AlexCim

i thought australia was in surplus no deficit?? what happen?

hmmm I think i might do this too At this point, looks like my current stagea will become my run-a-bout and ill get a 260rs as a fun car. I just will loose too much on the current one if ill sell it and cant go past the auto and towbar for towing.... a trailer....that is half a stagea.

PFC is 950+400 for a tune....

MY GOD that looks AWESOME though!

i use donnellens for tyres, but dont use them for alignments i use computalign in nunawading for alignments/suspension work i use revzone in nunawading for mechanical work, but if i was doing any tuning on an rb26 id use racepace

id imagine r33 gtr, best if someone with fast checked it got your VIN?

strikes are based on the driver, not the car. they dont reset, when you get to three you are the final straw for three years. AKA, my car has just been auctioned off and i do it again, 2nd car immediatly auctioned off. i find it f**ked that only 15 people have died because of street racing since 1997 yet they are confiscating our cars. as to the guy that said they would know your rego, you ever heard of a fake identity (aka, the whole lot inc birth extract, bank accounts, address etc). If i KNOW i am going to be caught thats only a small effort to go to in my books

mate, just weld the plastic together with a soldering iron. tac weld it all around then fill in all the gaps. go into the stagea forum, the stick called DIY/FYI, then "The Intercooler Thread" and you'll see what i did

i thought we were talking about the ones IN the front bar at the front?

Considering I started that thread, ill say its a peice of piss to do it man. just takes a bit of time thats all.

Mint - Nice choice on a turbo set up. Heard they are very responsive. Let us know the results for sure

i think mounting wise they would be the same, i dont see why they would have changed the mounting brackets. the onyl difference i see is the twin tips being an issue as the rear bar is moulded for a single tip.

I think someone here said it drinks about 10-12L I THINK he said you leave it running in N and the pump just pumps all the fluid out then you replace it. I drained my sump and got about 2L out but that isnt all of it ive heard.

Hot exhaust gasses and cold exhausts causes the condensation of water and production of some steam. Its perfectly normal. The only time you worry is if you get that white smoke ALL the time. Then its your head. When you change muffers/exhausts they are coated in manufacturing chemicals which neeed to be burnt off. This can cause smoke/smelling for a few days until its all melt/burnt off.

turbos are rated at the fly wheel, not at the wheels. a 450hp turbo will max out at ~250rwkw, which is what the GCG does.

You had a VL turbo. Did you get sick of it quick? I can get an 11 second VL for about 9k, not sure if i should bother to go the VL route.

get some metal zip ties, any good car shop (bursons) should be able to supply you with some. They are pretty expensive though. Start wrapping from the top down, overlap each turn maybe 1/2 to 1/4 and any joints overlap a bit too. If you are using it for protection, id put more metal zip ties.

Buddy Club P1's. As far as I know they are in a pretty big offset too

This has been talked about in the "Forced Induction" forum before. But heres the big question, even before I read FLYSLY's reply. Why do you want to make a heavy, slow car, heavier and slower?

this sk said he had the stock pipe crushing itself around 250rwkw on a gtt.... i personally wouldnt bother until reaching that sort of power.

I dont think you understood what I said. I said id wrap an exhaust manifold, but the stocks are ment to be good for 300awkw anyway. Exhaust system goes as such Chamber -> Exhaust Manifold -> Turbo -> Dump pipe -> Front pipe -> Cat -> Catback As far as wrapping a front pipe, well, let me put it to you this way. When I made my turbo/manifold glow, it was glowing bright red, but the dump pipe was not glowing at all. This suggests that most of the heat is in the turbo/exhaust manifold, meaning it makes sense to wrap these things and not the front. Protection? Mate, if you sratch a steel pipe, it doesnt affect performance. Its not like 2mm of fabric would protect it anyway if you were doing decent damage anyway (aka, hitting a rock or something)

jasevr4 - Im 19.... stasis - i will buy when I am ready, at the moment it is more important for me invest money in myself and setup my business well and true. I have big goal and these big goals will pay off very big time.

I wouldnt bother to wrap a front pipe or dump pipe, but I would wrap a exhaust manifold (but stocks are good for 300awkw anyway so.....) just me ive learnt there is a lot of stuff that just isnt worth the money.

see jasevr4, i WOULD consider buying it. The 10k saving over a good condition stocker is a big saving to me, justifing a rebuild/work on it. But thats because i WOULD rebuild/work my stagea anyway, if it was good condition or not. The only reason I wouldnt buy that car is if I WASNT planning to do any work on it. For example, just buy it and drive around as is. I guess right now i am in the position to be able to afford to buy any bargain that came my way just because I already have 2 cars (Camry and current stagea) so if i bought a third, it wouldnt bother me for it to be off the road for a month more getting a rebuild. It depends what your budget/goal is. I am trying to find one with a blown engine or something terminal like that, but not sure if that could get through SEVS

sounds like you are going to buy it.