Godzilla32

Im also pretty 'paranoid' as you put it, but you gotta draw a line and work out whats worth spending the extra money on. Still id hardly say 'his shit is whak', i think he is doing an awesome job. It takes a lot of commitment to go thru with such a large scale project. I think far too many import owners are only interested in making their cars faster. For me its about owning a legendary sports car that was probably one of the biggest advances in automotive technology at the time. So thats why i want to have a perfect example to show off. I think people forget how great the car is already and add things to them that arent even necessary. Nissan like other manufacturers go to massive expense to perfect these cars and in some cases guys go adding/changing things that actually make them worse. However don't get me wrong, I love to modify my cars, but i choose to do it carefully and i wont change something for an aftermarket equvilent in hope that its the part thats even causing the problem in the first place. I think thats just stupid and a waste of money. OK i got carried away there but thats my feelings toward the subject. Deren

When i removed mine i was under the impression that you had to remove the transmission first. Thats what the manual said anyhow. There are a few things that can catch you out like the right side front cv shaft and how you have to push it out from inside the front diff... Good luck Deren

Hey mate, Yeah it looks a hell of a lot cleaner now though...Prolly just post a pic of what it all looks like when the subframe is ready to go back in all shiney, new and complete. I made a decision to hold off on most of the bushes. I will use pineapples and replace sway bar d-rubbers and link pin bushes. Everything is coming up real nice, most with a new coat of appropriate paint. While its out i will also give the underbody a new coat of stone guard. Fuel tank has to come out for a quick clean down too. Then its up to the front for a similar job Deren

I have that as standard on my car for the stock gauge. Surely you can just run it from the original sender (providing its accurate). Dont all RB's have a similar sender unit for the stock gauge? Either that or remove the (possibly dodgy) original sender and fit the new sender into the original location. if need be you can splice the original gauge in with the new ones wire so both work...

Not sure about r33 but most are the same..Just grip it firmly and pull on it. If that fails then like blind elk said just remove the wheel and tap it out from the inside. To paint make sure its free of loose/flaking paint, and smooth...if you like you can use a plastic primer but im sure if the surface is smooth you can just give it a hit with a can of paint. Any decent spray paint will do the job.

Just thought id remind you guys its extrememly bad to apply wet grease to anything inside the bellhousing as it can and will find its way onto your prssure plate/drive plate/flywheel eventually. Better to use a dry lubricant like graphite powder.

You could get someone to stand on the brakes..I use a rattle gun at work so its not an issue there but when i did it at home how did i do it...? Try putting an old screw driver in the middle of the rotor (vented slots) and lock it up against the brake caliper so it wont turn while u undo it...You will need a breaker bar with a large pole on the handle to give you enough leverage to undo it.

Positive. I did a reboot on a camry today actually. Pity i couldnt get some fotos on a rough guide of how to do it. Boss wouldnt like that very much... Hehe

Is it an electronic or mechanical gauge?

Once you have the joint removed, cleaned of old grease and dried out you fill it full of grease before you knock it back onto the shaft. Then you pull the boot into place (it should already be on the shaft but pushed back a little so u have room to work) and secure it with the boot bands supplied. I honestly think it would be best to get it profesionally done if your unsure. I paid $90 bucks for mine to be done when i was still clueless at a driveshaft specialist. This included the parts too but i guess they werent genuine.

Anyone had previous good experience with a workshop in melbourne? After an exchange box if possible for an S13 SR20DET silvia. Mates car.. Any help would be much appreciated Deren

Cheers for the help guys. I'll look into this group buy. I wont want much for the rear bar...Make an offer i guess. It looks nice now all painted up in satin finish.

You shouldnt need a new hub you can normally just knock out the old cone bearings. Check for pitting and damge to the rollers. Im not sure of the torque setting but you can do it by feel. First do it up over tight to bed it in then back it off and re-nip it up so it firm but not over tight. Best to get a trained mechanic to do this as you dont want it coming off while you driving!

Sounds about right from memory They are nice enough to have it in a tube too, so u can just squeeze it out.

Ok thanks for the help mate, i appreciate it! So you suggest replacing both front and rear? Do you know what they are worth? Best place to buy them from? Anyone want a GTR rear sway bar? Hehe, its already detailed up in satin black.

Yeah the spring size is wat i was worried about. The rears look nearly the same but im yet to measure it up side by side..Think the stock fronts are a tappered spring tho...

It doesnt take long to do only about 30-45 mins for a pair which includes r&r. Going on $80 /hour labour it shouldnt cost too much. Im not sure if they charge you for the serive too..Probably do. I only do the work i dont know what the boss charges unfortunately. You also have to make sure the dics are not undersize. If they are you will have to replace them. Fronts have 30mm min. from memory, rear 16mm min. I just realised you probably dont kwn a 32GTR. The specs i stated regarding scrap thickness are for that car. Thought you were someone else.

Yeah you need a 36mm socket to remove the drive shaft nut. Use something like kero or solvent to clean out the cv joint. You will have to remove the joint before you can do this tho. You need to be able to get the new boot on.

Stands for thermistor valve, it vaporises the liquid in the system making it extra cold as it passes thru the evaporator. A tiny spec of anything can block it and then the system wont function.

My work carries them which is an Authorised Repco Service centre. But im sure you can look them up in the whitepages etc i'll go get the part now and give you the part number if you like?

As you may have read im currently rebuilding my GTR at the moment ground up and one of the things i recently replaced was the receiver dryer. I found that an aftermarket nippon receiver dryer was only $25 and fitted up fine. i will most likely look at servicing/rebuilding the compressor at some stage i've been told new ones are worth around 900-1000 but a rebuild/service may only be 300 Forgot to add that it could be the TX valve. They are $50 to replace with an aftermarket item (i also did this). So just to guid you to how much these items cost. The Nissan genuine item was $146+ for the TX valve

If its a wheel balance issue it would do it all the time at speeds 80+km/h even without brake application. If it only does it when you brake then its most likely brake problem. Ive also heard of worn castor rod bushes causing this but im not sure if it applies to the skylines. You dont need to balance the wheels unless: You rotate them Have new tyres fitted Feel a vibration like i described You only need a wheel allignment if: You have uneven tyre wear. Notice the car pulls to one way when your on a flat uncambered road with your hands off the wheel. The steering wheel is not straight. Good luck, Deren

Have to be careful not to spray it all over the clutch plate..Any liquid lubricant isnt good for a clutch.. Id have to say its got somthing to do with you throwout/thrust bearing.. A worn bearing can make some pretty strange noises. Either that or is a bearing in the gearbox..

As soon as the idea to hold the door first before touching the ground was brought up i would have said ok thats the fix...

Hey everyone, do the stock upper mounts fit the Apexi N1 dampers front and rear on the R32 GTR? The rears look like they will but im not sure about the front. Anyone know for sure? Cheers, Deren