Godzilla32

Me too, but i bet if you check coils/plugs etc you will find its misfiring and when it does this you loose power then get it back and it feels asthough its 'lunging' Check your coils for hairline cracks and signs of arcing. If your not sure how to do that get a mechanic to. They will instantly be able to tell you if its misfiring with a drive of it. Deren

Don't you mean voltage? If thats teh case a healthy alternator should be making around 13.8-14.5 volts Check off the back of your alternator not accross the battery terminals

Maybe its skinier but narrower? Ryco are leaders in filter technology and make some of the best because of it. Still a regular oil change is the best way to stay out of trouble I once read on here someone trying to say that oil doesnt start working for awhile after you do the change so dropping it every 5,000 is too often! LMAO

Whats your oil level like? On a flat ground make sure you got it full otherwise being on a unlevel ground will starve the pickup..

Low pressure is the killer of engines. With not enough oil pressure between bearing surfaces etc they begin to touch and wear on each other.

Of course its gunna feel crappy! Its not working properly... Thats what a warning light is trying to tell you

The right battery will be listed in the suppliers catalogue. There a number of things to look out for..Terminal size, battery case size, battery capacity (CCA-Cold cranking amps), Style of fitting, etc...So it is important you get the right one... Your paying good money for it so why not choose carefully and be happy with it?

When the oil is cold its thicker = more pressure, as it warms up you get thinner oil and slightly lower pressure (at low revs anyway)

if you can imagine having another steering rack or the rear, like you have on the front but smaller, and turning the wheels like the one does on the front but much less, only a degree or 2 thats how hicas works. When you opt for a lock bar you completely remove the rear power steer rack and put a hollow tube (HICAS lock bar) into its place to permanantly lock the wheels in a set position IE: however much toe you want on the rear.

Yes your right it will lock the read end to a constant setting instead of the rack controlling it or falling apart or both.. If its just a matter of bolting the rack up properly or something silly like that then by all means fix it up but it sounds like it could be more than that so the cheapest fix is probably going to be the lock bar.

Kool, yeah i already had my head rebuilt in Melbourne but once i had it off i wasent sure if i was happy with exhaust guide clearances so i sent it back to get new guides again to tighter spec.

Thanks Ron! My block etc is/has been over at JHH Engineering for months now. I have put it on hold as now that im detailing restoring the underside of the car aswell its taken up all my money! I can only work on one area at a time in most cases. Jim berry has had my clutch sitting at his workshop for months too now because i simply ran outta money to pick it up! Probably hates my guts by now but i will pick it up b4 too much longer. Anyway i need the clutch before the engine can be finished the machine work. The clutch, flywheel and crank will all be balanced together as well as everything else to zero grams. The block has been decked and bored to take 20 thou OS ACL forged pistons, im also using ACL heat treated main and big end race bearings, custom oil pump collar, oil restrictor, custom sump baffle. The oil returns will be opened up too. Cant think if ive forgotton anything...Also bought a new water pump but will stick with my original oil pump as its all within spec. Deren

They are actually 418cc

With a stock air box and the complete resonator box with extra sections you shouldnt hear the recirculation/bov noise at all. I didnt on my gtr anyway. If you just have the air box and no resonator box you get a very brief 'dou'..'dou' IE: the begining of a compressor surge noise..

It may have been slightly bent and out of line and not adjusted correctly. You can buy then easily from import wreckers or you can get a new one from nissan. Deren

If you get hot air when you have the vent open to outside its probably the heater core tap getting stuck open. Mine used to blow hot air at me when i was on the freeway and id stand on it for a few seconds. Probably the increase in water flow thru the core pushing the tap open...

The lock bar replaces the rear end steering rack. Basically when you remove the rear rack you are just setting a constant toe adjustment instead of the rack making minor changes during driving. It should be fine to drive without HICAS. From what i saw ages ago on my car, when your in diagnostics mode and its telling you the codes it flashes fast and slow depending on the code its giving you. As in light completely on and light completely out. Try fllowing those instructions again closely and see how you go. I may be able to give you a had if you are in brissy? Deren

PRICE DROP Guard: $100 ONO Door: $50 ONO Deren

Thanks for that, i'll remember that if i ever have that kind of problem.

Why did he do something you didnt request? If i ever let someone touch my car other than myself , id be quite annoyed if they changed something that i didnt ask to be changed. High idle could be due to a vacuum leak.

Id change it ASAP for a gear oil... ATF is very thin compared to gear oil.

Like i just said my car is 13.0 - 1/4 stock as a rock...and its 17 years old!

I always kinda did like the idea of maybe oneday having a XR6-T as a family car along with the GTR for the weekender/track car. Still... bog stock GTR = 13 flat 1/4 ...Can't complain there.

i have a spare i think. if your interested PM me

Yeah that too! Always helps