BUT, i dont think it has an affect on LCD's but i am sure the rest of the electrics cant be 100% happy?

simple guys, stiffen up the rear car suspension, weld the tailer onto the car via a ball joint from the a pillar, put rubber around the car/trailer to stop rain and you have one of those bending buses

all rb's are "drop ins" for all other rbs as they all use the same engine mounts (as far as i know) but then you need to sort the electrics etc....but the 4wd side of things.

I agree with Busky2k here. The intake pipe and the air filter are the same in diameter, so how you can say that the intake pipe is restrictive when it is ... well.. just a pipe. The only reason i see it crushing in on itself is because you are reaching such high flow levels that even the best filters become restrictive, at which point you need to get a hardpipe so that the air is FORCED to be sucked into the engine.