cowie165

Thanks Richard for your reply and thanks Stephen for your pointers! Hey what is arimasu? And yep, that's what I wanted to write... whilst I can manage a few spoken sentences, my romanji is lousy. Not that that's a bad thing! At the moment I'm an illiterate Japanese student, lol I thought it'd be most polite to point out how good I am at Japanese

Not the Bentley, but the Volvo

Good stuff Angus. The way around it (even though you've already fixed it) is to hold down the V (cold/temp down) button for 5 secs. The display will flash 'FC' and it will override the ambient temp sensor and pump full cold.

Hey Ben. Dude if you post your original VIN I can use FAST to see if they are the same part number. That said, R32 and R33 RB26s have a separate ignitor unit. R34 RB26 has inbuilt ignitors. HTH

Bummer about the car, good for you that you're moving. I drive Blaxland -> Richmond each day so I understand where you're coming from. The windy parts down the mountain are brilliant fun but the 18L/100km RB26 sent me out for a 6.5L/100km 4A-FE! Do you know of any Western Sydney/Blue Mountains restaurants that you'd go back to please?

Hey Sam are you out at Richmond for good? Just wondering cause I work there and see a lot of R32s around. Haven't seen your car for a while though.

Hey Richard would you say resutoran Kyushu wa Grosvenor dori desu? watashimo Nihongo ga yoku desu ne ... we'll see...

Hey Adam I have a pair of Draggin Jeans I'm hoping to offload if you're interested. They're size 34 iirc, in the olive drab colour with cargo pockets. I'm 6'1" and they fit nicely. My oldies are in the Shire and we visit every few weeks or so. Shoot over a pm if you're keen. Cheers dude.

I used Holts Duplicolor over a year ago and they still look schmick. I'll see if I can sort a few pics this afternoon after work. Try searching SAU for a thread called "painting your calipers" or something like that. It was a three pager from 2004/05 with plenty of pics too.

I have an 89 model that is on the original clutch, gearbox, motor and turbos. It has never missed a beat in two years. The entire compulsory maintenance history for me is: new clock (this month) new battery terminals (last month) aircon regas (last year) front/rear pads (Jan 06) front/rear rotors (Jan 06) gearbox reverse lockout spring (Dec 05) sill panels (after forklifted in Japan)(Jun 05) Everything else has been fluids or buying newer (better condition) parts like OEM steering wheel etc. I have spent more on my 626 than on the GTR. So, I disagree dude.

Tomek if you're RAAF (ie. Richmond/Western Sydney) there are a few guys that could help out. I have a GTR and used to ride sports bikes. Shoot over a PM with your details and we might be able to work something out. We can also talk running costs etc. Cheers Mark

G'day Steve. I've used both and my money goes to the oil based. My opinion is due to: 1. Oil based filtration is more effective (but can't remember the study that proved it ) 2. Cleaning an AFM is a piece of cake and would only be necessary if you dipped you panel filter in olive oil. The K&N filters are soaked but in my experience the amount of oil the separates from the filter and goes to the AFM is negligible. Just to confirm, the oil will not damage the AFM. Worst case scenario is there would be an oil build-up on the hotwire sensor (the part in the airflow) which may interfere with the AFM reading -> erratic voltage output to the ECU. To fix, take out the AFM, spray with brakekleen, refit, voila. Takes maybe 10mins every six months. Cheers Mark

Sorry to cause a mixup, I thought you marked the CAS position on the cam cover, and then went and painted the cam cover. I'm still going a little cross-eyed over this one as I can't see any marking on the CAS like on adjustable cam gears. Perhaps I'd better take another look.

This has me stumped. How do you mark it if you are going to paint it? (I'm not being a smartarse I'm just keen to learn as I'd like to paint mine too)

Suspension sold. Foglights reduced to $20. RB26 dump pipes reduced to $50.

Yeah the GTR badge question was tongue in cheek, prompted by seeing an R33 GTSt with a GTR badge when I drove through Tamworth last week. I have a spare GTR badge - I've been thinking about putting it on my old Corolla. and siddr20 you probably only saw a 50rwkw gain because you didn't fit a VTEC sticker in tandem. It's ok, it's a common mistake.

Buuuump

Clutch gone. Helmet gone.

I can't see the point in an ECU reset, unless it has switched itself into limp home mode. If the AFM problem is intermittent the ECU should simply accept the good AFM input and drive normally. I'm going on what I saw on consult when my car had a dodgy AFM but it is an RB26 so it has two. If it behaves differently on RBs with only one AFM, I'll be happily corrected!

Nicely done RZ.

I have a GTR badge for sale if you wanted to upgrade. TIC

Wax and grease remover may do it. If you soak a rag in the liquid then see about soaking the sticker. With a few applications and around 20mins it should soften enough to be pulled off. The citrus stuff might go ok but the grease remover is designed to be used on paintwork.

Need the moulds gone. Price reduced to $300. You can make all of that back in three sales.

Twin-plate available due to no-show, no-contact buyer. Suspension reduced to $400, time to go.