cowie165

Ed if you're after opinions... As you've said you're not holding onto the car much longer - I can almost guarantee any money spent on repairing will not be recovered in the sale. I'd leave it there and the buyer can factor in what they'd like to do. You could remind them that GT-R rear quarters are around $550 each from Mr Nissan... they're actually cheaper than Toyota Echo guards

You're right, KH2 is the colour. Your car should be gunmetal grey. and 1993 is actually H5, bigsully84 doubled-up on 1989. If you're bored, click here for Wikipedia info on the Heisei year system.

I thought 40th anniversary cars were R33 GTS25ts that were produced in 97/98? ... however I'd happily be corrected!

If you have the dash still attached: the earlier R32s have smooth plastic around the stereo/climate control/gearshift plus a smooth ashtray; later R32s have 'rippled' plastic that looks more like the dashboard finish.

Successful operation on HP548. HP ActiveSync -> null modem -> Newkleer DIY interface -> ECU. I felt that the display was much laggier than I am used to seeing on the P4 laptop. Then I read your PPC 'Known Issues' and I may have selected 6 or 7 bytes of data. That said, when only AFM and AFM(RH) were selected it did not refresh as fast as I would like. Price you pay for a 133MHz PDA Peter the only other issue encountered was that the number of sensors available (R32 GTR) ran off the page and I was unable to scroll down to select. I am very grateful for the time and effort you've put in to ECUTalk, hats off! Perhaps a nice Ipaq 4700 would do the trick I take my PDA everywhere I go so it is much handier than lugging the laptop and having it loose on the passenger seat. Cheers, Mark and the AFM problem was dry joints inside the meter itself.

Werd, albeit a good tyre for the price. I'd like to try K104s too. On my R32 the 595s lockup before ABS engages. Without meaning to be rude, a search would probably find a thread from a few months ago discussing these very tyres

For what it's worth, I had a similar problem a few weeks back, which is why I suggested the immobiliser may be the culprit. My headlight switch burnt out and they would not switch off. I disconnected the battery and went to bed. When I went to start the next morning - nothing. Dash lights came on, but as soon as I switched the ignition to start, EVERYTHING died. Would not start. Although the battery tested at 12.3V, because the lights would not switch off, they drew enough load that only 8-9V was available for ignition. This tripped the immobiliser relay and it interrupted the start and isolated all electrics. The alarm installer came around and we started it with a booster pack (thanks Allen!). I've mentioned this just in case you've knocked something (I'm searchin' here...) behind the dash and lights or some other voltage sponge has interfered. :shrugs shoulders:

Before you go blazing away with WD40, have a quick read of http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115172

Not that my comment is terribly helpful, but I remember reading that swapping for a newer engine is fine. It would be a problem if you were to go back to a S4 13B, for example. Best contact DOTARs.

I have been driving my 89 model (stock turbos - 12psi, exhaust) for 18 months now. No dramas. No spontaneous explosions. Rebuild free. Which is a good thing as I couldn't afford to fix a motor right now Listen to Topaz - have it tested. Compression test plus leak-down should cost around $100ish.

Jim if you have an immobiliser it may be interfering and thinking you're trying to steal the car. As it's a GTR I'm assuming you have one - did you happen to unplug it? btw have to say I'm envious of the man that has an R33 GTR and a TL1000R in his garage Zoom zoom.

Pics are doing the same at the moment.

For info, 89/90 models were not available in white (read: respray). Not that a respray is necessarily a bad thing, but worth being aware of. My car is an 89. As good as stock. 65L(ish) provides around 450km. I am grateful I don't have to drive mine daily - you appreciate it more plus as they are old cars the little stuff may piss you off. I have a 'to do' list in my garage Speaking from own experience only. General repairs cost the same as most other cars. Tuning and replacing go-fast bits are the expensive parts. You can't tell a good buy until you look at it, listen to it, test the motor (as Munna1 advised) and then drive it. My advice would be to keep the later models in mind as well. Check out an 89 and a 94 model just to see what the difference in condition is like. Hope this helps mate.

Thanks Duncan (again!)

Sorry mate, I was in a rush and I apologise if I sounded a little aggressive. It's a bummer the thread didn't help out - I stopped reading at page four...

My idle is the same. I suspect the car previously ran an aftermarket ECU but was returned to stock on export. Do you guys both have stock ECUs? What I'm getting at is could the switch back to stock reset the idle to a safe default of ~1200rpm and then it should be adjusted using the trim pot on the ECU? I have just exchanged AFMs for two working units and the consult display indicates they are operating normally. My AAC valve reads a constant 2%? Is that normal? My TPS is around 0.44V at idle. I'll double check that TPS but pretty sure that's what it read this morning on the way to work. I'm keen to sort this out too.

Dude search for threads created by Boostmeister from a few years ago. There is a fairly huge thread about grounding issues with fuel pumps - should point you in the right direction. In a hurry otherwise I'd grab the link for you

Yep, I think I'll use contact cleaner in future. Right tools for the job and all...

As an aside Stan, six years ago the 'accepted' means to clean your AFM was to remove the mesh and get stuck in with a cotton-bud and some metho And I've used the jet-line BrakeKleen three times now, all good.

Thanks Duncan. If I'm only testing compression twice a year plus a few family cars, can I get away with a SuperCrap Auto one? I imagine a cheap one will not come with a calibration certificate - is it worth it or just take the car to the mechanic?

Cheers Chris, I've just replaced my headlight switch so perhaps I should give my clock another go. I did a search on clocks and turned up this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=3723&hl=clock# The author mentions something about the power for the clock running from the headunit power? My headunit is aftermarket. What about you Matt and Steve? Food for thought, hopefully have time to have a look tomorrow.

I am doing the same thing, however when I fitted the LEDs today, only two of the six illuminated. When I connected 12V to one of the non-working LEDs, the circuit appeared completed and the same two lit up again? Any ideas on what I might have done wrong or should I pull the front off the climate control and check inside? All LEDs were tested prior to purchase. Any advice please SAUers? Cheers

wrxhoon is selling an R33 RB26 crank right now. Check for sale section or send him a PM.

Please excuse the stupid question, but the instructions say to: "Disable ignition module or coil" As I understand it, you remove the coil and sparkplug for the cylinder to be tested, but you also need to unplug the ignitor to prevent engine start. Is this right? Thanks